Coloring lettering white

[chevyman097 2,579]

Before anyone tells me to search for it, I have. I cannot remember the title so the search isnt working very well. But there was a thread about bringing out the lettering on saigas with white crayons/markers etc.

 

Anyone able to find it or just tell me how to do this. Id like to give it a shot, I remember it looked really nice on some of the rifles people did this one.

[Reverendfranz 160]

Easiest is to use lacquer sticks from brownells.

Rub over, clean it up, let it dry.

You can paint them with a toothpick and model pain if you are patient, or yes, lots of people just rub a crayon over it and then clean up the non recessed portion and hit it with a hair dryer.

 

Nail polish remover, in all cases, if you fuck up.

Edited January 19, 2010 by ReverendFranz

[chevyman097 2,579]

I thought of nail polish remover and white marker/crayon but was afraid it might take the finish off the gun. WIll it be very harsh on the finish?

 

 

[vbrtrmn 167]

Brake cleaner will screw up the finish, nail polish remover is a very light concentration of acetone, probably won't mess it up.

 

I've used a china marker to do some of my C&R guns, not really a marker, it is one of those crayons which has the paper which you remove as you need it.

[chevyman097 2,579]

Brake cleaner will screw up the finish, nail polish remover is a very light concentration of acetone, probably won't mess it up.

 

I've used a china marker to do some of my C&R guns, not really a marker, it is one of those crayons which has the paper which you remove as you need it.

 

Sounds good, ill try it out with the finger nail polish remover

[Lone Star Arms 2,047]

Quick and easy: Liquid paper in the recessed areas, wipe excess off raised areas before it dries.

[vbrtrmn 167]

Brake cleaner will screw up the finish, nail polish remover is a very light concentration of acetone, probably won't mess it up.

 

I've used a china marker to do some of my C&R guns, not really a marker, it is one of those crayons which has the paper which you remove as you need it.

 

Sounds good, ill try it out with the finger nail polish remover

 

Rubbing Alcohol may also work.

[chevyman097 2,579]

Quick and easy: Liquid paper in the recessed areas, wipe excess off raised areas before it dries.

 

Never thought of that! were is my brain! +1 ill give that some thought, might try it first and see how it goes. Have you done this yourself?

[janusthephoenix 24]

Liquid Paper sounds like it would be easiest. I used a silver leafing pen, but the excess was very annoying to clean away.

[Lone Star Arms 2,047]

Quick and easy: Liquid paper in the recessed areas, wipe excess off raised areas before it dries.

 

Never thought of that! were is my brain! +1 ill give that some thought, might try it first and see how it goes. Have you done this yourself?

 

Yes. I use liquid paper for the numbers on the gas plug. You have to be fast wiping it off the raised areas. I agree that rubbing alcohol is better than acetone (finger nail polish remover), as it shouldn't damage the paint. Acetone WILL strip the factory paint off your gun!

 

If you can, find a paint that matches to touch up after you are done, or use the same paint you used to paint the gun with to touch up.

 

For the gas plug, you can just use a black sharpie marker to touch up the raised areas. Rub it a little with the tip of your finger to dull it a bit after it dries. It's actually an enamel rather than an "ink". Looks great!

 

WS

[bigsal 757]

Quick and easy: Liquid paper in the recessed areas, wipe excess off raised areas before it dries.

 

Never thought of that! were is my brain! +1 ill give that some thought, might try it first and see how it goes. Have you done this yourself?

 

Yes. I use liquid paper for the numbers on the gas plug. You have to be fast wiping it off the raised areas. I agree that rubbing alcohol is better than acetone (finger nail polish remover), as it shouldn't damage the paint. Acetone WILL strip the factory paint off your gun!

 

If you can, find a paint that matches to touch up after you are done, or use the same paint you used to paint the gun with to touch up.

 

For the gas plug, you can just use a black sharpie marker to touch up the raised areas. Rub it a little with the tip of your finger to dull it a bit after it dries. It's actually an enamel rather than an "ink". Looks great!

