Cutting shroud off, need help

[Sklin 0]

I'm cutting the barrel shroud off of my Saiga and need some help. I'm using a dremel, cutting in a circle around the barrel (not the length of the barrel) and I'm worried about cutting too deep. Will i see the black finish underneath to know I should stop cutting? I'm using cutting oil and I'm wondering if I have it cut enough but maybe its just stuck due to possible threads or glue. If there are threads will it still just pop off or will I have to twist it off? Thanks.

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

Here goes another Bubba'd gun?

 

These are questions you're supposed to ask before, not after, you begin work on a project.

We see some pretty piss poor dremel jobs, hacked up barrels.

Hope your not one.

..........................................................

 

IMHO, the best way is to use a small pipe cutter, works great and won't cut too deep.

Once it completes the cut, the shroud noticeably moves/turns and/or pops off.

 

Dremel

Place barrel securely in vise

Mark shroud for cut... Circumferential.

Use a new cutoff wheel

Work slowly and cautiously and don't go too deep, mark your cutoff wheel, no deeper than 1/8"-3/16" or you risk cutting into the barrel.

Once you think your close, stick a screwdriver in the cut and try to pop it off.

If not, go a cunt hair deeper, repeat as necessary.

 

Edited May 8, 2011 by ChileRelleno

[Sklin 0]

I hope I'm not one either. I didn't ask these before because I had searched other threads and it didn't seem too bad. I'm just second guessing myself now that I saw some of the bad jobs and this is taking longer than expected. So even if it has threads, a screwdriver will pop it off? or will it still seem to be stuck in place even when the cut is made? Just wondering if I should stop cutting and twist more...

 

thanks

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

I'd stop cutting, ascertain average depth of cut ( 1/8"-3/16") and try to twist/pry it off.

 

Even better, wait till tomorrow or Monday and go buy a cheap pipe/tubing cutter to finish the job.

 

See what a nice neat job they do.

[Sklin 0]

Ok I measured it and I don't beleive that I'm cutting into the barrel. I'll wait and get a pipe cutter later. Thanks again.

Edited May 8, 2011 by Sklin

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

Ok I measured it and I don't beleive that I'm not cutting into the barrel. I'll wait and get a pipe cutter later. Thanks again.

Ninja Edit

Edited May 8, 2011 by ChileRelleno

[Sklin 0]

LOL yep.

[dashowdy 141]

Cut length ways down the barrel now putting two cuts 180 degrees apart on the sides of the shroud. Just cut deep enough to get a good notched channel the whole length of the piece you are cutting off. Then take a hammer and chisel, lay the gun on the ground face the chisel at an angle so it is about 45 to 60 degrees and give it a good wack in each direction. If it does not come off then cut a little deeper. Do not use a soft mallet it just does not apply enough direct force to cause the cut lines to separate. The parallel cut is just for where you want the threading to end. The perpindicular lines are so you can knock it off without hammering directly on the barrel. If done correctly this should be no more than a 20 minute job.

 

For me it wasn't it took a lot of cussing and researching before I founs the proper way. I had thought about the pipe cutter but chipping teeth on it and ruining a tool just seemed like a waste of money. This method is also alot better simply because you do not have to cut that deep and if it is threaded then you have less chance of damaging threads.

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

I'm cutting the barrel shroud off of my Saiga and need some help. I'm using a dremel, cutting in a circle around the barrel (not the length of the barrel) and I'm worried about cutting too deep. Will i see the black finish underneath to know I should stop cutting? I'm using cutting oil and I'm wondering if I have it cut enough but maybe its just stuck due to possible threads or glue. If there are threads will it still just pop off or will I have to twist it off? Thanks.

Cut length ways down the barrel now putting two cuts 180 degrees apart on the sides of the shroud. Just cut deep enough to get a good notched channel the whole length of the piece you are cutting off. Then take a hammer and chisel, lay the gun on the ground face the chisel at an angle so it is about 45 to 60 degrees and give it a good wack in each direction. If it does not come off then cut a little deeper. Do not use a soft mallet it just does not apply enough direct force to cause the cut lines to separate. The parallel cut is just for where you want the threading to end. The perpindicular lines are so you can knock it off without hammering directly on the barrel. If done correctly this should be no more than a 20 minute job.

 

For me it wasn't it took a lot of cussing and researching before I founs the proper way. I had thought about the pipe cutter but chipping teeth on it and ruining a tool just seemed like a waste of money. This method is also alot better simply because you do not have to cut that deep and if it is threaded then you have less chance of damaging threads.

