Slugs For Cheap

[TheJoe90 27]

Good Job!

[Marc 147]

Be very careful about water around your molten lead. Water sinks quickly to the bottom of the pot where it rapidly turns into superheated steam that explodes to the surface carrying your lead with it...a fly landing in your lead is all it takes to give you a bad day.

 

Good lookin slugs!

[Squishy 1,149]

Thanks guys.

 

I think getting the mold too hot might be problematic. And/or it could have to do with too little lubrication on the locating ring. Does lead bond with aluminum at high temps? I had a helluva time getting the lead out of the locating ring groove. I smoked the mold before I started and then after cleaning it about halfway through. Maybe there's something better to use?

 

 

 

 

Couldn't have done it without a Dremel.

Edited October 1, 2012 by Squishy

[RED333 1,025]

Well I have seen lead stick, I use a wire brush when the mold is hot, stuff comes right off.

Brass works well, Bronze will also work, the little tooth brush size.

In a pinch, a barrel brush will work too.

[Squishy 1,149]

Well I have seen lead stick, I use a wire brush when the mold is hot, stuff comes right off.

Brass works well, Bronze will also work, the little tooth brush size.

In a pinch, a barrel brush will work too.

 

I need to get a brass tooth brush type brush then and do this when the mold is hot. I mistakenly thought it would come when everything cooled the way lead does from most everything else. The Dremel wheel I used was brass.

[Squishy 1,149]

Another thing I've read recently, bullet casters talking about this mentions that pure lead or almost pure lead requires high molten lead temps and a very hot mold. One solution mentioned (taken with a grain of salt) is adding tin in either a 40 to 1 or 20 to 1 ratio. Ever hear of this? Where would one get tin?

[RED333 1,025]

I think you will be alright, start look at you mold every 10 or 20 or 30 casts to see how things look.

Soon you will find the heat and temp that works for you.

I watch how fast the sprue cools. If I think it is to hot, stick in some water.

just stick it in and pull it right out, it will cool a LOT with just a 1 second quench.

I have mine so hot the sprue did not cool for a few sceonds, like 5 to 7, way to long, means way to hot.

The sprue should cool in 2 to 4 seconds.

You will get the hang of it, ya done real good so far.

 

Plumbers solder, for tin, it wont take much, mabey 2 to 3 inchs per pound.

Google "cast boolits"

Lots of info there on lead and its alloys.

[gunfun 3,931]

I just wanted to thank you experienced guys for the detailed info.

[Squishy 1,149]

I just wanted to thank you experienced guys for the detailed info.

 

+1 - Me too...

[Sneak 81]

Nice job man. Keep up the good work. You inspire me to want to start this when I get time this winter.

[Squishy 1,149]

I'm confident I'll get the hang of this and it seems that there's more margin for error with slugs, especially for my indoor, short range purposes. If I were going to seriously try and reach out with a smooth bore I'd either reload from the ground up or buy commercial slugs.

 

What I'm concerned with now is the whole theme of this thread and this "for cheap". We've talked about opening crimps or simply cutting the top off and I've cut a hole in the top which works pretty well. The thing is, no matter which you do there's going to be some "play" where the slug can move forward or back in the shell. This is more pronounced with a 7/8 oz slug as it's shorter than a 1 oz slug. So what I'm thinking is getting some parrafin wax and just pouring some into the end of the shell to hold the slug. It would not have to be a precise amount IMO.

 

Here's one I cut the top out of with a hole saw;

 

 

There is 3/16" of "travel" from back to front with a 7/8 oz Lee slug. Another thing I've thought of is the Lyman mold. It's longer than a 7/8 oz Lee but is it bigger in diameter?

 

Thanks Sneak, up where you are I'm not sure you'll be able to do this outdoors so you'll have to setup something to give the right ventilation. Here in SC the weather is warm on into the winter but ambient temperature always has to be taken into consideration I'm guessing.

Edited October 1, 2012 by Squishy

[Marc 147]

I hope this is just an optical illusion in your pic, but it looks as though the edges of the slug cavity in the "clean" pic have been rounded off from the wire wheel in the dremel. It is very important for the edges to be sharp, any nicks or rounding of the edges is guaranteed to cast flashing on your slugs.

