How or could better Accuracy be achivied

[loki0629 55]

Snuffy, I'm not much of a bag shooter but I think I'm going to go that route when I start doing handloads for the .308. Vielen dank!

 

Fluid, I've been waiting for him to chime in on this thread and your 5.45 thread as well. I hope he's just too busy shooting.

[corbin 621]

I remember somewhere there was a video of an ak with a gap between the barrel and the gas tube as a proof of the ruggedness of the firearm.

 

 

Is this it?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hcuVyTcITQ

 

I suppose with a little gap at the front and back of the Ultimak, it would help the barrel float a bit more, though the piston would still be in contact with the gas block.

[Snuffy Smith 0]

Snuffy, I'm not much of a bag shooter but I think I'm going to go that route when I start doing handloads for the .308. Vielen dank!

 

 

Hey Gunny,

 

Here's a good read on Harmonic Resonance Theory. Some of it was a bit difficult to wrap my brain around, but overall it's very interesting. He's not passin' brain farts; he's shootin' straight.

http://www.the-long-...explanation.pdf

 

Here's another good read, which compares the 5.56 to the 223 Remington. It has lots of other material too. This guy's a jarhead, I think. Anyway, he's got his sh*t in one sock.

http://razoreye.net/mirror/ammo-oracle/AR15_com_Ammo_Oracle_Mirror.htm

Edited June 13, 2010 by Snuffy Smith

[zone1935 5]

I remember somewhere there was a video of an ak with a gap between the barrel and the gas tube as a proof of the ruggedness of the firearm.

 

 

Is this it?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hcuVyTcITQ

 

I suppose with a little gap at the front and back of the Ultimak, it would help the barrel float a bit more, though the piston would still be in contact with the gas block.

It's not the one I was thinking of, but it is very similar. I thought that reducing the possible pressures of the differences in thermal properities along with a method of eliminating the contact of the handguard with the barrel would yield possible improvements. The approach I want to explore would retain the "normal" look of an ak as much as possible.

[corbin 621]

It's not the one I was thinking of, but it is very similar. I thought that reducing the possible pressures of the differences in thermal properities along with a method of eliminating the contact of the handguard with the barrel would yield possible improvements. The approach I want to explore would retain the "normal" look of an ak as much as possible.

 

 

I would think that having a little space in between the gas tube, gas block and front trunnion might help..... but the piston itself will still be touching the inside of the gas block, so I'm not sure how much that will matter. Free floating the HG would probably help too, though that's likely more involved.

[russiangunrunner 10]

dude i know took a 1919 barrel, machined a custom gas block and rear sight block turned the cartridge end of the barrel to fit a saiga .308 front trunnion....

makes a PSG1 barrel look light in comparison...

[russiangunrunner 10]

heres a pic

[leadslinger 37]

Interesting....more pics different angles or maybe a tutorial of what and how you did it.

[russiangunrunner 10]

wasn't me, it was turbothis

 

look him up at militaryfirearm or theakforum

 

hell, the thing's for sale on gunjoker, just look for saiga .308 sniper....

 

kickass dude btw, currently re-doing my 1949 russian AK47 type "1" back to the way its SUPPOSED to be, on the right reciever of his own making and so forth.

[Snuffy Smith 0]

Snuffy, I'm not much of a bag shooter but I think I'm going to go that route when I start doing handloads for the .308. Vielen dank!

 

 

Hey Gunny,

 

Here's a good read on Harmonic Resonance Theory. Some of it was a bit difficult to wrap my brain around, but overall it's very interesting. He's not passin' brain farts; he's shootin' straight.

http://www.the-long-...explanation.pdf

 

Here's another good read, which compares the 5.56 to the 223 Remington. It has lots of other material too. This guy's a jarhead, I think. Anyway, he's got his sh*t in one sock.

http://razoreye.net/...acle_Mirror.htm

 

Hey Gunny,

 

When ya start reloading for your 308 win., you can fine tune things by weighting each case and bullet to + or - 1/10th grain. Also, I measure the length of each bullet to within + or - .0001. You'll need the Dillion electronic scale for the brass and bullet. If ya wanna really get to where the rubber meets the road, you'll buy a tool for your caliper to measure the Ogive which is where the bullet begins to curve to the point (meplat) and the bearing surface, which is from the beginning of the Ogive to the base of the bullet. If you're shooting under 200 yards, I'd not waste my time. Such critical information is for long range shooting. Anything beyond 200 yards, it'll help. http://www.midwayusa...oductTabReviews or http://www.6mmbr.com...3308/977259.htm Here's a good read on bullets: http://www.swage.com...ks/hb9-text.pdf Also, I failed to mention that you'll need Dilion/Lee Lube when decapping and full length sizing rifle brass. I do not use lube on pistol brass.

http://www.dillonpre...__8_oz__Bottle_ or http://www.midwayusa...ctnumber=482023

 

Here's some information concerning OAL - http://www.larrywillis.com/OAL.html or http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2009/03/26/determining-bullet-seating-depth/ or http://blog.sinclairintl.com/category/how-to-artic

 

Also, here's the Sinclair tool for measuring OAL. http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=35491/Product/Sinclair_Bullet_Seating_Depth_Tool It's a much better tool than the Stoney Point.

