admbleg

Did a little custom work to the ole' 308. For the Gas Tube. I took out the spot welds and move to the front of the Tube and re spot welded. Top wood was cut back on the original PSL and reshaped. Lower was cut and reshaped, also had to remove wood to fit over barrel... I used a sanding barrel from HF fit well on the drill press. Dinzag Arms retainer. The Bipod mount is nothing more than a Magpul rail, screwed into the wood... I put everything together to get some pics... I need to take it back off level it better. Gas block fs combo.... I welded that

Polish the bottom of the bolt where it make's contact with the hammer, and polish the hammer. One thing I do is also shape the back of the bolt carrier where the spring goes in... if you notice it is starting to wear.... if you get a dremel sander wheel take the edge off you'll see that everything slides better.

Cool no worries... My buddy contacted Ultimak and they said it's supposed to have the gap. Once I put his new Gas block front sight combo on I'll take some pics...

ahhh... I was asking about the Ultimak rail... but thanks for suggesting the Bulgarian tube.

Thanks.. I had just posted a new topic....asking the question... Wasn't sure if you were still around or not. If that is true about the expansion, why do I see other Saiga's with no gaps in their pictures? Thanks again

Yes... I did a search and no I didn't find the info I needed. I am helping my buddy out with his 7.62 Saiga. He bought a M1B it is to short. When locked into the Rear Sight block it is approx. 1/4 short on the gas block. Before you say it will work... I know it will, it just looks like crap not to mention, I don't want him to take any shrapnel or excess gas from the gap. Should he have gotten the ULTIMAK M3-B for Veprs ? Or?? Thanks

Where for $60??? Post the link or PM me for the info. I have done a few I have done the Tactical Machining 80% and the Quentin Defense. Used the TM JIG for both.. have done the upright mil and the CNC version. Of course if your not in a Leftist State take Tony's advise buy a regular Lower and register it as a pistol. If your not in a state that allows that, then a 80% is the way to go. G/L

I know this is an old post... Which Ultimak did you buy? my buddy just got a M1-B and there is a gap between the gas block and tube... I know it should still work, but it just looks wrong. Thanks for the help. Yes This one is not mine but the ones I have modified were similar. The hole threads are aluminum which means do not over tighten or you might end up with a stripped hole. Also, make sure the optics choice you plan on using is very heat tolerant because that aluminum rail will efficiently transfer plenty of heat. Usually, more things clamped to the barrel is bad for harmonics-ac

Dumb question here.... Did you clean the gas block after firing the previous rounds? Did you inspect the gas ports and clean them out? As evl said it needs to be broken in, or polish the hammer, bolt and debur the bolt where the spring guides into the back of the bolt

Wow this thread got way off track from the MMA fighter and punk in Chi town.

Glad you figured things out... One thing I noticed when you were firing from the bench was the pressure you were putting on the magazine causing it to angle. This can cause jams, it happens in AR's as well. Food for thought.

rustolem black textured is a match

Saigas have a 90. Krebs on my Saiga 223 At least in all the ones I have taken off.... 4

I just came along your post... I will measure mine. it is .574 I know Krebs is getting ready to start making theirs again.. I just sent an email to them to put me on their list.

Hey King.. Prior to getting to your post I was thinking the same thing....lol Ths Sig 556 has a ruber slot for the charging handle to go back and forth.