RGVBadBoy 9 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 So, I'm putting the R&R Targets AR style safety selector switch on my S12 and am trying to remove the scope mount on the side of my S12 receiver, can anyone give me some tips? Maybe post a link? Or ANYTHING that would help me remove this thing, I've got plenty of experience working with AKs, I've just never wanted to remove one until now and I NEED IT GONE!!! Thanks guys.. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 (edited) I center punch the rivet heads and carefully drill them off with a bit that is the same size as the rivet shaft. After that is done properly, the rail can be pried off without much effort. Then knock the rivets out of the receiver with a punch. I use the rails to replace Romanian rails when I want to install an AK100 on anything Romanian because the rear rivet hole of the Romy rail doesn't match with the Russian rear block. Hope this helps. Looks so clean without it.... Edited September 14, 2012 by evlblkwpnz 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Squishy 1,149 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 The most rearward rivet goes through the trunnion, when you welded the back plate on for the folder did you completely remove it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BpS12 512 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 I used a Dremel with a cut off blade and then tapped the rivets flat useing a hard surface on the opposite side. Looks like it was made that way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
filthygovemploye 64 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 i bought one with it omitted, lolz!! as with all rivets, ya just drill hte head off...good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RGVBadBoy 9 Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 I center punch the rivet heads and carefully drill them off with a bit that is the same size as the rivet shaft. After that is done properly, the rail can be pried off without much effort. Then knock the rivets out of the receiver with a punch. I use the rails to replace Romanian rails when I want to install an AK100 on anything Romanian because the rear rivet hole of the Romy rail doesn't match with the Russian rear block. Hope this helps. Looks so clean without it.... Awesome, that is what I'll do then, I have one out completely, the one in the front, I'm changing the rear trunnion out for the SGM AR adapter, so I needed to remove that one anyway, that middle one looks like its going to be the biggest problem.... Thanks again for your insight, you are a true asset to the Saiga community. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewoketeer 35 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 I plan on keeping mine. It makes possible putting on a long range (grenade) sight. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 I center punch the rivet heads and carefully drill them off with a bit that is the same size as the rivet shaft. After that is done properly, the rail can be pried off without much effort. Then knock the rivets out of the receiver with a punch. I use the rails to replace Romanian rails when I want to install an AK100 on anything Romanian because the rear rivet hole of the Romy rail doesn't match with the Russian rear block. Hope this helps. Looks so clean without it.... Thanks again for your insight, you are a true asset to the Saiga community. unfounded internet rumor I would like to hear your impressions of the SGM adapter and I am curious about the weight of it. Post some pics when you get it done. I am particularly interested in whether or not it makes the AR tube line up with the bore or not. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RGVBadBoy 9 Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 I center punch the rivet heads and carefully drill them off with a bit that is the same size as the rivet shaft. After that is done properly, the rail can be pried off without much effort. Then knock the rivets out of the receiver with a punch. I use the rails to replace Romanian rails when I want to install an AK100 on anything Romanian because the rear rivet hole of the Romy rail doesn't match with the Russian rear block. Hope this helps. Looks so clean without it.... Thanks again for your insight, you are a true asset to the Saiga community. unfounded internet rumor I would like to hear your impressions of the SGM adapter and I am curious about the weight of it. Post some pics when you get it done. I am particularly interested in whether or not it makes the AR tube line up with the bore or not. Will do, I need to re tap it though, from what I read, it is threaded for commercial tubes, the Nordic Components Retractable Stock i'm using is a mil spec item, I'll post pics as soon as I can. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 I center punch the rivet heads and carefully drill them off with a bit that is the same size as the rivet shaft. After that is done properly, the rail can be pried off without much effort. Then knock the rivets out of the receiver with a punch. I use the rails to replace Romanian rails when I want to install an AK100 on anything Romanian because the rear rivet hole of the Romy rail doesn't match with the Russian rear block. Hope this helps. Looks so clean without it.... Thanks again for your insight, you are a true asset to the Saiga community. unfounded internet rumor I would like to hear your impressions of the SGM adapter and I am curious about the weight of it. Post some pics when you get it done. I am particularly interested in whether or not it makes the AR tube line up with the bore or not. Will do, I need to re tap it though, from what I read, it is threaded for commercial tubes, the Nordic Components Retractable Stock i'm using is a mil spec item, I'll post pics as soon as I can. If you are referring to the threads (as if where the tube threads into an AR lower), Milspec and commercial are the same. The diameter of the tube where the stock slides back and forth, sometimes the length of that part of the tube, and sometimes the angle of the rear of the tube are the only major differences. No tapping needed. I'm digging that Nordic unit. That would be sick on an SBS. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Goose 95 Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 (edited) Removing the side mount pretty easy. I can't say anything about it if you plan on keeping the original trunnion, but I was replacing mine so I just went ahead and drilled out the other two rivets. Hell if you don't plan on keeing the mount for something else you can use a bit the same size as the heads themselves as long as you don't go all the way through to the receiver. Evl, as for the SGM I can tell ya that I love it so far, it's solid and simple, it'll appeal to you for sure. I didn't look through it before I threaded my stock, specifically to see if the tube lined up with the bbl, but it is def centered in the rear of the receiver. I did a (not completely sober) write up in the thread I'm listing below, I'm sorry though I dont have a camera. When I take it to work next I'll have one of the guys in the shop take a picture and email it to me though. The OP of the thread below has some pics up, although his tube isn't threaded all the way in, it's just mocked up. RGV is there too lol. http://forum.saiga-1...-trunion-mount/ spelling edit Edited September 16, 2012 by Goose Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 (edited) I was wondering if the adapter would place the tube in line with the bore, as the red line shows. Many thanks for the link, Goose, as it lead to me being able to answer my own question. ETA: it would probably help if I explained why this matters to me. If the comb of the stock is pretty much in line with the bore or close, perceived recoil and muzzle rise is reduced. The comb of most AR stocks is usually dictated by where the tube is unless it is a precision shooting stock (read: fancy adjustable stock, lol) Edited September 16, 2012 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RGVBadBoy 9 Posted September 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 The Nordic threaded right into the SGM, I haven't had a chance to work on it, but I know its going to line up, that safety selector is going to be a problem clearing the Nordic though, good thing I'm going with an AR style safety. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RGVBadBoy 9 Posted September 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 Okay, I got the SGM trunnion installed, it looks like the when the stock is completely collapsed that the safey selector does hit the guide rod, but it doesn't interfere with function, this does not concern me as I've stated before, these are the pics I got, hopefully y'all can see what you need, if not I'll take more, sorry for the amature workmanship, I'm jsut a hobbiest:) By mikeg253 at 2012-09-16 By mikeg253 at 2012-09-16 By mikeg253 at 2012-09-16 By mikeg253 at 2012-09-16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Goose 95 Posted September 17, 2012 Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 Somebody could do a really slick MP5-esk SBS with that thing... *cou(evlblkwpnz)gh* 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 17, 2012 Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 Somebody could do a really slick MP5-esk SBS with that thing... *cou(evlblkwpnz)gh* There is no telling what I might do once I get rolling with the new venture. Seems like things have stagnated for a while. I hope top change that and bring some new and interesting ideas to the platform.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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