Is a Dedicated Firearm Cleaning Kit Necessary?

[JDeko 792]

I've cleaned out the receiver of my Saiga a couple of times with a rag gym sock and when it got rained on pushed a wad of "loo roll" through with a dowel as some cheeky British chap suggested. I've learned I need to buy some gun solvent but aside from that what else is actually needed.

 

I'm especially asking for the sake of my Tokarev since I don't know if its as much of a tank as my Saiga, I've noticed wear on the part I assume is the extractor, I'm not quite familiar with gun anatomy yet but its the thing on the opposite side when I pull the slide back and can look at the guts inside. I was freaked out when I first saw it because I thought it was rust but it looks more like transferred brass. 

 

Either way I looked into cleaning kits/how to clean a pistol and it talked about cloth patches and the like. Both my guns came with bore brushes, though I don't have a snake for the Saiga. Aside from solvent [if I even need dedicated gun solvent] what else do I really need to clean my guns and keep them from undue damage?

[yakdung 2,926]

All my guns I simply use Bore Snakes and a mil-spec lube / cleaner.

[YOT 3,742]

You should use powder solvent, not gun solvent. Hoppe's #9 is best, then finish with a gun oil. The proper sized brush is a good idea, too. Boresnakes are quick and easy for the barrel, but it's hard to tell if it's truly clean without white patches and a rod. Old tub socks are good rags, as are old tshirts and skivies.

[Sim_Player 1,939]

Hoppes #9, a shoe string, a clean rag (cut into patches), and a toothbrush work great, IMHO.

[JDeko 792]

I'll definitely pick up some Hoppe's then, good thing I didn't buy the CLP. 

[Doug Hartley 526]

Bore Snake, old rags, q-tips, old tooth brush and some kind of oil, (I like Tri-Flo).  I have some fancy rods, jags and brushes but I never use them, always go to the Bore Snake.

 

Doug

[forsaken352 235]

I've been using Winchester cleaning kits from Walmart for a long time, and without fail, they all seem to break, strip threads, bend, etc. It's shit. After that, I picked up some Boresnakes. They work quite well, but they DO get dirty quick, and I didn't want to continually re-use them as it would essentially just be putting shit back down the bores of my firearms. So, I went ahead and bought some Dewey cleaning rods awhile back. The rods are nylon coated, and on ball bearings (the handles). I got them in shotgun, .30 cal, .22cal, and pistol at appropriate lengths for each (longer than any bore I have. Too long is fine, too short is obviously bad. There is no comparison, whatsoever, to any other "cleaning kit" I've used. The shotgun and pistol rods both lack the ball bearing handles, as they are not necessary, and the pistol is un-coated brass (not sure why, but it is.). The quality is top notch and well worth it. Just be sure to pick up a surplus of brushes and jags for each because the threads are specific to them (adapters are available, though.).

 

As far as cleaning supplies, I always just used Hoppes Elite foaming gun cleaner, Elite or #9 oil, more recently began using Lubriplate, Q-tips, T-shirts, picked up a pack of bronze, stainless steel, and nylon brushes, and paper towels.

 

What I do for actual cleaning of the bore is:

 

• Shotgun: If the bore isn't that dirty, I might just soak it in some "gun cleaner", let it sit, then rip patches from the shirt and push them through until clean. Next, I'll grab the bore snake, and add a little oil to the front (just so it's not pull through dry), and run it through (I find this helps get every last speck). Finally, I'll soak a patch in oil, run it through, call it good. Usually, the bore is very shiny and obviously clean at this point. If it's "shot to hell" dirty, then same procedure, but use a brush with the "gun cleaner".

 

• Rifle/Handgun: I'm a little more anal about rifled bores. It's basically the same as above, except I "prefer" to only push the rods in one direction, breech to muzzle. If that's not possible (like the M1A, for example), just be very careful of your crown, so you don't damage it. A good cleaning rod guide helps.