[Squishy 1,149]

I hope this is just an optical illusion in your pic, but it looks as though the edges of the slug cavity in the "clean" pic have been rounded off from the wire wheel in the dremel. It is very important for the edges to be sharp, any nicks or rounding of the edges is guaranteed to cast flashing on your slugs.

 

I've looked at this from every possible direction and while there are scratches there, it doesn't look rounded like it does in the photo. But, if it is I'll either deal with it after the slug is cast or buy a new mold. For me sometimes hosing stuff up is the price of my education. Next time I'll use a wire brush and do the cleaning while the mold is hot as Red suggested. One thing about it is it doesn't appear the mold block itself can be replaced, the pins appear to be pressed in never to be removed. I could be wrong though.

[rs51085 136]

The thing is, no matter which you do there's going to be some "play" where the slug can move forward or back in the shell. This is more pronounced with a 7/8 oz slug as it's shorter than a 1 oz slug. So what I'm thinking is getting some parrafin wax and just pouring some into the end of the shell to hold the slug. It would not have to be a precise amount IMO.

 

what works well to solve this problem is a 20 ga 1/8" nitro card under the slug. it takes up all the extra space for my reload data. the extra space you end up with is dependent on several factors.

1. the wad you are using.

2. the type of powder that is used.

3. the type of crimp, star or roll crimp.

4. the size of the slug.

5. the type of hull.

 

they make nitro cards in different thicknesses.

 

here you can see it in a federal 12s4 wad

and here it is in the loaded hull with some other shells that have been reloaded with lee slugs.

Edited October 1, 2012 by rogers

[Squishy 1,149]

Thanks for the input and photos Rogers. What I'm talking about here is the slug for shot substitution. I'm sure the difference could be made up in a number of ways if you're starting from scratch. To me, the wax seems to be the best way IF, there is no crimp. I may yet figure out how to do this without messing up the end of the shell. Some have figured it out.

[TheJoe90 27]

Thanks for the input and photos Rogers. What I'm talking about here is the slug for shot substitution. I'm sure the difference could be made up in a number of ways if you're starting from scratch. To me, the wax seems to be the best way IF, there is no crimp. I may yet figure out how to do this without messing up the end of the shell. Some have figured it out.

 

A few thoughts from someone who has excellent comprehension and no hands on experience with loading.

 

1: I wonder if the slugs would feel as loose with the federal hulls? I will have to do a comparison once I have slugs to test fit....

 

2: You can remove the wad and put a card under it (Or a different style wad) with only a minimal amount of increased effort.

 

3: Maybe cutting the crimp aint the best way to go, perhaps you could take a step back and find a tool that allows you to easily open the crimp in the chosen hull?

 

Keep up the awesome work! Every step you take Im learning from your mistakes....

[Groovy Mike 36]

RED - That tip to use never seize was AWESOME!

I cast 400 slugs this weekend. When my mold started sticking on one side I painted theentir interior with never seize and after that it worked like magic.

 

WARNING TO NEW CASTERS - anything that boils in lead can make teh lead explode and splash on you - that includes water and in this case grease. Be VERY cautious if you put anything inside your mold besides lead. What I did was wipe it down to a thin layer and then very carefully poured in about 1 quarter mold full of lead - then removed it and poured about a half mold full of lead. My intent was to let anyting that needed to boil and steam have plenty of room to work out through the spru / pour hole and it worked fine. Just be careful.

 

Pouring 400 slugs took way too long. At least 4 hours plus set up and clean up. If I cast more slugs for anyone else I am going to charge 25 cents each!

 

On the loose crimp question - as said above a different combination of hull and wad will fill the hull differently. A nitro card or two under your slug should make a better fit in your straight swap into factory ammo scenario.

Edited October 1, 2012 by Groovy Mike

[Squishy 1,149]

1: I wonder if the slugs would feel as loose with the federal hulls? I will have to do a comparison once I have slugs to test fit....

 

Actually, it's very tight in a Federal "Game Load" 3 1/4 Dram 1290 FPS. And, the Federal hull appears to be much more stiff. I'm not sure if it's the thickness of the plastic the cup is made of, the hull plastic thickness or both.