Reading comprehension FTW!

 

As for ruining a pipe cutter/chipping the cutting wheel, shouldn't happen if ya do it right and if the tool isn't crap to begin with.

Pipe cutter is best method to remove shroud, it actually lets you know the cut is done because it forces the shroud to move when completed.

Edited May 8, 2011 by ChileRelleno

[dashowdy 141]

This is just my .02 cents and it is what worked the best for me, just throwing in my suggestions. My two mistakes were using a rubber mallet with my chisel and not cutting it length ways. Doing those two things made the experience much easier. Besides I already had the dremel so cutting it off with that was the most logical choice. most pipe cutters you get at the store do not take well to forged steel, thus over tighten like I did and you chew the teeth up on the pipe cutter. These are my tips for this particular method, If you like the pipe cutter better than do what your comfortable with.

Edited May 8, 2011 by dashowdy

[Sklin 0]

Ok, got it off. There's a few nicks in the barrel but nothing too deep... can this affect the barrel negatively besides looking bad? It wasn't threaded by the way.

[jadam13 0]

I'll assume you cut the shroud off so you can thread and add a brake/suppressor. If so the threading will do away with the nicks.

[Nailbomb 10,221]

I used a hacksaw blade, a dremil, a chisel, and hammer.

 

Cut grooves down each side of the shroud, and used the hacksaw blade to cut the shroud off at the end of the front sight post. Hammer and chisel to tear it open, Blade never touched the barrel.

 

Found out the barrel wasn't threaded despite not having the chamber step. Just went ahead and threaded it myself.

 

Used a similar method to remove the front sight as seen HERE

[Mrbrownfolks 1]

Is it typical to cut as far back the fsb base? I'm going to do my first tonight with a pipe cutter.

[dashowdy 141]

I left mine about a 1/16 of an inch of the fsb, I wanted to be able to index my flash hider and muzzle brake with crush washers, cut it however far you want and get some crushwashers to fill in any gaps you may have. flash hiders tend to be shorter threads than the muzzle brakes do.

[Mrbrownfolks 1]

A little clarification, Is indexing to ensure that the gases keep the muzzle from moving as much?

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

Indexing is to align the muzzle attachment's ports so as to be effective, as designed.

Some have a definite position they must be in to operate effectively.

Many AK attachments are loosely threaded & kept indexed by a pin that protrudes from the FSB, proper index is only achievable when pinned.

 

Example: A brake would have gills/slants on sides and ports on top.

 

Example: A improved birdcage flash suppressor has 1-2 slots missing, and is to be indexed with the solid portion down, this keeps the muzzle blast from raising a dust signature when firing prone.

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

Is it typical to cut as far back the fsb base? I'm going to do my first tonight with a pipe cutter.

 

On a factory threaded barrel, the threads only go 5/8" back, not all the way to the FSB.

Cutting all the way back will leave a large gap between the FSB and a muzzle attachment.

 

Most small pipe cutters will not cut all the way back, most cut back .5" (9/16"), which is just shy of the threads factory base.

You can then index against the remaining shroud with a crush/peel washer.

[dmac27 17]

I used a pipe cutter on my 7.62 conversion and only took the shroud back 5/8" that was as far as I could go with the cutter. I went very slow only turning it in slightly every three turns...it took maybe 25 minutes and when it cut all the way through the shroud popped off. I used a die alignment tool and die from CNC warrior.(Best price I found) and threaded the barrel myself.

[DanTheEldest 2]

IMHO, the best way is to use a small pipe cutter, works great and won't cut too deep.

Once it completes the cut, the shroud noticeably moves/turns and/or pops off.

 

 

I'd been wondering how I was going to prep it for a brake, but I was a little hesitant to use a dremel. Yet another time I'm glad this place exists.

Edited July 27, 2011 by DanTheEldest

[pjj342 632]

Im probably too late to really help, but If you dont need to index, use the pipe cutter and take your time. Thats what I did first. Then I used a hose clamp as a guide and used a hacksaw to cut, so I could be far enough back to use a crush washer for some extra retention. Unless you really know what to do, dont use the damn dremel. Use hand tools, as you can tell when you break thru the shroud. I did put a little less than 1mm cut into the barrel in a couple places, but the die cleaned it right up. Also I didnt have any need to cut a front to back line like some say to do, although it may not be a bad idea.

[mammynun 14]

I used a dremel on mine after I knocked the FSB off, I think it turned out well:

 

and to pre-emptively answer your next question:

 

 

End result: