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'Superhawk138' Thanks for the link. It answered all my questions. louielouie

In the case of a FSB on a 7.62 x 39. 1.) If I cut as close to the barrel with a dremmel as I feel comfortable before starting. I have seen a lot of topics about removing the FSB but I can't remember anyone (who used a press) giving the details. What do you place AGAINST the barrel to press down on? I think I remember someone saying a penny worked. I tried it but it covers up the barrel and the shroud. Can I get away with using a one ton arbor press? I have the 2 pins already out and I have been using Break-Free to penetrate. 1.) I thought I could put it in the arbor

Now "bigdaddy" don't be putting "doerdie" down, just for liking women with a little meat on their bones. louielouie

I happen to know that Dinzag just got back from a hunting trip last weekend and he told me that he had 176 emails for JUST YESTERDAY. If you want to get your order in, go to his website at : http://www.dinzagarms.com/ and place your order there. The wait is worth it. louielouie

I have one Bulgarian "AK 103" or AK74 bayonet left. Price is right, so if you are interested PM me. louielouie

I have one Bulgarian "AK 103" or AK74 bayonet left. Price is right, so if you are interested PM me. louielouie

Bob, I just caught what you said on the X and Y before someone else did. I admire your work and what you have done for this forum. I am certainly not trying to give you a hard time. Really I do appreciate your expertise, I just love the "Emticons". louielouie

I warned you Nalioth, I warned you fair and square, "Call me old fashioned (just DON'T CALL ME OLD) " HERE YOU GO, FANNING THE FLAMES AND TRYING TO THROW ABSORBINE JUNIOR ON THE FIRE'. WELL I FOR ONE HAVE HAD IT. EVERYONE 55 AND OLDER UNITE TO ..... I forgot was I was going to say. Nalioth, Merry Christmas, louielouie

Bob, This is the one. I am lucky that mine does not have a pin or it would be illegal. Apparentyly Saiga doesn't mind substituting military receivers if the Saiga "Sporting" assembly line runs short of receivers. The really unique thing about this one is that it not only has the Y and dimple but also does not have the cross hatched box that they usually do to cover up some military marking. That means I can take it as close to an original AK103 as anyone can get. I am converting it toward toward the AK103 ( at least as far as my budget allows). louielouie

Bob, Believe me, I am not trying to embarrass you (that would be like the student calling the teacher wrong) but I thought the X,Y stampings usually refers to the markings like these; louielouie

Call me old fashioned (just DON'T CALL ME OLD) but I believe in snap caps. If you are not familiar with snap caps they can be made (as g1rock posted above) or purchased. The purchased type usually have a spring backed plastic primer for the firing pin to hit. Purchased or made snap caps are also good for testing magazine feeding, bullet guides, etc. when you really shouldn't be using live rounds but you need a dummy round (bullet and case). I am sure that Nalioth is probably right but you can see my point about how they come in handy for other things too. louielouie

Kymasabe' Basic conversion, go to . Shiek's Conversion tutorial http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/ good luck and welcome aboard, louielouie p.s. Get yourself a good "carbide" 3/16 inch drill bit to get through the weld on the trigger plate. You will wear out 3 of your best drill bits if you use regular drill bits. louielouie

RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo kit I think I paid about $40 for the one I used to have. Does a nice job and not so bad on your hands. It is actually a die set up and I put mine in an old Lee one station press to do mine. louielouie

Nalioth pointed out that, These; "Bulgy bayonets will fit any stamped reciever Kalashnikov. Slant brake/muzzle brake/flash hider, it doesn't matter, so long as they're all soviet miltary pattern (iow, they won't work with the phantom flash hider, strangly patterned US made copies of muzzle devices, etc). They won't fit milled AK-47 clones." Thank you Nalioth, many newbies (or even old farts) forget about there muzzle attachments and whether they will work with a bayonet. It' s better to find out now, rather than later. louielouie

SEE NEW POSTING !! louielouie

Nalioth pointed out that these are not Russian made and he is right. I checked in " An Illustrated History Bayonets" by Martin Brayley. Page 192 shows the minor differences and states that the 10 in a circle is Bulgarian. I should have remembered from all the Bulgie Mil-Surp Makarovs I shot. They had the same marking. There was no intention to mislead anyone. See NEW listing. louielouie

Well, I was close. louielouie

Pardon the ignorance....Whats a Galyan's sticker? I'm assuming Dick's sporting goods used to be called Galyan's. It was a pricing sticker, instead of a Dick's logo, it had a Galyan's logo. I'd never heard of them before. I'm assuming the ammo is pretty old. I am not trying to give you a hard time, but Galyan's went out of business maybe 15-20 years ago, but lets say 35 years ago just to be safe. The ammo would still be fresh. How many times is the 7.62x39 surplus ammo dated in the 70-80's. Plus the advances in powder etc. I would give (even Wolf) ammo a shelf live of 75

Make that 3. I reloaded for years (note past tense) and living in Indiana, it can be humid year round. As long as you don't have water dripping on the reloading area you should be fine. One thing I want to point out. In the summer I kept all my components wherever I reloaded and in the winter too. That way you have almost 0 % chance of the brass cases sweating because of changes in temperature. If you took your brass cases out of the 72 degree ambient air temp. in your house to a 35 degree garage then chances are the metal will sweat and vice versa. I think storage is the mai

I've got the two rivets from the rear and the front off. Thanks. But now there are two spot welds in the middle, I know on the tutorial online and the youtube videos there is a third rivet there, but for me there is only two spot welds. It would probably be helpful to point out I'm working on a S308. Anything else you can add would be great. Thanks -Broke BrokeNOJoke, I went right through that weld IN 35 SECONDS with a "3/16 inch solid carbide end mill- that I got from Dinzag (part # EM1875)" For $10. You could use it on a rivet too if you centerpuch the rivet and were care

You don't have to take much off, what matters is where you take it off. I put my Saiga gas tube by my AK74 gas tube and noticed the subtle difference on one or two angles on the face that slides past the lever. I took off a little at a time until it would go completely in. If you get it right you should be able to push down and then just barely forward and you will hear a click noise. I think it is the spring locking into place. louielouie its wierd a lot of guys talk about issues with pushing the clip back down.. mine physically went into the rifle smooth as could be.. i

Here is a real believe it or not. I called the only gunsmith within 50 miles and he laughed and said. How am I supposed to get that receiver and barrel into my lathe? TRUE STORY! louielouie

You don't have to take much off, what matters is where you take it off. I put my Saiga gas tube by my AK74 gas tube and noticed the subtle difference on one or two angles on the face that slides past the lever. I took off a little at a time until it would go completely in. If you get it right you should be able to push down and then just barely forward and you will hear a click noise. I think it is the spring locking into place. louielouie