 

WS

 

You could do it like the above posters sugest (applying nail polish, sharpies or some other bubba'd method) OR you could use a vehicle touch up pen with a fine applicator and do it the right way.

 

PM me if you want some sites that sell it.

[Lone Star Arms 2,047]

Quick and easy: Liquid paper in the recessed areas, wipe excess off raised areas before it dries.

 

Never thought of that! were is my brain! +1 ill give that some thought, might try it first and see how it goes. Have you done this yourself?

 

Yes. I use liquid paper for the numbers on the gas plug. You have to be fast wiping it off the raised areas. I agree that rubbing alcohol is better than acetone (finger nail polish remover), as it shouldn't damage the paint. Acetone WILL strip the factory paint off your gun!

 

If you can, find a paint that matches to touch up after you are done, or use the same paint you used to paint the gun with to touch up.

 

For the gas plug, you can just use a black sharpie marker to touch up the raised areas. Rub it a little with the tip of your finger to dull it a bit after it dries. It's actually an enamel rather than an "ink". Looks great!

 

WS

 

You could do it like the above posters sugest (applying nail polish, sharpies or some other bubba'd method) OR you could use a vehicle touch up pen with a fine applicator and do it the right way.

 

PM me if you want some sites that sell it.

 

Can't make an exit without a "dis" sal? "Bubba". I'll wear that one with pride .

 

Automotive paint wands...lol. Sal... he's looking for something to use on his gun, not to break open and sniff like a trailer park popper....

 

If you want to gild the lilly, you can also use Testors enamels to touch up raised areas. It comes in a variety of different shades and glosses... and Sal, if you want you can sniff it right out of the bottle

[sunnybean 939]

Ben Franklin, or any crafts store, should have china markers/grease pens. The work great. I use them on the Gunfixr plugs to mark the 1 red and the 3 white. Unless you get it really hot it will hang in the engraving very well.

[bigsal 757]

 

Can't make an exit without a "dis" sal? "Bubba". I'll wear that one with pride .

 

Automotive paint wands...lol. Sal... he's looking for something to use on his gun, not to break open and sniff like a trailer park popper....

 

If you want to gild the lilly, you can also use Testors enamels to touch up raised areas. It comes in a variety of different shades and glosses... and Sal, if you want you can sniff it right out of the bottle. I am gay.

 

Not sure what paint you are using, but after thousands of rounds down range, my lettering remains glossy white. Make sure the paint pen says it will work on brake calipers or in the engine bay and you will be fine as far as heat goes. AGAIN: THIS IS THE EASIEST METHOD WITH THE BEST RESULTS! Maybe user error on your part Schmied...

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

There are some good suggestions in this thread to accomplish what the OP wants.. but I still don't understand why people do this.

 

Why highlight the stamped lettering? As is, it's perfectly readable to anyone examining the weapon. If I were you, I'd leave the lettering the way it came from the factory. Your rifle doesn't need any of this useless "bling".

 

To each his own, though. *shrug*

Edited January 20, 2010 by post-apocalyptic

[janusthephoenix 24]

Your rifle doesn't need any of this useless "bling".

We like shiny things...

[Lone Star Arms 2,047]

 

Can't make an exit without a "dis" sal? "Bubba". I'll wear that one with pride .

 

Automotive paint wands...lol. Sal... he's looking for something to use on his gun, not to break open and sniff like a trailer park popper....

 

If you want to gild the lilly, you can also use Testors enamels to touch up raised areas. It comes in a variety of different shades and glosses... and Sal, if you want you can sniff it right out of the bottle. I am gay.

 

Not sure what paint you are using, but after thousands of rounds down range, my lettering remains glossy white. Make sure the paint pen says it will work on brake calipers or in the engine bay and you will be fine as far as heat goes. AGAIN: THIS IS THE EASIEST METHOD WITH THE BEST RESULTS, especially with an ultra ghey pink .410 like mine! Maybe user error on your part Schmied... Excuse me, I have to go drop some acid and jerk off to my collection of Harry Reid porn before my Viagra wears off

 

No problem Sal... have fun!