 

 

I put this into a magazine and it loaded into the chamber just fine

 

2: You can remove the wad and put a card under it (Or a different style wad) with only a minimal amount of increased effort.

 

Actually I'm leery of doing anything to add steps, time or trouble. This makes takes it closer and closer to a full reload. The idea I have is to do this substitution in the easiest least expensive way.

 

3: Maybe cutting the crimp aint the best way to go, perhaps you could take a step back and find a tool that allows you to easily open the crimp in the chosen hull?

 

I'm fairly sure a tool that allows easy opening of the crimp doesn't exist. Obviously a lot of people have figured out how to do it in a way that makes it easy for them but when I've tried it it's a PITA and I often end up messing up the end of the shell getting it closed again which will create feed problems. Opening the crimp is one thing but then it has to be fully opened with something like a screw driver handle so the slug and be slipped in. I tried doing this last night and the hull split in one of the crimp folds.

 

Every step you take Im learning from your mistakes....

 

Then you should learn a lot, cause I'm making them...

Edited October 1, 2012 by Squishy

[Groovy Mike 36]

 

3: Maybe cutting the crimp aint the best way to go, perhaps you could take a step back and find a tool that allows you to easily open the crimp in the chosen hull?

 

I'm fairly sure a tool that allows easy opening of the crimp doesn't exist. Obviously a lot of people have figured out how to do it in a way that makes it easy for them but when I've tried it it's a PITA and I often end up messing up the end of the shell getting it closed again which will create feed problems. Opening the crimp is one thing but then it has to be fully opened with something like a screw driver handle so the slug and be slipped in. I tried doing this last night and the hull split in one of the crimp folds.

 

Every step you take Im learning from your mistakes....

 

Then you should learn a lot, cause I'm making them...

 

lol, with a reloading press to recrimp the opened star crimp it is a piece of cake to lever them open with a set of needle nosed pliers, and then recrimp. I would not even consider cutting the hull an option .... But that's just my two cents....

[Squishy 1,149]

lol, with a reloading press to recrimp the opened star crimp it is a piece of cake to lever them open with a set of needle nosed pliers, and then recrimp. I would not even consider cutting the hull an option .... But that's just my two cents....

 

Opening the crimp so that you can dump the shot is not the hard part for me, how do you get the end of the shell fully opened so that you can insert a slug? Others have mentioned a screw driver handle, how do you do it?

[rs51085 136]

 

Opening the crimp so that you can dump the shot is not the hard part for me, how do you get the end of the shell fully opened so that you can insert a slug? Others have mentioned a screw driver handle, how do you do it?

 

this is where a lee load all 2 would solve some problems. in this picture you can see the fingers that hold the hull open so that you can insert the slug. you just put the slug on top of the fingers, the hull underneath, and press it in.

 

 

 

 

here is a close up of the fingers.

 

the lee load all 2 will also solve the crimping issue as you already know.

 

 

 

What I'm talking about here is the slug for shot substitution. I'm sure the difference could be made up in a number of ways if you're starting from scratch.

 

there is no reason that you couldn't use the nitro cards with the slug substitution. Just put it on top of the wad and under the slug. if you want a few to test before you buy let me know and i will mail you a few.

[Squishy 1,149]

Thanks Rogers, yet again you've provided valuable input. And I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit I have a Load All 2 but incorrectly assumed it was primarily for use with a pristine, never before crimped hull. You may wonder how a man could live to reach my age with such a propensity for erroneous assumptions.

[Groovy Mike 36]

Your load all will solve your problem!!!

 

I open the hull with a closed pair of needle nosed pliers - when closed they are wedge shaped so I just roll them around the outside of the hull. I have also used the handle of the cork screw I use when I want to pulla wad out.......

 

But use teh Lee Load All ! that will make your life soooooo much easier it will be silly.

[rs51085 136]

totally would not stress it man. this is what this thread is all about. i wish there was a thread like this when i started casting and reloading. i have learned a few things myself from this thread. i have had my fare share of hot lead eruptions, and in general just not knowing what i was doing. The first time i cast slugs it was a disaster. I had hot lead running in the floor, burns on my arms, hands and face, and i swore i would never do it again. So i read some directions, did a lot of research on line, cleaned up my mess and tried again. I keep getting better at it every time i do it. making mistakes is the best way to learn, unfortunately it can be expensive and dangerous. you have made a lot of progress in a short time period so keep up the good work and let us know how they shoot!

