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bolt not completly closing on draco with rounds


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just curious if any body has had this happen to them and what they did to fix it.i got my draco a couple days ago and fired it today for the first time.first thing i did when i took it out of the box was strip it down and give it a good cleaning and oiling.loaded it up with some old corossive surpluss.when i racked the charging handle i noticed it didnt close all the way so i thought no big deal and forced it shut.it fired about three times and failed to close again.it continued between every 1-3 shots for 60 rounds.my first thought was the old dirty ammo.i stripped it down and since i used corrosive i cleaned it out very well and then went ahead and sanded and polished the contact areas on the bolt and carrier and rails.loaded it up with non-corossive clean ammo.same thing happens.a couple things to add to the equasion.without rounds in it,it cycles and fully closes no problem.im using hungarian 20 rounders.i have 3 of them.one will not fit in the gun,so maybe these are causing some probs.will go borrow a 30 rounder and try it later to see.any insight is appreciated.

Edited by BuzzNectar
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I noticed mine didn't close all the way when I firs received it. I racked it by hand several hundred times by hand before I brought it to the shoot ranch. It worked without any problem after ward for me.

yeah i figured that it would take a little breakin in to run smooth,but my problem is that it cycles real smooth and bolt seems to lock nicely until you put ammo in and try to chamber a round.then it will not close all the way(about a 1/4"-3/8")you can slam it shut,but it takes quite a bit of force.sometimes its a bitch to open with a round in the chamber.so i dont really think its a simple wear issue.it really sucks cause i have wanted a draco for quite some time and now i finally got one,its screwed up.i got it new from centerfire and they come with a warranty but i dont want the hastle of shipping it back and waiting for who knows how long to get it back so i would like to remedy this myself.just a little lost and frusterated right now as im usually pretty good with a kalashnikov

Edited by BuzzNectar
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Same problem here. Tried several mags as well. Will feed fine for a few rounds and jam. Shove the bolt forward and all is well for a couple more rounds. Last time the case would not extract and I ended up hammering (rubber mallet) bolt back. Had to run cleaning rod down barrel and tap case out. No odd-ball marks on case.

 

I have stripped the bolt down completely and cleaned the extractor/spring/bolt. Lubed and reassembled. Checked bore and chamber and all looks great. Will try it again after I manually rack it a hundred time or so. For what it's worth, it is incredibly accurate when it runs properly. This is going to be an excellent sbr...once I get the kinks worked out. Seems more accurate than my stock Saiga 7.62x39.

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Same problem here. Tried several mags as well. Will feed fine for a few rounds and jam. Shove the bolt forward and all is well for a couple more rounds. Last time the case would not extract and I ended up hammering (rubber mallet) bolt back. Had to run cleaning rod down barrel and tap case out. No odd-ball marks on case.

 

I have stripped the bolt down completely and cleaned the extractor/spring/bolt. Lubed and reassembled. Checked bore and chamber and all looks great. Will try it again after I manually rack it a hundred time or so. For what it's worth, it is incredibly accurate when it runs properly. This is going to be an excellent sbr...once I get the kinks worked out. Seems more accurate than my stock Saiga 7.62x39.

yeah i too noticed that when aiming this little sucker is suprisingly accurate.i too intend to sbr it and cant wait to get the bugs out.hell....good luck to us both.

 

A lot of times this is caused by finish in the chamber. Try a 45 cal brush on a cleaning rod and polish the chamber with a drill. This is usually quicker than firing a couple hundred rounds to get it slicked up.

hmmmm...that sounds like a good possibility.i will have to try that trick after i get home this weekend from work.thanks for your input. Edited by BuzzNectar
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I cleaned mine and same thing. I took some old valve lapping coumpound (very light abrasive) and mated the bolt rails and front trunnion. Racked about 30 times, took apart,

hot water rinse, a little lube and done. Never happened again.( I know everybody has valve lapping coumpound laying around so it should be a breeze.):lolol:

 

Forgot to add I did take the bolt apart and cleaned it as well when I was done. Gotta make sure you clean it real good.

Edited by whitetrashrn
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I've read about similar problems on Arfcom about a Draco's bolt not closing all the way. Seems like a semi-common problem. But in my quick glance back through, I didn't see any fixes posted. But I will say that everyone who got a lemon and sent it back to Century, then received a flawless functioning Draco in return. I know you said you don't want to go that route, but it's reassuring to hear that Century is good about replacing them if need be.

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I am curious if you are using brass or steel cased ammo when experiencing the problem. I have seen similar problems with steel casings in new guns.

 

I'm not sure if it was due to machining marks as Tom suggested or some tolerance issue, but the brass fed fine and the steel gave the problem.

 

Please let us know which you were using and/or if brass cased gives problems.

