Shroud cutting depth

[belbo 3]

I have read a lot and searched throughout the forum but I am still not sure where to cut. I have 2 saiga 7.62 x 39's and the just don;t look right without a flash hider or brake. One of the barrels is already threaded under the shroud and one is not. I'm going to tackle the threaded one first and I need some advice. How far down should I cut the shroud? How much space should I leave from the front sight post to expose the proper amount of threads.?

 

 

How far should I cut down on the other one to attempt a thread job myself?

 

 

Also, if you've had a good experience with a particular brake or FH, please suggest one.

 

Thanks

Edited August 20, 2012 by belbo

[Agent Lemon 157]

grats on the factory threaded. mil spec barrel?

 

I've never got a factory threaded barrel, but I was able to take some measurements for you.

 

On a u.s. made barrel for a kit, the threads were approximately 14.7mm long.

 

Then I also do "Saiga AKM" conversions, and thread the barrel to just the right length to work in harmony with a GB/FSB/clearning rod/slant brake/bayonet. They all approximately measure from 14.6mm to 14.9mm.

 

Also not sure if this will help, but my barrels are approximately 14.53mm thick at the FSB raised portion, and about 14.33mm thick at the portion where the threads would be, and the FSB sleeves are about 1.7mm thick.

[dayofruin 425]

Instead of cutting it off, you could drill out the indentations that are pressed into the sides. Then, beat it off with a dead blow plastic hammer. I did this to my gas block to remove it. The indentations are pressed into indentations in the barrel. Be careful not to drill into your barrel when doing this. I did mine at work with a carbide cutter on a mill. The depth varied from hole to hole. Zeroed on the shroud, depth of the indentations were between .070 and .085 inches. You'd be surprised how much 1/100th of and inch is.

[belbo 3]

I was going to leave the front sight on and just cut the shroud off in front of it to expose the threads. Seems like a safer route to go but I'm not sure.

 

 

Instead of cutting it off, you could drill out the indentations that are pressed into the sides. Then, beat it off with a dead blow plastic hammer. I did this to my gas block to remove it. The indentations are pressed into indentations in the barrel. Be careful not to drill into your barrel when doing this. I did mine at work with a carbide cutter on a mill. The depth varied from hole to hole. Zeroed on the shroud, depth of the indentations were between .070 and .085 inches. You'd be surprised how much 1/100th of and inch is.

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

I'll just toss my personal experience out there for you or anyone who might benefit from a couple of good ways to remove the FSB shroud to check for threads.

http://www.acehardwa...9462&cp=1260857

 

IMHO, the best way is to use a small pipe cutter, works great and won't cut too deep.

Once it completes the cut, the shroud sometimes noticeably moves/turns and/or pops off.

On a factory threaded barrel, the threads only go 5/8" back, not all the way to the FSB.

Cutting all the way back will leave a large gap between the FSB and a muzzle attachment... This avoids that.

Most small pipe cutters will not cut all the way back, most cut back .5" (9/16"), which is just shy of the threads factory base.

You can then index against the remaining shroud with a crush/peel washer.

.............................................

 

Dremel

Place barrel securely in vise

Mark shroud for cut... Circumferential.

Use a new cutoff wheel

Work slowly and cautiously and don't go too deep, mark your cutoff wheel, no deeper than 1/8"-3/16" or you risk cutting into the barrel.

Once you think your close, stick a screwdriver in the cut and try to pop it off.

If not, go a cunt hair deeper, repeat as necessary.

 

 

 

No Gap, flash hider is indexed with a crush washer.

 

 

There is about a +/- 30% chance of threads on any given 7.62 manufactured '09 or later, with dimpled receiver and displaying the features common to milspec barrels.

Even having all the milspec features doesn't mean threads, one simply must cut the shroud of to find out for sure.

Sometimes you can see the start of threads, sometimes you can't. Some folks say that threaded barrels have a beveled crown and that non-threaded don't.

Don't know how many times I've heard someone so excited, only to be disappointed, when they swore they had threads... And vice versa.

The only way to tell is cut the damned shroud off.

 

'09 manufacture...................... check

Dimpled receiver..................... check

Non stepped chamber............. check

Handguard retaining notches.... check

Chamber end of barrel beveled...check

 

No pic of my chamber, but it isn't stepped.

Edited August 20, 2012 by ChileRelleno

[belbo 3]

I cut part of the shroud off today and look what I found. Has anyone ran a suppressor with these factory threads? Are they concentric from the factory? Any experience with that? If not, which brake works the best?

 

Edited August 21, 2012 by belbo

[ChileRelleno 7,071]

Do realize that you've no need to remove any more of the factory shroud, than what you have there.

 

I'd say that unless Ivan was heavy into the vodka, yeah, the threads are concentric to the bore.

Don't recall anyone mentioning running a suppressor.

 

One of the best brakes is the, http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=57&idcategory=6

[skullface405420 45]

just be careful whatever you do, i fucked up a saiga once. had to go and get my good welder friend to tig on a flash surpressor. o well it was my first conversion and it was pretty beat up, got another one and did it right lol. the one i messed up DEF did not have threads underneith it. as far as the one i got now? i will just get a ak74 front sight post and do it that route if i really want it. plus i dig haveing a bayonet. but fact is i dont see myself doin the whole threading process myself..

[AK Fan 0]

Hello - I'm new to this forum and attempting to get some answers.

 

I'm aware that some Saigas have threaded barrels, from looking at crown area of mine (7.62x39, 3/09 manufacture) it appears it is threaded under shroud so, after reading extensively about the subject in this and other forums, I proceeded to cut into the shroud with a pipe cutter .

 

I used a Ridgid cutter, and oiled well during the cut. It did accomplish a clean cut somewhat less than 5/8" distance from crown and I stopped at about a depth I considered right, just a tad less than 1/8". The shroud did move just a tiny bit forward and I can peer into what appears to be the threaded barrel deep in the cut, so I'm pretty sure I've cut off the shroud and down to the barrel but the shroud is not moving. I tried hitting it with a wide flat screwdriver at about 45 deg. angle but no joy. Also tried twisting it out with pliers, no luck either.

 

Unless I haven't cut deep enough (which I don't think is the case) I'm not sure what's going on, I've read that once the shroud is cut off it moves or pops out freely, mine has not. And at this point I don't dare cut any deeper.

 

Any suggestions or ideas will be appreciated.

[BigChongus 765]

Use a Dremel with a very thin cutting disk and very carefully make a cut perpendicular to the one you already made. Put a screwdriver in the cut and twist it to break it off.

[Rhodes1968 1,638]

I just twisted gently with a pair of channel locks.

 

Yeah it is nerve racking the first time you do it, unnecessarily so. 

[SaigaFL 4]

The thickness of my shrouds were .070.

 

Muzzle brake questions: You Tube AK74 muzzle brakes

[semper299 284]

nm

Edited February 19, 2014 by Semper299