Edited June 27, 2010 by Snuffy Smith

[Zambidis 90]

Any word on how that Tromix .223 shot? I was just thinking about how a saiga might shoot if one installed a high end match barrel. I was just thinking that a S308 "Saignov" build with a .260 remington Krieger barrel would be an interesting way to blow some money.

 

I think it's been proven that the rifle is a tackdriver post conversion with no further mods other than handloading ammo. Any spread on the target is going to be an ammo or shooter issue, not mechanics.

 

I'm not sure that it has. Shooting the ocassional (or single) good, even very good, 3 shot group doesn't really prove anything. It certainly doesn't qualify even that rifle as a tack driver let alone everyone that comes of the line. There is a difference between cherry picking one good group (and particularly if it is a 3 shot group) and having a rifle that will repeatedly make tight 5 round groups. I certainly agree that Saigas in my experience have demonstrated more accuracy than people tend to expect from AK platform weapons.

[Snuffy Smith 0]

Snuffy, I'm not much of a bag shooter but I think I'm going to go that route when I start doing handloads for the .308. Vielen dank!

 

Fluid, I've been waiting for him to chime in on this thread and your 5.45 thread as well. I hope he's just too busy shooting.

 

 

Gunny,

 

Here's a review of the Bulls Bag System by "The Box of Truth". http://www.theboxotr...docs/edu109.htm

I have the 10 inch field model in Black and Gold, because the 15 inch bag is too long for a Saiga 16 1/2 barrel. Later, I'd like

to buy the X7 bag system. Personally, I think it's a much better system overall. http://www.bullsbag.com/

 

The guy from "The Box of Truth" is correct that the Bulls Bag field model is rather low on the bench, so I made a 2 inch high box to put under

my bag, which helped. The X7 system is higher and it comes with a butt bag, too. You do not need a box with the X7. Actually, it has a seven bag system, but you

can buy as many components as fits your needs.

 

Gunny,

 

Here's a video on reloading the 45 ACP with the Lee Classic Press. My finally step is crimping with a Lee Factory Crimp die. This guy doesn't crimp his pistol ammo. Also, he's using a different tool for trimming the case. I've been considering this tool for the last month, because it's fast. His trimming tool is: http://www.midwayusa...ctNumber=136199 Also, this length guide is a must, too. http://www.midwayusa...ctNumber=107333

http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=a5bKsyge1fk&feature=related

 

If you read the reviews at MidwayUSA, you'll find that most suggest buying the guide tool and cutter.

 

Here's a video that's on reloading equipment. He mentions the Lee Hand Primer. I have it, but I don't use it anymore. The Lee Classic Single Stage Press hast its own primer tools.

Edited July 21, 2010 by Snuffy Smith

[diensthunds 0]

While it may not be the most supper accurate weapon the picture shows you can get pretty close.

Factory ammo shot pretty well so far. Will try some reloads when I get around to working some up.

100 yard distance with scope and shooting off a bench with a bipod and gun bag as supports.

[Snuffy Smith 0]

"I've been considering this tool for the last month, because it's fast. His trimming tool is: http://www.midwayusa...ctNumber=136199 Also, this length guide is a must, too. http://www.midwayusa...ctNumber=107333"

 

 

Hey guys,

 

I finally received the Lee guide and cutter. Save your money! The cutter became dull in less than twenty cases. It's really rough on the hands, too. I'll stick with the RCBS trim die. Also, the guy in the video loading 45 acp. He was measuring powder with a dipper. I don't recommend that. You should use a balance beam scale or electronic scale IMHO. Dillion is the best. I've owned Lee, RCBS, Redding, and Dillion.

[yq397r 0]

I put a quick detach scope mount with a Bushnell Red Dot sight on my Saiga and was getting pretty decent and tight groups at 25 yards. Groupings should significantly improve as I become more familiar with the rifle and more I shoot it. Put only about 160 rounds through it so far.