the mechanic 11 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 My Tromix has a refinished receiver on the inside. The hammer face, carrier bottom and rails are coated too. The gun runs flawlessly. Which one of you "experts" wants to tell Tony he doesn't know what he's doing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bridis 319 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 I think if you read into this topic a bit you'd easily be able to tell that there isn't a specific definition to painting the inside of the firearm. There are many different types of material and techniques that could conceivably be used to “paint” a firearm. It doesn’t take an “expert” to know that using the wrong material or technique could gum up the inside of a firearm and affect how it functions. Throwing Tony’s name out there for question is pretty stupid too. I don’t think anyone here would question his work. But not every company/gunsmith is Tromix either. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 People, there is nothing wrong with painting the inside of the gun. Whatever problem this guy has is not related to the paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 I think if you read into this topic a bit you'd easily be able to tell that there isn't a specific definition to painting the inside of the firearm. There are many different types of material and techniques that could conceivably be used to “paint” a firearm. It doesn’t take an “expert” to know that using the wrong material or technique could gum up the inside of a firearm and affect how it functions. Throwing Tony’s name out there for question is pretty stupid too. I don’t think anyone here would question his work. But not every company/gunsmith is Tromix either. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) My Tromix has a refinished receiver on the inside. The hammer face, carrier bottom and rails are coated too. The gun runs flawlessly. Which one of you "experts" wants to tell Tony he doesn't know what he's doing? Is Tony going crazy with it? Probably not. Is he laying down a really thick coat or multiple thick coats on the internals? Probably not. I don't think you can categorize "painting the internals of a Saiga 12" into the "this is fine" category just because a competent professional does it. Is everyone beholden to an exact material, applied in the exact same manner, and the exact same thinckness on weapons that have had other reliability work done to them as well? No. Not apples to apples.... I have seen some "pros" do some boneheaded shit. Tony is not one of them. He is one of the very few that I would send a Saiga 12 if I were.... incompetent. I paint the inside of my receivers, but it is only given a very thin coat. Every bearing surface is masked off in an effort to retain whatever friction reduction benefit that has been achieved prior to refinishing. The factory finish is very thin and doesn't take much effort to remove, so just because they come that way from the factory it doesn't mean that all internal coating is fine. If someone goes crazy and lays down a substantial coat all over everything, an otherwise decent running Saiga 12 will likely not run so well on low base loads until the Duracoat/finish has worn down some. I have seen it. I'm no expert, but I work on my own weapons. They run Edited January 10, 2012 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robfromga 39 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Exactly, there's a difference between "it has paint on it" and "the thing is fucking coated". Really, is it that hard? This may not be so in the op's case, my gun runs better with polished rails. His obviously could have other problems. Saying paint doesn't hurt is like sayingjumping won't break your leg, there's a difference between 12" and 12'. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) Just to put the whole, "it's got to be painted or it will rust" issue to bed I wanted to share something... I cut off my tang on December 30th 2011. It is now January 10th 2012. That's eleven days of sitting on the ground, in the snow and the mud, I've got a piece of stainless steel that has developed surface rust in that time frame... Now I don't know what kind of weird steel the Russians use but I think it's safe to say that under normal use, these things simply won't rust... OP said that shells wouldn't even leave the chamber. I had a .22 that would do the same thing, once I cleaned all of the gunk that was in the chamber from thousands of rounds, it functioned fine. Yes it's true that some coatings, in thin coats, are fine, hell, some even PROMOTE lubricity but duracote isn't one of them. I'm not saying that once the paint is removed from the important surfaces that the gun will cycle flawlessly, but it WILL damn sure cycle better! EDIT: I got mad at my door a few days ago... Edited January 10, 2012 by Caged Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Exactly, there's a difference between "it has paint on it" and "the thing is fucking coated". Really, is it that hard? This may not be so in the op's case, my gun runs better with polished rails. His obviously could have other problems. Saying paint doesn't hurt is like sayingjumping won't break your leg, there's a difference between 12" and 12'. Excellent analogy.... made me chuckle too. I needed it today. Many thanks BTW All of the evlblk-Saiga 12s have polished rails and they run ok. No paint there.... just nice and shiny. Not so sure I could achieve the reliabilty that I have if there were a couple of coats of Duracoat on everything. I'm sure I would have to compensate for it somewhere else.... more port surface area, getting aggressive with tuning on the locking lugs, or playing with springs etc.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) Just to put the whole, "it's got to be painted or it will rust" issue to bed I wanted to share something... I cut off my tang on December 30th 2011. It is now January 10th 2012. That's eleven days of sitting on the ground, in the snow and the mud, I've got a piece of stainless steel that has developed surface rust in that time frame... Now I don't know what kind of weird steel the Russians use but I think it's safe to say that under normal use, these things simply won't rust... OP said that shells wouldn't even leave the chamber. I had a .22 that would do the same thing, once I cleaned all of the gunk that was in the chamber from thousands of rounds, it functioned fine. Yes it's true that some coatings, in thin coats, are fine, hell, some even PROMOTE lubricity but duracote isn't one of them. I'm not saying that once the paint is removed from the important surfaces that the gun will cycle flawlessly, but it WILL damn sure cycle better! EDIT: I got mad at my door a few days ago... Also, if the user lubes the internals, the stuff gets blown everywhere and creates a "protective coat". I have sweated on the receiver cover and had it rust a little after sitting for days. A little CLP on a rag and it went away. I think the Russians have developed some blend of steel that is laced with ultra IQ reducing lead. Kind of like how China was trying to kill the IQs of our new generations with lead paint on the toys.... Edited January 11, 2012 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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