 

Aside from all that, I just oil all metal parts, not including any parts which are in the gas system, or firing pin/pin channels, and I grease parts which are more prone to wear (i.e. the carrier and rails of an AK, or just about anything in the M1A. Damn grease hog. I love it!).

Also:

 

 

 

 

 

Extractor is the "hook".

[JDeko 792]

Ah, I guess the part I was concerned with is just the far end of the slide. And in the daylight it just looks chrome so I think the rest might just be black because its dirty. Its certainly shiny so I doubt its rusty [i also doubt a Russian, well Serbian/Yugo, handgun would rust that fast].

 

 

Edited December 15, 2015 by JDeko

[Capt Nemo 882]

I'll definitely pick up some Hoppe's then, good thing I didn't buy the CLP. 

 

Buy the CLP too!  Clean the bore with Hoppe's and then everything else with CLP.  CLP and powder gas likes making varnish, so keep it out of those areas.

[Hawk451 2,230]

 

I'll definitely pick up some Hoppe's then, good thing I didn't buy the CLP. 

 

Buy the CLP too!  Clean the bore with Hoppe's and then everything else with CLP.  CLP and powder gas likes making varnish, so keep it out of those areas.

 

^This^ Also a dab of grease (just about any kind will do) for the rails & camming surfaces of the bolt & carrier.

[Remek 771]

I use a snake for quick clean.

 

I use a full kit with patches and hoppes #9 for good clean.

 

I've switched from frog lube (my gun doesnt get wet) to militec-1 for oil.

 

Of course, the saiga gets lithium grease instead.

Edited December 16, 2015 by Remek

[G O B 3,516]

A cleaning rod and a brush and some jags for patches. A bottle of Hoppe's #9 (real men smell of hoppe's #9 and cigars!) and a quart of synthetic 0W30 is as copllete of a gun care kit as most will ever need in their lifetime!

[Doug Hartley 526]

Mobil 1 is great synthetic oil, buy a quart and it will last your whole life!  I use Tri-Flo on rifles and shotguns and Mobil 1 on pistols.  I carry a small squirt bottle of Mobil 1 in my gear bag along with my small spray can of Tri-Flo. 

 

Here is a vid of what I carry in my range bag:

 

 

Doug

[G O B 3,516]

In a pinch I have used the oil off a dip stick to lube a sticky slide. The idiot with the dry, dirty slide yelld HEYHEY HEY! Until the slide freed up and his pistol worked again! 

If it should move and doesn't oil it!

If it moves and it shoulden't then duct tape and bailing wire!

[mancat 2,366]

I use diesel oil on everything firearms. The only reason I would suggest diesel oil over a conventional motor oil, is that most diesel oil still has a high zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) content, while most motor oils have completely dropped ZDDP from their formulations. ZDDP is a strong anti-shear compound and as such IMO serves a good purpose in firearms, where most lubrication needs to occur not in bearing-supported rolling surfaces, but on sliding surfaces like bolt rails, slide rails, etc.

 

ZDDP is important enough that I have to run this oil in my Jeep to keep the solid tappet cam from getting wiped out.

 

For a buck or two more per quart, it's worth it. I usually use Delo or Rotella 15w-40 - whichever I found the best deal on last. The heavier weight doesn't run as much over time - even if it does there is still a healthy surface film left over.

 

As far as cleaning goes I rarely do fully detailed cleaning on any of my guns any more. Maybe once a year for most of them. The rest of the time I just run a bore snake, wipe down the internals with a rag, oil back up and reassemble.

 

Also your Tokarev will probably NEVER wear out those core internal parts such as extractor, ejector, etc. I don't shoot mine often any more, but back when I shot it a lot, it ran dry most of the time. No failures, nothing ever wore out.

