lambshot23 0 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 So I went to lowes and purchased a pipe cutter. I wanted to check and see if it is possibly threaded underneath before I purchase the tap. Problem is I am having a hard time keeping the pipe cutter straight on the barrel while turning. Really seems like the barrel is only barely being scored and it will not cut through. Am I missing something here or did I just buy a piece of crap? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KC913 324 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 You should keep it lubed up with oil while cutting. Tighten it so it barely marks the shroud, couple of rotations, tighten it slightly, couple rotations, tighten, etc. Should be able to cut through it easily if you keep tightening it every few rotations. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Might be turning it the wrong way? the cutting wheel should follow, not lead. If this isn't it make sure the screws holding the cutting and guide wheel are secure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Revolver Ocelot 3 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Just keep tightening it slight after every rotationand keep going until the shroud just falls off. Just did mine today, no threads . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Question, did you buy a regular pipe cutter or soft metal tubing/conduit cutter? There are differences in the cutting wheel's hardness. If you have the right cutting wheel, its as easy as slip it on, crank it down, oil, a turn or two should score the shroud easily. 5-10 turns, crank it down tight, oil and repeat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KC913 324 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 I used a $10.00 tubing cutter on mine and had no problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lambshot23 0 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 regular pipe cutter...on back it says for metals Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lambshot23 0 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 This is what I purchased http://www.lowes.com/pd_331919-943-35236.STC8_0__?productId=3220031&Ntt=tubing+cutter&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dtubing%2Bcutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Mild steel... It should do the job... Crank it down TIGHT, and start turning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Revolver Ocelot 3 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 (edited) That should work fine. I picked up a cheap $5 one from harbor freight that was for copper tubing. Still worked fine and cut through without oil. Edited May 10, 2011 by Revolver Ocelot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cbryan 7 Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 I've not cut my shroud off but I have never oil a pipe cutter, and have never had a single problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IKE 2 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) I got a small pipe cutter and had to take pliars to the handle to loosen it so I could take it off as it seemed to jammed. Well the cutting wheel is now FLAT instead of pointy and I hardly made it around the barrel once... Anyone have any recommended brands that WORK and aren't $$ expensive? Edited June 21, 2011 by IKE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I've not cut my shroud off but I have never oil a pipe cutter, and have never had a single problem Yea, I can tell you in ten years of working with all diffrent types of pipe from cold rolled normalized seemless to soft CUNI 90/10 I've never ONCE oiled a pipe cutter. You oil taps and dies. Although aside from just making it hard to grip I'm not sure what oil would hurt. Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjj342 632 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Might be turning it the wrong way? the cutting wheel should follow, not lead. When I cut my shroud, I turned the cutter with the wheel leading the cut, with a little oil. It turned out just fine, even if it was backwards. I used a 10$ kobalt one from lowes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IKE 2 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) Boomsick42, thanks, I might try checking lowes then. The $3.30 Menards one was small, but the wheel was pretty soft. And the turning knob binds with the slightest tension. I even tried oiling the threads and "bearing" surfaces of the tool but that didn't help. I really don't feel like getting out the hack-saw.... EDIT: Well Lowes is out of every Kobalt pipe/tube cutter.... hmmm. Edited June 22, 2011 by IKE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjj342 632 Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Boomsick42, thanks, I might try checking lowes then. The $3.30 Menards one was small, but the wheel was pretty soft. And the turning knob binds with the slightest tension. I even tried oiling the threads and "bearing" surfaces of the tool but that didn't help. I really don't feel like getting out the hack-saw.... EDIT: Well Lowes is out of every Kobalt pipe/tube cutter.... hmmm. I would feel better with a hack saw than a dremel. Just tighten a hose clamp around where you want to cut, so its straight, and go to it. You are only going like 1/8", it might take longer with a hack saw but you will know when you break thru. Kmart, wal mart, lowes, it doesnt matter. As long as you dont crank it down too much you should be fine. Just use common sense and youll succeed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IKE 2 Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 What is everyone doing for indexing? I worry that if I cut it 9/16" and it won't index when fully tight, or I use teflon tape and then it's got a gap... 1) Has anyone cut it all the way off, threaded it all the way to the sight block, then used the barrel sleeve cut down to the right length as a spacer? 2) What about taking a muzzle nut, cutting it to 3/8" or 1/4" or whatever is required, and using that as a jam-nut??? 3) Or am I worrying too much and just need to go 9/16", and use teflon tape and there will be minimal gap due to the fine threads??? 4) Do the muzzle brakes start to unscrew ever if not locked with a pin or lock washer/jam nut? I mean if it's just screwed tight to the sleeve will it loosen? Thanks!!!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moose05 0 Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 depends on what muzzle end you are using that would determine how far you thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IKE 2 Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 So you're saying thread until it's indexed? What if I want to go between different ones? Say 74 style, then switch to AMD65 for fun & extra noise... ? What about drilling the sight block from the top for a pin, putting an extra long pin in that will reach the muzzle device, putting a small spring in, and just being careful when removing the muzzle device as to not loose the pin and spring (no retention system for the pin). I can't see why that wouldn't work.... ???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Las_Vegas_HK 0 Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Just keep tightening it slight after every rotationand keep going until the shroud just falls off. Just did mine today, no threads . Mine had no threads either. Got my hopes up and now I am kind of bumed. Maybe the thread thing is like the urban legend similar to the 6 volt latern battery that after you cut them open you will find 926 AA batteries inside?! I find a Dremel works best for cutting barrels or front site colars. Use a hose clamp tighened around the area then follow the hose clamp for a straight line all the way around. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IKE 2 Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I got my shroud cut back finally. Exactly to 9/16"s which is exactly how long the muzzle nut is I got, so I can protect the threads when transporting without a muzzle brake. Barrel diameter is .564" which is perfect for 14mmx1 thread. Made in 09. I roughly measured my AMD65 brake and the threads are 5/8" deep and the 74style use copy is 3/4" deep. Pipe cutter didn't work, was really frustrating but didn't damage anything. I used a hacksaw with 32 teeth per inch, and a 1/2" wide hose clamp and kept rotating it and clamping it back down as I went around. You think you are cutting into the barrel but then finally you see metal break through. Once you do be very careful and try to twist it off with pliers. It will break the remaining metal when you get to that point. I have a tiny nick in the barrel at one spot but it's nothing deep (notches for sight post pins would be way deeper) and it won't be seen anyway. You could almost go for 2 saw blades as towards the end the blade starts to dull. Or try a 24 point but the 32point made a very smooth clean cut. I got a quality blade that was 8% cobalt. I attached some pics to show you can do it with a hack-saw as well. I wiped it down with brake cleaner and shot it with some semi-gloss 500* engine paint I had left over from my other hobby. I was in a hurry so I applied it hot and thick so it's not very flat looking but I mainly just wanted to get the bare metal covered up so it won't rust when I go shooting tomorrow. I may duracoat the whole gun in flat black (with some extra hardener to make it more of a semi-flat) later anyway. My friend bought some and I may just shoot the whole gun and be done with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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