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About Trespasser

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  1. Thanks for the replies. It looks like I'll have to get aftermarket irons or add an optic to zero in slugs.
  2. I am looking more for a method to zero the iron sights rather than adjust for elevation without tools.
  3. I've tried searching, but I cannot find if there is a good way to adjust the elevation with the stock Saiga 12 (IZ-109) iron sights. Can the front post be pressed up or down?
  4. I haven't found any guides to the process, but an older thread from sKott details his build pretty well and has helped me. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/21197-skotts-saiga-12-c-conversion/ Depends on which side folder you get. The correct one (5.5 mm pin) I believe is cut at a 4.5 degree angle. My advice to anyone doing a conversion with a new trunnion is to use the ideal dimensions second to the actual dimensions of your trunnion. Not that I've seen. There are not too many choices other than what Izhmash or Arsenal has to offer. It would be interesting to see
  5. On my S12, I have an el cheapo side rail with some minor modifications to make it hold up to the abuse. I milled off the extra rail material to save weight, replaced the roll pin with a hardened steel dowel pin, and tightened the screw to the point where it barely slides over the rail with the lever fully released. After the modifications, it holds up well. The original roll pin did not have much engagement to the side rail. Not only did the roll pin get beat up, the rear corner of the side rail was starting to deform as well. The new dowel pin took care of that. I pressed the dowel pin so
  6. I don't think you will find your answer as R1 is supposed to be an input. What I don't understand is the difference between R and R1. They both appear to be used as a distance variable. Also, there must be some approximation going on. The only equation which R1 shows up is in the bullet path. It takes a elevation in minutes of angle times a distance in yards and divides by 100 for a distance in inches? At first I thought R1 might equal R, but in different units.
  7. Saigastock.com has the Izzy 2 round mags in stock. Not cheap though.
  8. I think the best way to simulate a high brass load is to open up the gas ports. You will use more gas pushing on the piston and adding to recoil instead of pushing the lead out of the barrel. It would actually increase the volume of gas needed to build pressure, but take less pressure to move the larger piston (given the change in mass and friction are negligible) for an equal amount of force. Think of it as a truck with small tires versus big tires. The small tires fill faster, but the bigger tires can lose more pressure before they are flat.
  9. I do not recommend using grease. Grease is thicker than oil by design and will actually provide more resistance--especially in colder temperatures. I would also be worried about grease trapping powder residue and thickening even more. After a while, you may end up with a gun packed full of sludge if not cleaned often. Plus, our trusty service manuals tells us to wipe the components with a rifle oil soaked and wrung out rag. In other words: add a light coating of Rem oil.
  10. I ended up using one like this: As you can see, the forward vertical strut on the mount is angled farther back than most. I trimmed the portion of the rail which hangs over the front for better clearance. Now there are no portions of the rail which hang over the ejection port. There is also a screw which had to be adjusted to achieve a tight fit to the side rail. Properly adjusted, the rail can take a pounding. One negative with the rail is that it is slightly off center. I don't think this will be too much of an issue with a shotgun.
  11. OK. That makes sense. Some handguards must have the quarter circle groove molded into them. Thanks AZG.
  12. Let me add some pictures for clarification. As you can see, I already have the rectangular hole for the latch as well as the pin hole in place. The only cutting / drilling left is in the handguard. The retaining clip goes in through the front side of the receiver and has a small tab which will interfere with the handguard. Am curious why the diagram shows the handguard having a quarter circle cut out versus a simple square notch where the clip is located. One of the pictures has the spring hole and cut out marked in pencil on the handguard.
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