Edited December 17, 2015 by mancat

[yakdung 2,926]

Could always homebrew if that's your thing:

 

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

[montec 164]

I use diesel oil on everything firearms. The only reason I would suggest diesel oil over a conventional motor oil, is that most diesel oil still has a high zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) content, while most motor oils have completely dropped ZDDP from their formulations. ZDDP is a strong anti-shear compound and as such IMO serves a good purpose in firearms, where most lubrication needs to occur not in bearing-supported rolling surfaces, but on sliding surfaces like bolt rails, slide rails, etc.

 

ZDDP is important enough that I have to run this oil in my Jeep to keep the solid tappet cam from getting wiped out.

 

For a buck or two more per quart, it's worth it. I usually use Delo or Rotella 15w-40 - whichever I found the best deal on last. The heavier weight doesn't run as much over time - even if it does there is still a healthy surface film left over.

 

As far as cleaning goes I rarely do fully detailed cleaning on any of my guns any more. Maybe once a year for most of them. The rest of the time I just run a bore snake, wipe down the internals with a rag, oil back up and reassemble.

 

Also your Tokarev will probably NEVER wear out those core internal parts such as extractor, ejector, etc. I don't shoot mine often any more, but back when I shot it a lot, it ran dry most of the time. No failures, nothing ever wore out.

 

Actually Rotella no longer has ZDDP, hasn't for years.  No conventional has enough to be any benefit for the flat tappet cams.  Need to upgrade to Royal Purple or even Amsoil.(disclamer I am an independent Dealer, and am not advising on oil{been a dealer now for 4years})  Also I ran Mobil 1 for years, even got that dreaded lifter tick in the 3.1, switched to Royal Purple and what do you know tick got much quieter.  Now lost my huge discount on that and moved on to Amsoil.  However I will state that I knew long before the last part that Mobil 1 is crap but was the cheapest on the market for a reason, Oh and the stuff in the race cars is definitely different then the stuff you buy off the shelf at walmart.

 

Now I've just used RemOil on my guns for years and have lately decided to get a bore scrubber, and looking to try out the AmsOil Metal Protector for lube to see how it works.

[G O B 3,516]

Most lubricants work, some better than others, same as cleaners. I prefer "good enough" and use the $$$$$ saved on ammo.

[mancat 2,366]

 

 

I use diesel oil on everything firearms. The only reason I would suggest diesel oil over a conventional motor oil, is that most diesel oil still has a high zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) content, while most motor oils have completely dropped ZDDP from their formulations. ZDDP is a strong anti-shear compound and as such IMO serves a good purpose in firearms, where most lubrication needs to occur not in bearing-supported rolling surfaces, but on sliding surfaces like bolt rails, slide rails, etc.

 

ZDDP is important enough that I have to run this oil in my Jeep to keep the solid tappet cam from getting wiped out.

 

For a buck or two more per quart, it's worth it. I usually use Delo or Rotella 15w-40 - whichever I found the best deal on last. The heavier weight doesn't run as much over time - even if it does there is still a healthy surface film left over.

 

As far as cleaning goes I rarely do fully detailed cleaning on any of my guns any more. Maybe once a year for most of them. The rest of the time I just run a bore snake, wipe down the internals with a rag, oil back up and reassemble.

 

Also your Tokarev will probably NEVER wear out those core internal parts such as extractor, ejector, etc. I don't shoot mine often any more, but back when I shot it a lot, it ran dry most of the time. No failures, nothing ever wore out.

Actually Rotella no longer has ZDDP, hasn't for years. No conventional has enough to be any benefit for the flat tappet cams. Need to upgrade to Royal Purple or even Amsoil.(disclamer I am an independent Dealer, and am not advising on oil{been a dealer now for 4years}) Also I ran Mobil 1 for years, even got that dreaded lifter tick in the 3.1, switched to Royal Purple and what do you know tick got much quieter. Now lost my huge discount on that and moved on to Amsoil. However I will state that I knew long before the last part that Mobil 1 is crap but was the cheapest on the market for a reason, Oh and the stuff in the race cars is definitely different then the stuff you buy off the shelf at walmart.

