tjschul

I love the 500 also, but not until I've hit it with some OOO steel wool to take the gloss off. Looks very nice after that!

So what's the story with a manufacturer marketing a firearm with no spare/replacement parts available? Kind of an expensive Bic lighter ain't it? Some of the stuff (firing pin) could easily be made, but something like that fragile looking bolt carrier might be a problem down the road.

For the home smith without a lathe (and the barrel still attached), I would recommend using a tubing cutter to scribe the line to follow with the saw, and a machinist square to guide your file work. Resist the tempation to just roll the thing off with the tubing cutter, it will leave quite a ridge on the ID. Cut a little longer with the saw and finish to the scribe line with a file. Finish up with a home made lap and some compound. (Those brass cleaning rod guides work well a laps). That's good to hear. I am having the 'smith cut my 3 holer 22" down and thread it for internal c

What is it? I've been warned not to use buffers in loads not specifically calling for it. Not way to read pressure on a shotshell hull, I guess.

Ain't gonna let that go... Well a 30% drop in the Dow since the press selected him, and a $2 trillion proposed deficit is sure running things into the ground if you ask me! That's right, this guy will only surrender wars won't he? +1 on century arms, quick and trustworthy shop! Hey newbies, buy it and shooot the crap out of it. then look at changes and mods, atleast you'll know it worked before you converted it. now for political crap. I hate hijacking threads but...... This wonderful country of ours isn't 2 trillion in debt my friend, its at least double digits.

Ain't gonna let that go... Well a 30% drop in the Dow since the press selected him, and a $2 trillion proposed deficit is sure running things into the ground if you ask me! That's right, this guy will only surrender wars won't he? +1 on century arms, quick and trustworthy shop!

sorry, double post. looks like my punishment was removal of the original

Which part # is it?

138

If you grind it flush, the stub left will easily push into the gas tube leaving a (threadless) hole. Needs a little tack weld and then flush off again.

Made some firing pins?? Aren't common parts available for these guns? A gun you can't repair is like a bic lighter when it empty..an expensive one. Tell me it ain't so. Try and give Gunfixr a pm. He made some replacement firing pins a few months ago. Cool, thanks for the info!

Yeah this is unfortunately true, if you cut your barrel off you will have committed a felony. Be careful out there. Thanks for the warnings guys, I'm pretty anal about this B.S. so... after I remove the barrel, shorten it in my lathe, silver braze on the muzzle brake and then reattach the now 18"+ barrel to the receiver.....how will the new (effectively shorter) barrel affect cycling? I have four ports but am worried that because the brake (King Armory KA 1212BR) will relieve pressure earlier it may cause less than adequate gas pressure. Is just enlarging the holes while the barr

If you grind off the front sight, the base of it may just fall into the gas tube, mine did, leaving a hole completely through (into the gas tube). I guess you would want to drill and tap that for your new sight

I'm interested in removing 2" from my 19" barrel and permanently attaching my muzzle brake with silver solder (giving me a 19" overall barrel length including the brake). My question is this...what effect will this have on the gas system? Will it still cycle cheap walmart rounds like it does now? Is there a mod you can make to recover reliability if it quits cycling low brass? Thanks for any help, this sure has been an enjoyable project with the knowledge base here.

Still not sure why this seems fairly common on the Saiga. Never seen this problem before and own a few AK's (various polish, bulgarian, hungarian), none of my AK friends have either. Must be the bolt hold open device on these guns.

Mine was swaged in place...no threads. Tried to remove it by unscrewing, it just rotated. ground it off and punched it into the gas tube to get rid of it. Welded on a MP-4 front.

Yup, Tweeking the spring worked fine. Bent the spring (being careful not to "unwind" it) so that it now pushes out toward the BHO device, and also so that the second 90* bend from the end is lower than the trigger bar. Fired about 50 rounds today without a problem.

Mine wasn't threaded it was just swadged in the hole. I was grinding the thing off to install a MP5 front and it just fell into the gasblock when I had it flush with the ramp.

BINGO! You guys are good. The R/H spring leg (end) was indeed sitting behind the disconnector and was keeping the disconector from moving freely. It wasn't that way when I put it in during conversion work. I noticed that it easily slipped back out of place with just a little nudge. I ended up having to bend the spring leg outboard to keep it from dislodging. Is this a "Saiga thing"? Never had a hammer spring leg "jump" out of place on any of my AK's. Looks like the bolt hold open device might tend to move the spring leg in that direction. Thanks

I could use some help from the experienced Saiga smiths please. I took my newly converted Saiga 12 to the range today for its first workout. The gun turned out to be a single shot. It would fire and load a second round, but when the trigger is pulled again...nothing, like it didn't cock. The action seems to function normally when I manually cycle it. The carrier cocks the hammer back, the disconnecter holds the hammer back until I release the trigger, when the sear then holds it. I can do this forever with out fail, but fire one round and it won't cock (I'm guessing) for the second sh

I wonder where I can find spares for my Saiga 12. Many of the parts appear to be standard AK parts, and I've got plenty of those laying around. Parts like the extractor, extractor spring and firing pin are parts I'd like to keep in reserve but can't seem to find a supplier. Where are you guys getting your spares?

Lots of good info here, that's for sure. Not sure how you would lose the ability to adjust the rear, but I can see running out of adjustment is its not properly aligned. I was planning to use a laser bore sighting tool to avoid that. Not having access to a TIG (or the skill to use it), looks like I'm going to plug or slot weld it on using my MIG.

And warpage might be the big drawback to silverbrazing it on. I'm sure that with #8 silver and a good fit, I'd get a solid joint, but it takes a bit of heat over a wider area. By the way, the sight I got came with a good amount of rust all over it, and one "leg" a good 1/8" shorter than the other, not real good quality control somewhere along the line, so I've got a bit of work to do before I attach it.

I'm getting to the point in this convertion where I'm going to have to figure out how to attach the HK front sight to the saiga gas block. My original though was to silver braze it after getting the fit "tight" enough. Then I noticed that this unit is sold as a "weld on" front sight. I really don't want any weld showing around the base of the sight, and am considereding drilling four holes in the sight base and plug welding it to the gas block with my mig. What is the preferred technique? thanks