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

Your rifle doesn't need any of this useless "bling".

We like shiny things...

 

Meh. I prefer Glocks, (which also don't have highlighted lettering).

Edited January 20, 2010 by post-apocalyptic

[n102788 6]

i just highlighted my stamped lettering and i think it looks pretty good. I didnt do everything just a couple of things and it suddle but nice. its like pin striping a car suddle but adds that little extra to the overall apperence.

[sunnybean 939]

 

Why highlight the stamped lettering? As is, it's perfectly readable to anyone examining the weapon. If I were you, I'd leave the lettering the way it came from the factory. Your rifle doesn't need any of this useless "bling".

 

 

It's easier/quicker for a new user to SEE the "S" (safe) that is white and the "F" (jfire) that is red. Also, to a new user that has a hard time remembering what the gas settings mean having a red "1" (hot/high brass) and a white "2" (low brass) is pretty helpful.

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

 

Why highlight the stamped lettering? As is, it's perfectly readable to anyone examining the weapon. If I were you, I'd leave the lettering the way it came from the factory. Your rifle doesn't need any of this useless "bling".

 

 

It's easier/quicker for a new user to SEE the "S" (safe) that is white and the "F" (jfire) that is red. Also, to a new user that has a hard time remembering what the gas settings mean having a red "1" (hot/high brass) and a white "2" (low brass) is pretty helpful.

 

If you say so, man. Personally, I can't imagine being so retarded that I couldn't figure out an AK safety.

[sunnybean 939]

 

Why highlight the stamped lettering? As is, it's perfectly readable to anyone examining the weapon. If I were you, I'd leave the lettering the way it came from the factory. Your rifle doesn't need any of this useless "bling".

 

 

It's easier/quicker for a new user to SEE the "S" (safe) that is white and the "F" (jfire) that is red. Also, to a new user that has a hard time remembering what the gas settings mean having a red "1" (hot/high brass) and a white "2" (low brass) is pretty helpful.

 

If you say so, man. Personally, I can't imagine being so retarded that I couldn't figure out an AK safety.

 

I realize this is an AK site, but I did not say AK safety. I am mentally deficient though.

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

 

Why highlight the stamped lettering? As is, it's perfectly readable to anyone examining the weapon. If I were you, I'd leave the lettering the way it came from the factory. Your rifle doesn't need any of this useless "bling".

 

 

It's easier/quicker for a new user to SEE the "S" (safe) that is white and the "F" (jfire) that is red. Also, to a new user that has a hard time remembering what the gas settings mean having a red "1" (hot/high brass) and a white "2" (low brass) is pretty helpful.

 

If you say so, man. Personally, I can't imagine being so retarded that I couldn't figure out an AK safety.

 

I realize this is an AK site, but I did not say AK safety. I am mentally deficient though.

 

You weren't referring to the operation of the Saiga safety lever, (same as AK safety)? Unless someone was confused by the safety, why would they need/want the "S" and "F", not only highlighted, but in different colors?

[sunnybean 939]

PA,

 

As a kid growing up shooting a Remy 870 it was real easy to see and understand that the safety was on when the white was showing and the gun was ready to fire when the red was showing.

 

My uncle, who only uses his shotgun for one weekend a year, has a hard time remembering what way his safety goes (he's a lefty and the safety on that particular gun can be reversed for lefties...so it can get confusing) and the color code really helps.

 

HK paints their safety the same way (red/white). Many ARs are done in the same way....its pretty universal.

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

PA,

 

As a kid growing up shooting a Remy 870 it was real easy to see and understand that the safety was on when the white was showing and the gun was ready to fire when the red was showing.

 

My uncle, who only uses his shotgun for one weekend a year, has a hard time remembering what way his safety goes (he's a lefty and the safety on that particular gun can be reversed for lefties...so it can get confusing) and the color code really helps.

 

HK paints their safety the same way (red/white). Many ARs are done in the same way....its pretty universal.

