imstrbrightside 0 Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 #1. do you just get different color engine paint or is there specific paint im supposed to get? im looking for the "urban camo" look #2. where does every one get the pattern for the camo paint jobs? is there one or do i just pattern as i go? thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
702Saiga12 6 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 duracoat has a plenty of firearm finishes. they have camo stencils as well. personally I dont recommend duracoat because i've used it, and wasnt happy with my results. but i've seen good camo jobs with duracoat. you can try to see if norells molly resin has a good three color combo you could use, but you have to bake the paint on to cure it, and that might not be good for the stencils that are stuck to your weapon. hope this helps, im sure some other members will chime in with some helpful advice too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 (edited) ok since I am doing my Desert Camo on my AR I will answer you.. Krylon Ultra Flat.. comes in OD, Khacki, Brown, & Black.. other option is Aervoe brand.. which I got single cans in the colors I wanted from DSG Arms.. for $6.06 http://dsgarms.com/C...pray_Paint.aspx You can also buuy Alumihyde, Duracoat, etc.. or use a hi-temp FLAT paint.. (maybe just on the barrel).. for stencils you could use just HAY ot PINE branches.. or get a stencil downloaded from this place.. http://www.tacticalc...MARPAT/digi.php they give you options for the type of Digi under Choose Camo Scheme drop down menu.. print in on a sheet of the LARGE 1 page label paper and just cut and put on rifle where you DON't want the paint to go.. here is a sample layout for the idea.. now of course most start by painting the rifle a base color.. usually the lightest color or the darkest.. then work backwards to the other end of the spectrum.. paint a coat.. overlap some more digi TAPE.. repeat.. when done.. cover with something like Valspar FLAT clear from Lowes or HD.. Hope this helps you some.. also check YouTube for videos on 'How to CAMO your rifle' Heres 2 mags I did messing around with non-camo paint on Saturday.. used a digi stencil cut from a manilla folder... and some HAY.. 3 colors.. primer white, flat black, & dark taupe.. Albert Edited May 31, 2011 by YWHIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
menace667 194 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 If you want to use a Duracoat I recommend having a professional do it. The cost between what you will invest in materials, time, energy, and aggrevation will be about equivalent. I just had my Saiga Duracoated and the guy who did it told me the process, and it isnt something you can do at home which is why the result isnt usually as good with the take home kits. Also, Duracoat has a long cure time (3-6 weeks) after coating before you should fire the weapon and they recommend waiting as long as possible to allow full cure. This also includes the clearcoat, also optional UV coating, which is a necessity for nay coating. If you decide to DIY the gentleman above has given you some awesome advice. Be patient and dont let the aggrevation get the best of you.You may look like this before it is all said and done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rdog1974 2 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 I have used simple krylon camo paint from the local wallyworld several times over the years, and have been 100% happy with it. Yes over time it wears off, but over time I get tired of the pattern and re-do the camo anyway. I never used any clearcoat finish, that may fix the wear? don't know. Just clean and prep very well first. And you may want to use something like a 2x4 or a length of pvc pipe as a practice piece for your camo style first. It gives a good idea of how it looks on a weapon, and shows you what not to do (like using a cut templet has never worked for me on anything thats not flat) I use blue painters tape. If you have kids, spray paint one of their toy guns first. If you want perfection you could use one of those hydrodip kits...they look very cool, I hope to try one out someday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
datrowl 111 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Might sound silly but as far as the digicamo goes, its a grand idea, but hard to recreate at home, the little square blocks are hard to cut out. I had a friend who camoed his gun not too long ago, we ended up useing posterboard cut to lay flat across the parts that needed camoed, used double sided tape to stick graph paper to it for referance marks, then used a hole punch to punch the patterns we wanted in the graph paper. wish I had pics, will try and get some later.... it turned out really nice. After we hole punched the templets, spray the gun, then go back and soften the whole thing up with some natural media, long grass and leaves and such... on the soften spray, you'r not trying to paint so much as just blur the lines so hold back a good 12 to 14 inches and don't overspray that layer. The great thing about the hole punch idea is, you cut 2 or 3 templates for each section, punch your holes in different spots, that digi camo will have blocks that have several colors in it not just one large cutout... its the easiest way to duplicate the effect that we've found. Good luck and post pics! .... remember its camo... you can't really screw it up~! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 I did my old broken Red Ryder this past Saturday for practice.. will be doing OTHER side of it also before I actually do the AR.. want to try all my combo ideas first on that.. good tip on the hole-punch trick.. cutting the 1/4" squares is a PITA.. but since I printed on a sheet of label paper.. after I cut I just put them on.. and there colored the shades of paint I want to use.. as I used color ink.. I agree on 'fuzzing' the digi lines.. with some foliage or light dusting it.. Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 (edited) +1 to the Krylon and Aervoe. Aervoe has more colors to choose from. A very simple and effective stencil is using a piece of the fabric from military cammo netting. (Remove the net part). Apply your base color, then randomly drape the cammo fabric on the weapon and hit it in random spots with your next color. Repeat with your other colors. If all you are trying to do is break up the outline of the weapon, that's all that's needed. If you are striving for a fancy work of art to post online, (which may not be effective camouflage), carry on with the elaborate stencils. ETA: When you get all your colors on, remove the fabric and lightly dust it with a suitable color to blend them together removing any sharp outlines. Edited May 31, 2011 by MT Predator Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewoketeer 35 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Some years ago, I acquired a Badger airbrush and the instructions that came with said to hold the pattern just off the object to be painted in order to achieve a 'fuzzed' effect. Practice on something else first to get the effect you're looking for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Here's a method Pat Rogers uses to paint his loaner guns to achieve a Multicam effect. Lightly hit it with Aervoe 977 Sand for a base. Then using the aforementioned procedure using the cammo net pieces, hit it with Aervoe 480 Highland randomly. Then again randomly, use Aervoe 992 USMC Green, then Aervoe 932 Dark Green the same way. Then dust it lightly with Aervoe 987B Olive Drab to blend them all together. His weapons look pretty tits with this paint scheme! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 @ MT.. thanks for the numbers.. but I went the USMC Desert Camo direction.. with these numbers.. I ordered last week.. paint is due in tommorrow via UPS.. AE1081 Aervoe Light Coyote camo paint AE1078 Aervoe Urban Tan camo paint AE1079 Aervoe Light Tan camo paint AE1080 Aervoe Highland camo paint AE968 Aervoe Field Drab camo paint and then locally bought Krylon Ultra Flat 'Olive' CAMO just in case.. Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imstrbrightside 0 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 so i picked up 3 cheap cans of paint that would represent 3 similar colors i would use just to see if it was worth it. painted the plastic toy white(which actually alone looks so clean), placed some patterns down, then dark grey, placed couple patterns then painted it black, then peeled all the tape off. i didnt want to wait untill it 100% dried so i peled some of the paint off and didnt cover the entire gun, so i did slack off a bit, but in the end i do see this working full scale. on a full size gun the squares will appear smaller. the toy has alot more random curves to it, whereas the saiga is alot more flatter and i would imagine alot easier Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 my updates on the same subject.. CAMO.. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/67419-dpms-lr-308-going-under-the-camo-paint/ just got the paint in and figured out a proposed GAME PLAN.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deussne 38 Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 i did my own Duracoat job. Its labor intensive and takes a lot of time, in order to get it cured properly. However I am very happy with the results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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