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I've read about similar problems on Arfcom about a Draco's bolt not closing all the way. Seems like a semi-common problem. But in my quick glance back through, I didn't see any fixes posted. But I will say that everyone who got a lemon and sent it back to Century, then received a flawless functioning Draco in return. I know you said you don't want to go that route, but it's reassuring to hear that Century is good about replacing them if need be.

thats good to know.but i wonder if they would frown upon the fact that i have sanded and polished the internal contact areas?my luck they would say i voided the warranty.well at least i got one with good sights(not canted) :lolol: anyway i cant wait to get back home this weekend and try to get it working properly.i thought about swaping out the bolt with my buddys to see if it would close and cycle,but then the whole headspacing issue may arise since its from a different gun.idk.just cant wait to get it running and doll it up a bit and submit a stamp :smoke: i appreciate everybodys input on this and hopefully this stuff may answer some Q's for others who may have related issues.

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I am curious if you are using brass or steel cased ammo when experiencing the problem. I have seen similar problems with steel casings in new guns.

 

I'm not sure if it was due to machining marks as Tom suggested or some tolerance issue, but the brass fed fine and the steel gave the problem.

 

Please let us know which you were using and/or if brass cased gives problems.

well the first stuff i put through it was brass.....BUT it was old corrosive yugo surpluss(very dirty i might add)so immediatly i blamed the ammo and friction robbing pre break in.the next step was sand/polish contact areas,clean/lubricate and used non-corrosive clean steel cased norinco rounds.it gave same results.i think i have a whole wopping 3rds of wolf laying in a box and some us made tracer rounds.i might try this weekend for the hell of it(large fireball muzzle blast+zipping tracer tail= :super: ) hmmm...her is an idea.im sitting in the hotel room with my draco in hand.how about somebody gut their cover/recoil spring/carrier and bolt.slide a round inside the chamber firmly with thumb.measure how much of the case remains outside.

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0.159 on the extractor side

:lolol: sorry im doing "shade tree" trouble shooting.i dont have my tools or calipers with me.im measuring right over 1/8" and just under 3/16" on the top side.oh and my buddy got shot the same ammo i had and he has not had a single problem so im thinking either the chamber or the bolt or a combo of both.very frustrating not being able to work on it right now.AAAHHHH :chris:

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Maybe take the bolt apart, to be safe, put a round in and turn the bolt in the trunnion. You may find that it is turning hard in one palce

or another and give it a little polishing. Look at the bolt in the carrier does it work smooth?? Maybe a little burr somewhere in there.

Poke around in there and see if any burrs are anywhere. .159 looks like a little over an 8th but for that it is not the way to go about

measureing it. Thousands matter here. If nothing is there when you get home try his recoil spring maybe yours is a little weak.

Anything is possible..

Edited by whitetrashrn
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Maybe take the bolt apart, to be safe, put a round in and turn the bolt in the trunnion. You may find that it is turning hard in one palce

or another and give it a little polishing. Look at the bolt in the carrier does it work smooth?? Maybe a little burr somewhere in there.

Poke around in there and see if any burrs are anywhere. .159 looks like a little over an 8th but for that it is not the way to go about

measureing it. Thousands matter here. If nothing is there when you get home try his recoil spring maybe yours is a little weak.

Anything is possible..

thanks for helping out.

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How did you make out with this????

ok...i just had to get the new fallout new vegas so i have been consumed in the gaming world.i did however manage to pry myself away from the game for about half an hour.saying that i have made some progress.i stripped down the bolt and gave it a good cleaning,left out the extractor and pin then put it back in the carrier.it would chamber and close like a dream without the extractor in it.so now its down to two or the combination of the two things;the conture of the extractor or the extractor spring.the spring i noticed is EXTREMELY stiff,almost impossible to reassemble the retaining pins in the bolt head.i polished the extractor and ended up taking one coil off the spring.now it will chamber/close/eject when you vigorously rack the charging handle.if you cycle it by pulling back all the way and letting it go then most the time it will stick open and force is required to open/shut.if you rack it back real hard and let it rebound it will close/eject fine.havent shot it yet to how it reacts then.so anyway i now know it was failing to close due to the extractor not pushing over the rim of the case and hitting flush.i really think its the extractor spring.wonder if it would be a bad thing to try using a disconnector spring in its place?

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I would get another spring. They are way different in tention

and size. I would try a new extractor and spring. Maybe you got a bad one

or both bad, I dono. Parts are too cheap to be messing around cutting springs. Get it to work so you can take one out of your

friends spring or parts box and not have to cut or fit anything. I dont remember where I saw them but they have some blot repair kits

with a new extractor and spring, pins, and Firing pin.When I place an order for anything I get some small parts everytime. They dont

add much extra cash and make the shipping worthwile. Hope that helps..

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  • 2 weeks later...

update....i never could find an extractor spring or bolt kit anywhere,just complete bolts or extractor.i went ahead and cut down a disconnector spring just for the hell of it and......works like a charm.no more failure to close/lock.loads and ejects rounds as fast as you can pull the trigger.thanks to everybody who chimed in on my problem.as of now im leaving it as is until i come across an extractor specific spring.think i may just take the draco deer hunting next week :devil:

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