gmkimball 2 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 I went out shooting today and had some odd issues with Saiga. It was only my second time out with it and it seemed like the last shell in every mag I loaded would not fire. Sometimes more than the last shell but mostly the last in a 5 round factory mag. The first time I went out I didn't polish anything and had the factory puk and plug in and it ran flawless. It kicked hard so I figured it was over gassed. Today I ran it with the V-plug, twister puk, and polished bolt carrier and bolt and for some reason that last round stayed in the chamber and didn't fire. There was a small indent where the pin had hit with no ignition. I reloaded the rounds and fired them one at a time without issue. Maybe I set my plug on the wrong setting? I was using the green Remington express buck 3 3/4 when it happened. I also ran some 3" red winchester buck on the same setting and it kicked like a mule compared to the Remington's but no failures what so ever with them. Sorry for the lengthy story. If anyone has an idea please share. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Welcome to the forum! People will probably want to know what setting your V-plug was set at. Did you screw it all the way into the gas block? Just how much polishing did you do, especially to the bolt? I'm no expert, but I would double check my gas settings after switching back to the factory puck and give it another go. I am sure someone that knows what they are talking about will chime in with more info. The gun obviously runs, so just be patient and methodical about diagnosing the problem area. Most of all, use google to search this forum and keywords, and read a lot. Lots of good info here and helpful people too. Your answer may be just a search away... Keep us posted on how it goes! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gmkimball 2 Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 I was curious if maybe the firing pin wast hitting the primer hard enough. The spent shells had a distinct dent in the center of the primer cap were as the ones that didn't fire had an undefined dent but still a dent. I'm using JTE performance power hammer spring along with the G2 trigger and hammer. I read all of the posts and threads about polishing and did far less grinding than the safe amount on the bolt and carrier. Just enough to load on a closed bolt. I'll see if I can post some pictures of my V-plug setting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) The spring has to be tuned. I had this same problem. I just replaced it with the stock spring. I really didnt care for the Difference i feltmin the pull. Edited August 22, 2012 by TIMTIMTIM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 There you go! Seems most problems people have with these guns stems directly from doing too much too fast. Luckily this one seems to be an easy fix! Post back with results, and let us know how it goes, BeastMode. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BB1980 71 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Some people have trouble with the recoil spring bowing downward and stopping or slowing down the hammer as it pivots at the top of its travel. You may try taking the top cover off, but leaving the recoil spring in. Cycle the gun manually (unloaded or with a spent shell in) and pull the trigger and see if it looks like the recoil spring is slowing the hammer. Do this 15-20 times and see if it looks like its making the recoil spring bow down every now and then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Welcome aboard. Seems like those that actually fire their weapons don't take long finding out which aftermarket parts can be problematic. I stick to the factory springs and never have problems, but I go pretty deep into things to achieve reliability. Worth the effort, IMO. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gmkimball 2 Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Thanks for the advice. I'll try and check the recoil spring tomorrow. If it looks good I may switch out the hammer spring and put the original back in. I was under the impression that the JTE spring was stronger, therefore providing a more powerful snap from the hammer to the pin... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/77122-jt-engineering-mainspring/ Have you seen that thread? I run an OE spring as well and have no issues or need/want for the potential refinement of the JTE spring but alot of guys swear by it and alot don't. JT Engineering knows his shit tho and wouldn't sell or produce a bunk product. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gmkimball 2 Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 I didn't see that thread. Thank for pointing that out. I had no idea it might need tuning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) The whole point of it is a tunable spring that can be set lighter or firmer to run the smoothest possible in a gun geared towards competition. The saiga 12 is designed to run the broadest possible range of ammo from full house 3" mags to 3 dram 1 1/8 oz low brass. Competition guys tend to buy their ammo by the pallet and maybe tune to run one type of birdshot and one slug very very well, with the absolute minimum of recoil, and smoothest action. They don't need versatility. A formula one car isn't intended to deal with pot holes or variances in fuel. Edited August 22, 2012 by GunFun 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Shoot the gun stock, until it runs 100% THEN change one part at a time, and tune the gun. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
45Bretired 19 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Don't ever change springs. Ever! If it's not working with factory springs it's another problem. Not the spring tension. Just for giggles I put the reduced spring in and recoil increased dramatically. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gmkimball 2 Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Yea, I'm about to take it out and put the factory one back in. On a + note, I now have a spare in case something dramatic happens to the factory one! Nothing wrong with spare parts! Thanks everyone for the help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
45Bretired 19 Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Your welcome Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 So, you do realize that you can in fact make your spare spring stronger than the factory one by bending at the correct point? However, increasing the amount of work it takes to reset the hammer affects how much gas impulse is needed to cycle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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