dussandr 76 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I have a FSB coming for my 5.45. This one: http://akpartskits.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_12&products_id=52 I have the old FSB off the barrel, and took out the drum and sight post. Do I need to do anything to the barrel before I install the new FSB? Also, I have a pin set from KVar coming- the 2 retention pins, and the spring-loaded pin in front for the flash hider. When installing the retention pins, do I drill across from hole to hole under the barrel? I'm curious how the pins will go in. Thanks for any help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 Nope, no mods to the barrel are needed. I have a sticky with pictures in this section, hopefully that can help. Just substitute your 3mm pins for the nails I used and it's identical. You drill the holes from the safety side of the gun to the scope side of the gun. Simply index the brake properly, double check it a few times to make sure it's as straight as possible, and then drill through the two holes in the FSB and make sure the holes come out through the FSB holes on the other side. After that you just pound the pins in with punch/sledge/ball peen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I always use 1/8th inch pins but that's because some sight blocks may have crooked holes and whatnot. I like to lightly polish up the inside surface of the sight block and outside of the barrel where it will be going on to, then use anti-seize compound on them. This makes it easier to hammer on, and easier to adjust once it's on to get it straight. Then I level the rifle up and drill it and I use the bench vise as a sort of press to easily press the pins in instead of hammering them. The hardest part for me is getting everything lined up, but that's because I use a laser boresighter pointed at a laser level, with the rifle level in a vise, and I get it absolutely perfect because if it's off then it will haunt me forever... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wade Pruetz 103 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 Nope, no mods to the barrel are needed. I have a sticky with pictures in this section, hopefully that can help. Just substitute your 3mm pins for the nails I used and it's identical. You drill the holes from the safety side of the gun to the scope side of the gun. Simply index the brake properly, double check it a few times to make sure it's as straight as possible, and then drill through the two holes in the FSB and make sure the holes come out through the FSB holes on the other side. After that you just pound the pins in with punch/sledge/ball peen. Klassy, Just curious why you used nails instead of the 3mm pins? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 then use anti-seize compound on them. This makes it easier to hammer on, and easier to adjust once it's on to get it straight. I had planned to use anti-seize just for this. Glad to hear someone has done it, and had good results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wade Pruetz 103 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I always use 1/8th inch pins but that's because some sight blocks may have crooked holes and whatnot. I like to lightly polish up the inside surface of the sight block and outside of the barrel where it will be going on to, then use anti-seize compound on them. This makes it easier to hammer on, and easier to adjust once it's on to get it straight. Then I level the rifle up and drill it and I use the bench vise as a sort of press to easily press the pins in instead of hammering them. The hardest part for me is getting everything lined up, but that's because I use a laser boresighter pointed at a laser level, with the rifle level in a vise, and I get it absolutely perfect because if it's off then it will haunt me forever... I never could get a laser boresighter on mine, I will get one and pull off the FSB and re-drill the barrel. My FSB is off ever so slightly and it does drive me crazy, even though I have seen factory guns off by much more. After doing mine I would recommend shooting the rifle first before you drill and pin the FSB, I wish I had done so but I am impatient. What bore-sighter did you use? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 My .223 boresight fits my 5.45. The same bore sight is listed for 5.45 and .223. http://store.a51tactical.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1999 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 (edited) Nope, no mods to the barrel are needed. I have a sticky with pictures in this section, hopefully that can help. Just substitute your 3mm pins for the nails I used and it's identical. You drill the holes from the safety side of the gun to the scope side of the gun. Simply index the brake properly, double check it a few times to make sure it's as straight as possible, and then drill through the two holes in the FSB and make sure the holes come out through the FSB holes on the other side. After that you just pound the pins in with punch/sledge/ball peen. Klassy, Just curious why you used nails instead of the 3mm pins? I didn't have any pins on hand and didn't want to wait for some in the mail. So nalioth showed me I can just use a 3/32 bit and 3/32 thick nails pounded in and peened as pins in the absence of the 3mm bit/pins. I ended up ordering some pins and metric bits so when I do my 7.62 I'll be using 3mm bit/pins. Also L5K that is a good idea with the polishing, I think I am going to try that on the next one I do. Edited June 4, 2010 by Klassy Kalashnikov Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I used one of these style of boresighters: The atachment for .22 or .223 works just fine for 5.45, and they can be had for relatively cheap. They are somewhat more fragile than the other style that goes into the chamber, but for now there is no other way to boresight a 5.45 that I know of, and for this purpose they work just fine. Also, good suggestion on firing the rifle before drilling and pinning, as that's exactly what I do too... Just to be sure. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I used one of these style of boresighters: The atachment for .22 or .223 works just fine for 5.45, and they can be had for relatively cheap. They are somewhat more fragile than the other style that goes into the chamber, but for now there is no other way to boresight a 5.45 that I know of, and for this purpose they work just fine. Also, good suggestion on firing the rifle before drilling and pinning, as that's exactly what I do too... Just to be sure. +1 on this, I have one just like yours, got it with the red dot I bought as a package deal on Amazon. It's a nice product and very inexpensive too. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 KK thanks for the sticky. That's what convinced me to do this...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 No problem dude, I am glad it helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wade Pruetz 103 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I used one of these style of boresighters: The atachment for .22 or .223 works just fine for 5.45, and they can be had for relatively cheap. They are somewhat more fragile than the other style that goes into the chamber, but for now there is no other way to boresight a 5.45 that I know of, and for this purpose they work just fine. Also, good suggestion on firing the rifle before drilling and pinning, as that's exactly what I do too... Just to be sure. Yep that's the one I have seen on AK forums, gotta get it soon before the Krink kit build starts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I'll add that's not the exact one I used, mine looks different, but it is the same concept. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Got the FSB on. Pin kit will be here Monday. Thanks for all the help guys. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
