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Finished the conversion but still having issues...


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I got the conversion parts in the mail this week and put em on yesterday. When charging the weapon the bolt and carrier slide back a couple inches then it hangs up and ya have to give it a pretty good pull. I have never had this problem and didnt know if it was from the new tapco trigger and FCG. Is it doing this because they're new parts and have to be broken in? Or should i re profile the bottom of the carrier?

 

And sorry i dont have pics for ya all. But i currently dont have a camera

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The Tapco hammer needs to be re-profiled, compare it to the original and you will see. Leave the carrier alone, always modify the part that can be replaced (hammer) not the one that can't (carrier). There should be some pictures in some threads somewhere on this forum.

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My conversion had a rather unique issue I have never read about here. My axis pin retaining plate must have been slightly out of spec, because the bolt carrier was getting stuck between the top of the plate and the rail. It took me forever to find the problem but finally noticed it when I cycled my bolt carrier while squeezing the trigger at the same time. I could feel significant drag on the carrier so I removed it for inspection. That's when I noticed the drag markings under the carrier on the side of the pin plate. The solution was simple, I broke out the file and lowered the height of the plate so it would no longer make contact with the carrier. To test it, I set the gun vertically without the carrier springs and the bolt almost closed, while ensuring the hammer is held in place by the disconnector. Then I simply let the bolt carrier drop. It practically drops out of the gun now, while before it would hang when it hit the plate at the safety lever hole. This proved to be a major source of friction removed from my action that helped significantly.

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I profile both the hammer & underside of the carrier in GlassBolt to keep that from happening.

However, I keep the high point of the underside of the carrier at least .190" & match each hammer to each carrier, being as the carrier's specs are often varied unit to unit.

 

I'd suggest just profiling the hammer for a DIY'er after some of the abortions I've seen come through the shop.

If you mess up on the hammer, you can at least buy a new one.

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I don't think you need to really grind it all down so much as you just need to knock out of all the hard angles and shape it into one smooth continuous curve.

 

At least that is my understanding, I could of course be totally wrong and talking completely out of my ass. I don't know, I sent my shit off to Pauly. biggrin.png

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Thanks everybody. I compared the factory hammer to the new tapco one and the tapco hammer looks to be wider. How do i know when to stop grinding down the hammer?

 

Set the factory hammer and G2 hammer on a table with the face of the hammer pointing up, you should see that the G2 is "taller" on the face. As said above smooth it out and don't be afraid to remove some of the material on the G2, you can never put material back so don't over do it, Here is a link to pics of Cobra's work, there is a good picture of a rounded hammer, http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/65920-cobras-custom-trigger-pics/

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