 

Now I've just used RemOil on my guns for years and have lately decided to get a bore scrubber, and looking to try out the AmsOil Metal Protector for lube to see how it works.

The current Rotella MSDS lists ZDDP additive with a 1.66% formulation content.

[montec 164]

 

 

I use diesel oil on everything firearms. The only reason I would suggest diesel oil over a conventional motor oil, is that most diesel oil still has a high zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) content, while most motor oils have completely dropped ZDDP from their formulations. ZDDP is a strong anti-shear compound and as such IMO serves a good purpose in firearms, where most lubrication needs to occur not in bearing-supported rolling surfaces, but on sliding surfaces like bolt rails, slide rails, etc.

 

ZDDP is important enough that I have to run this oil in my Jeep to keep the solid tappet cam from getting wiped out.

 

For a buck or two more per quart, it's worth it. I usually use Delo or Rotella 15w-40 - whichever I found the best deal on last. The heavier weight doesn't run as much over time - even if it does there is still a healthy surface film left over.

 

As far as cleaning goes I rarely do fully detailed cleaning on any of my guns any more. Maybe once a year for most of them. The rest of the time I just run a bore snake, wipe down the internals with a rag, oil back up and reassemble.

 

Also your Tokarev will probably NEVER wear out those core internal parts such as extractor, ejector, etc. I don't shoot mine often any more, but back when I shot it a lot, it ran dry most of the time. No failures, nothing ever wore out.

Actually Rotella no longer has ZDDP, hasn't for years. No conventional has enough to be any benefit for the flat tappet cams. Need to upgrade to Royal Purple or even Amsoil.(disclamer I am an independent Dealer, and am not advising on oil{been a dealer now for 4years}) Also I ran Mobil 1 for years, even got that dreaded lifter tick in the 3.1, switched to Royal Purple and what do you know tick got much quieter. Now lost my huge discount on that and moved on to Amsoil. However I will state that I knew long before the last part that Mobil 1 is crap but was the cheapest on the market for a reason, Oh and the stuff in the race cars is definitely different then the stuff you buy off the shelf at walmart.

 

Now I've just used RemOil on my guns for years and have lately decided to get a bore scrubber, and looking to try out the AmsOil Metal Protector for lube to see how it works.

The current Rotella MSDS lists ZDDP additive with a 1.66% formulation content.

 

 

Last I looked was back around 2009 and they were removing/reducing.  The % means little, its the PPM that counts.  I used conventional Rotella T and I know the 15-40 was no longer having enough ZDDP for flat tappet cams.  Any content lower then 1200ppm causes issues fast.  And as most Diesels now have CATs they will be reducing them even more.

[G O B 3,516]

My flat tappet 454 '99 Suburban and my flat tappet 4.0 '88 Comanche each have well over 200,000 miles and neither burns oil. Each of the tappets on an engine are 'wiped' by the cam at the rate of 1/2 RPM. 3,000 RPM means 1,500 wipes per minute! No need for anything 'exotic' to lube a gun! NOTHING in any gun that any of us mere mortals CAN own comes anywhere close to that kind of abuse! motor oil is plenty. Synthetic oil is just better because the molecules are more consistent in shape and therefore more efficient lubricants.

[Sim_Player 1,939]

Moly-B was big in aerospace, decades ago, when I was there.

 

We used to use spray cans on aluminum pistons. The idea was that it would protect the metal and help to lube the chamber.

[Hawk451 2,230]

They were still using it for TR guide rails when I retired last year. Good stuff.

 

[storm6490 2,768]

Yes, you silly British fucker. You need a cleaning kit for your weapons. The only thing dedicated is the bore brush and or Jag that is specific to the caliber of your weapon.

[G O B 3,516]

S-12's also need anti-seeze on the blind plug threads. I prefer the molly (black) anti-seeze, but the silver or copper graphite work just as well in this application. If you have a threaded muzzle, put a bit on those threads too. When you go to remove either of these you will appreciate the anti-seeze!