regal 2 Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Those that have installed these without lasers and gun vises, how is your cant? Is there any? By the time I buy all the tools to do it right I could buy a K-Var SLG. So I am curious about how these are turning out done "on the cheap"? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Those that have installed these without lasers and gun vises, how is your cant? Is there any? By the time I buy all the tools to do it right I could buy a K-Var SLG. So I am curious about how these are turning out done "on the cheap"? My sights are straight. I drove the sight base down the barrel with a brass mallet, with the muzzle brake on it. Hammer, check, hammer, check. Just go slow, and use Never-Seize in case you have to straighten it. I used a Dremel to cut down the side of the old FSB, to get it off, per KKs sticky. I also drilled out the dimples holding it to the barrel. It came off easily. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 I would shoot the rifle just to see how close it is before you pin it. That way you won't have to adjust the slider very far to get zero and end up with a strange sight picture with the post too close to one of the wings. Looks good man. Need some OD paint for the handguard to match that Hogue Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 Need some OD paint for the handguard to match that Hogue I'm going to the range in a few minutes to see if they're straight. About the HG- I have a donkey dong on the way, and I may stain it OD green, to match. It only cost me $7.99 with a lam stock, so if I screw it up, I'll order another. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted June 5, 2010 Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 I used dental floss to index mine. I tied it around the buttstock, and then pulled it through the notch on the front post, and then to the tip of the sight post. Then looking down, I adjusted the block with a mallet until it appeared straight. I compared the angle of the dental floss to the sides on the barrel, looking down at the rifle. Took a little bit, best to go slow, and then pin it in place. It came out about 1/8" off, probably less, and I just adjusted with the sight tool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2010 150 rounds through the 5.45 with no problems. Sights are dead on. I liked the Krinkov brake better than the AK74 brake- less flash and noise, and I was able to shoot double- and triple-taps one-handed. Also shot a Lee-Enfield I got earlier in the week. This is a sweet shooter. 1917 Australian Lithgow MkIII, shoots like a dream, esp for a 93 yr old rifle. Too bad ammo is relatively high for it. It doesn't kick near like the Mosin does. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 Lower handguard arrived today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wade Pruetz 103 Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 My .223 boresight fits my 5.45. The same bore sight is listed for 5.45 and .223. http://store.a51tactical.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1999 I had the .223 boresighter like this one and it would not chamber completely, it would rock back and forth so much the laser would move at least an inch from ten feet. Don't know if it was the same brand but mine was a no go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 Nice I like the wood foregrips too. My only complaint was that they are way too big. I trimmed mine down quite a bit, and may even trim it down even more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 Nice I like the wood foregrips too. My only complaint was that they are way too big. I trimmed mine down quite a bit, and may even trim it down even more. Thanks! Yours looks awfully nice. I saw one on a thread somewhere, the guy sanded finger grooves into the foregrip. For $7.99 + $8.47 shipping, I may get a couple more with which to experiment. I like the reddish wood tone, but I'm also curious how the wood would look stained olive-drab green. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 (edited) Same, I am actually a fan of the "donkey dong" forearms, I really like them. You trimmed yours down nice, finger grooves sound cool as well. I think it'd be a cool idea to trace out and grind ribs in them too, give it ridges like this: Edited June 7, 2010 by Klassy Kalashnikov Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toshbar 36 Posted June 8, 2010 Report Share Posted June 8, 2010 Thanks! Yours looks awfully nice. I saw one on a thread somewhere, the guy sanded finger grooves into the foregrip. For $7.99 + $8.47 shipping, I may get a couple more with which to experiment. I like the reddish wood tone, but I'm also curious how the wood would look stained olive-drab green. I linked you that thread over on GT. Here are the photos http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44333 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2010 Thanks Tosh!! I like the look of that grip. I may have to sand one out like that.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2010 In doing this to my 5.45, I have receipts from KVAR, Centerfire, Ak-builder.com, B2 Enterprises, Brownells, Combathunting, AKpartskits.com, NatchezSS, Cheaper Than Dirt, and Dinzag. All were flawless transactions, no problems with any of the parts, and I had no problems with any of the vendors. In every case the vendors were quick to answer inquiries by email, and I would by again with confidence from any and all of them. And of course, thanks to Roy at Lumberton Indoor Shooting Range, for nabbing me a 5.45x39 at an awesome price! {The only criticism I have is a very minor one, of KVAR. I ordered a pair of FSB retaining pins, and a muzzle brake retaining pin and spring. All 4 parts together are about an inch square, yet they shipped them loose, in a big unsealed UPS bag, inside a big cardboard box, via UPS, and it cost me $8.93 for shipping (the pins were only $8.77.) This could've been mailed for a buck or two via USPS. But, the order was correct, and all parts were there.} Quote Link to post Share on other sites
into_the_knight 22 Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 Lower handguard arrived today. It's like you built a Romanian AK 74. AIMR or AIMS is the model I believe. Good job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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