Edited October 1, 2012 by rogers

[Squishy 1,149]

Yes, it made things simple, well, with one exception. You must open the crimp to a point so the Load All can open them the rest of the way and then hold them open. The problem I had was inserting the slug. If you set what is basically a flat bottomed slug in a concave space and then push the slug wants to turn sideways. I loaded two like this and had to dig them out. I guess you could use the LL2 to open the crimp and then place the slug by hand into the hull. Then reinsert into the LL2 and close the crimp.

 

Am I missing something?

[Groovy Mike 36]

when you dump the shot you have a hull with powder and wad in place.

put it in the Lee Load all in the center position normally used to seat a wad.

This will put the hull under the guide that has black plastic "fingers" attached to the press pointed down inside the hull.

Normally you then put the wad on top and pull teh handle down using the rod to push the wad through the hole and into the hull (inside the black finger guides).

Instead place the slug where the wad would go (hollow base down). Puh the lever down and it should slip teh slug through the guide, into the hull and on top of the wad.

Take the hull and slug to the crimp starter, work the handle and start the crimp.

Move the hull to the final crimping stage and work the press again closing the crimp

 

I have not seated the slugs like this but it SHOULD work.....

[Squishy 1,149]

Ok, well at least I'm on the right track. As I said in the earlier post, when I try this, forcing what amounts to a cylinder into a concave space (wedge) there is nothing to keep the slug from turning sideways. I tried it twice and twice the slug went into the hull sideways. It doesn't help that this slug is top heavy. If there was something to slip over the "male" plunger to insert the head of the slug into to keep it going straight down it would help. Then, once the base of the slug is inside the end of the shell this insert would have to be removed so that the plunger could push the slug the rest of the way into the shell. A Lyman slug might be different but it's hard to see how it would be easier as it has a flat base also.

 

But, no matter what the LL2 still provides the best way to fully open the crimp and then close it.

[Groovy Mike 36]

I'll try it when I get home in a few hours...

[AJ Dual 43]

Yes, it made things simple, well, with one exception. You must open the crimp to a point so the Load All can open them the rest of the way and then hold them open. The problem I had was inserting the slug. If you set what is basically a flat bottomed slug in a concave space and then push the slug wants to turn sideways. I loaded two like this and had to dig them out. I guess you could use the LL2 to open the crimp and then place the slug by hand into the hull. Then reinsert into the LL2 and close the crimp.

 

Am I missing something?

You are missing this:

 

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-no-0-x-2-1-2-in-screwdriver/p-00941293000P?&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1

 

The clear plastic handle of a 2-1/2" long Craftsman #0 Phillips is PERFECT for jamming into a crimp. You stuff the handle end straight into the crimp petals, just below the crimped ring where the petals start, and you remove it while bending it out, just like you would making a "pop" sound with your finger in your mouth or the opening of a bottle, and it fully unfolds the crimp petals the rest of the way and flattens open the ring part crimp. 2-3 times per slug rotating 180 or 120 degrees will get it done.

 

Mrs. Dual is going to be peevish enough about "gun stuff" as it is, since I have my club meeting tonight, but hopefully I can convince her to hold the phone for me and I can make a YouTube of this tonight. Maybe tomorrow etc. if she's too cranky.

 

Wear a glove, the shaft and the phillips bit on the other end will give you a blister in your palm. I know. Honestly, I should just take the screwdriver and epoxy the bit end into a file handle or something to make for a better grip.

[Squishy 1,149]

Thanks, if there was a way for the LA2 to hold the slug straight as it goes down the LA2 could handle the whole thing. It has the capability to open the crimp further, press the slug into the cup, but the slug tries to turn as shown here;

 

 

As I said, the LA2 is useful for opening the crimp far enough to allow insertion of a tool to opening it completely and the ability to close the crimp after the payload is inserted, if the slug could be held vertically as it's pressed down it could do it all.

 

And by all means, keep Mrs. Dual happy, it's job #1.

 

Thanks for pointing out the screw driver, the round handle end is perfect for this, doing it "manually" that is.

Edited October 1, 2012 by Squishy