sapper1371usmc

Ill give you $350 for that piece of crap, vodka special.

150gr ammo is all you need to take deer at probably any range with your S308. Ive used it in the past with excellent results.

Does anyone else's front trunion lug look like mine?

Most any countries safety levers will work. Ive bought one from Greg at CSS, probably romanian or bulgarian. Works perfect. No welding necessary to fix safety issue. The only difference is the detent is at a different location. Not a problem but it will create a second safety scratch on the receiver.

Nice. What are you going to do about a front sight?

Sounds like you need to open your gas ports. 3 ports at .093". 4 ports at .078". Problem fixed. Also, put back in the factory puc and recoil spring back in.

Could be one of the hammer legs jumping over which will usually cause the trigger to fail to reset. Usually happens during firing though. Could also be just rough casting of the trigger group getting hung up as well. You could try polishing the under side of the disconnector and also the hammer surface where the disconnector engages.

Thanks. Just being paranoid i guess. Just seemed odd to have that area relieved on purpose.

Thanks deadeye. Are you able to snap a pic? Anyone else confirm/deny your front trunnion looks like mine? Pi

Several views but no replies. Are you guys able to see what im talking about in the picture? Its the part of the trunnion the bottom lug onthe bolt locks into.

Just picked up my new 22" S308. Gun was purchased through kvar and is a 2009 model. When i got home, i was looking it over and noticed a chip missing on the left side of the front trunnion. Has anyone else seen this? Do any of your guns have this? Thanks Jon

Why not just add some cooling slots in the factory handguard and call it good.

Kvar. Add a small 4" Moe rail on the bottom. And get the rs regulate side mount made for the trijicon. Sorry, no experience with the titan,but it obviously will be heavier than the kvar with a lot of unnecessary rail estate for a shotgun. I like to keep mine simple.

Some marine expoxy should do the trick just fine.

Adco if your willing to remove your barrel and all its components.

You must not have read post #3 too well!But thanks for the link. I hadn't realized you could purchase direct from them. After I order a Titan a ProMag 15 will be next. If it runs well that'll probably be my go-to. I didnt read it at all. But your welcome.

I would go with the CSspecs magazines. They only come in 20rnd versions, but are built like a tank. The 2nd gen mags are leaps and bounds better than the first, however I never had trouble with those either. Its just the 2nd gen mags look more refined as if they were standard issue.

You must not have looked to hard. http://www.mdarms.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=13jn6p4tt7ng8a57kvbtqo3st2 Mdarms are much better than Promag. If you have the choice get the MD20. I dont necessarily hate the promag drums, as I have 2 of their 12rnd drums. They work but you can see the quality between those and the drums produced by MD Arms.

Go to R&R Targets website. I believe I saw they were $275. They are a vendor here.

Are your ports angled? They appear to be drilled straight down.

Check the E-store here on the forum?

No 5th port. More ports let more fouling thru. Ideally you want 3 ports. 4 factory ports are "ok" but the problem with drilling them bigger is that the diamond shaped piece that is left in the middle can break off. So if you have 4, the absolute right way to increase them is, to not drill them, but mill them so that you are taking material off of the outside of the holes away from this center area.Negative. Its not having more ports that's letting in more debris, its the size of the ports. So 5 ports at .078" is going to run cleaner than 4 ports at .093", and definitely cleaner than 3 ports

Probably not necessary, but I would. It would help keep the rod centered better. definitely wrap the all-threads that goes in the barrel to keep it from scratching up the interior surface.

When profiling, you also need to ensure that the hammer strikes the bolt tail/striker parallel