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Don't know how well this post will go over lol.


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Well, I paid $40 for my NFA stripped lower. But a hundo isn't much. However, this is a lightweight build using the lightest, reasonably priced components I can get. Poly lower, semi bolt, rogers stock, midlength system, shaved gas block, mbus sights, micro dot. Should be pretty light, and I feel confident in the lower when used as intended: as a rifle. You could go with a 12" or 14" barrel with pinned flash hider, especially pencil profile, but I think I like the 16" 'Optimum' profile (between standard and pencil). I may get it fluted by adco, probably after getting a carbon free-float handuard. Meaning, right after I win the lottery. There are some inexpensive FF handguards only a few ounces more than carbon, but way out there the weight is more noticeable.

 

For any larger round though, is do alum lower. With midlength system I'm not worried about it in 5.56. Especially if you run the Ace ultralight rifle length stock and buffer. Recoil should be very manageable, and not beat up the lower. The Ace is about 2 ounces heavier than the Rogers though.

Edited by mostholycerebus
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bRgSY.jpg

However, after reading literally hundreds of threads, ive concluded these types of failures generally occur due to 'operators' striking things with the butstock. These failures are not unheard of on aluminum lowers either, again usually overly enthusiastic butt-strokers.

Some of those failures are a result of the weapon failing to extract and the operator having to mortar the rifle to get the bolt to move. Of course there are accidents as well, going prone too hard, etc. Most kabooms with ARs will follow the path of least resistance and blow through the mag and magwell. I think I'd stick to the aluminum lower for a little extra insurance.

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I have both a Plum Crazy and an NFA poly lower as well as Billet and forged aluminum lowers.

 

The picture of the broken lower that is posted here has made it around all the gun forums and was actually replaced under warranty. This is not "common" for the total number that have been made and are in the hands of users.

 

I agree that if it is a combat gun, the best bet is aluminum. For a cheap plinker that doesn't get used as a ladder, bridge, sledgehammer, pry bar, or other hard uses, there is nothing wrong with the poly lowers and they save a decent amount of weight.

 

The cost of a complete aluminum lower is about $60-$100 more depending on the parts availability as the NFA and plum are COMPLETE WITH LPK AND STOCK. Figure in that a stock kit runs about $50 and a LPK runs around $55 for the cheaper type before shipping. PSA sometimes has combo kits for around $100.

 

I built a plinker with all shipping, transfer fees and replacement parts costs totaling $472 before optics (I put the upper together with parts - Aero Upper & Charging Handle from Surplus Ammo $54 & $15 shipped, Sota Arms Barrel & gas system $89 & $32 + shipping, Red X Free Float & BCG $30 & $99 shipped).

 

A big +1 on replacing the detents and takedown pins with metal (about $12). Also the buffer is noisy as its internal weights rattle so I replaced that too.

Edited by BuffetDestroyer
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the lowers I get are $250 for AR-15 and $350 for AR-10 all are milspec grade hard anodized (about $70 in the cost is that) and the builder barely makes money on them.

 

the mill work on them is amazing. Also the closest in quality out of a lower is $100-200, so they are actually quite the bargain.

 

I would rather take a little longer to build (ie more time to save $) and build quality.

 

It's just like my friends that go el cheapo with car mods, you can pay more now, or pay more later.

 

Time, Quality, Money: Pick 2

Edited by Syndicate
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I built my old lady an ar built on one of these with a dsa upper that works pretty good. Albeit she has maybe 100 rounds through it and only a mag at a time. She is real small and only 90 pounds so i wanted as light wieght as possible. In its life this ar may see 500 rounds so i figure it would work. Thay and i couldnt see painting a good ar pink.

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Well I canceled my order ...

 

Got word I'm getting a little extra $$ in two weeks -- so now I think I want an SGL21 or Mossberg AR. What's the going rate now for Arsenals $800-1000 ? I I think an Arsenal would make an awesome companion to my .223 ... and for $800 I'd rather pick up an arsenal over an AR ...

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