 

 

Cool, sunnybean. I better understand what you meant now and I wasn't trying to insult you. I just think that, specifically in the case of the AK safety.... it's just so fuckin simple. Up = no bang, down = bang. Hell, if the safety's on, (up), a mere glance makes it clear that the action can't cycle and no spent casings can be ejected.. how much more obvious could it be?

 

It might make sense on other weapons to have the "safe" and "fire" positions marked prominently.. not so much on the AK.

[chevyman097 2,579]

Im sorry guys, lets plese keep the pissing contest in....the bathroom, hell I dunno I can piss really far but my cock isnt so big. I just wanted to touch on this subject again and try it out for size, this isnt a factor of being able to read the stamping, or tell if my safety is on or off. I simply want "bitches" to look at me and know I have a saiga, the cady of AKs ho! I love the look on folks faces when you tell them you have a saiga while they are holding a chinca or romy, its like crushing a little girls childhood dreams.

 

Ok im drunk lol night all!

[Azrial 1,091]

Never put any solvent on the cheap factory paint of the Saiga. It will rub off with most solvents.

[bigsal 757]

 

Can't make an exit without a "dis" sal? "Bubba". I'll wear that one with pride .

 

Automotive paint wands...lol. Sal... he's looking for something to use on his gun, not to break open and sniff like a trailer park popper....

 

If you want to gild the lilly, you can also use Testors enamels to touch up raised areas. It comes in a variety of different shades and glosses... and Sal, if you want you can sniff it right out of the bottle. I am gay.

 

Not sure what paint you are using, but after thousands of rounds down range, my lettering remains glossy white. Make sure the paint pen says it will work on brake calipers or in the engine bay and you will be fine as far as heat goes. AGAIN: THIS IS THE EASIEST METHOD WITH THE BEST RESULTS, especially with an ultra ghey pink .410 like mine! Maybe user error on your part Schmied... Excuse me, I have to go drop some acid and jerk off to my collection of Harry Reid porn before my Viagra wears off

 

No problem Sal... have fun! I am gay

 

 

You Hollywood types are perceptive.

[22_Shooter 1,560]

I did the Crayon method on an AR lower, awhile ago. I did the whole rollmark, the company info, caliber info, Safe, Fire, etc.

 

I thought it looked great. Then after a little while, I thought it looked stupid. I then toothpicked all the Crayon out of everything, but left the Fire/Safe in red/white. I'm not saying don't do it. I'm just saying, use something that's easy to remove......for if/when you decide you don't like it anymore.

 

FWIW, the Crayon held up fine and I didn't even use a blow-dryer on it. Also, actual red Crayon is too light, and it comes out looking almost pink, IMO. I used a different color. I can't remember what it was called though. You know, it had one of those gay names they give Crayons.

[sunnybean 939]

PA,

 

As a kid growing up shooting a Remy 870 it was real easy to see and understand that the safety was on when the white was showing and the gun was ready to fire when the red was showing.

 

My uncle, who only uses his shotgun for one weekend a year, has a hard time remembering what way his safety goes (he's a lefty and the safety on that particular gun can be reversed for lefties...so it can get confusing) and the color code really helps.

 

HK paints their safety the same way (red/white). Many ARs are done in the same way....its pretty universal.

 

 

Cool, sunnybean. I better understand what you meant now and I wasn't trying to insult you. I just think that, specifically in the case of the AK safety.... it's just so fuckin simple. Up = no bang, down = bang. Hell, if the safety's on, (up), a mere glance makes it clear that the action can't cycle and no spent casings can be ejected.. how much more obvious could it be?

 

It might make sense on other weapons to have the "safe" and "fire" positions marked prominently.. not so much on the AK.

 

Right on, good buddy. We're on the same page on ease of the AK safety. Again, I wasn't refering to that.

 

Although I don't normally fill my safety markings (or any engraveings) in on my guns I can see the benifit. Another good example of how the color coded safety works well is on an Uzi. I can't read the hebrew markings but I know what they mean because someone marked the engravings in the appropriate colors.

 

Cheers,

 

sunnybean