Montana3gunner

Thank you and glad the review helped. I have a Tromix break, debating whether to install it. Also considering porting or a comp. I am guessing that weight, especially on the front of the gun, will help the most with the recoil.

Totally agree with you. I have a Tromix break, but am worried that within a match or two I will jab that thing into my leg and earn myself a trip to the ER. If I decide to mount that break, I plan grinding the point ends off. Did your mods affect the performance of your brake?

Took my new MKA-1919 out to the range today for it's inaugural run. The weather at the range with 25F and sunny, or what we call in Montana a "beautiful February day". My primary goal for purchasing the MKA was to build an Open shotgun for 3 gun competitions, so keep that in mind while reading my comments below. Also keep in mind that felt recoil is subjective, and thus so are the comments relative to the same. I've read the advice from other MKA-1919 owners that when breaking in a new MKA-1919 you should 1) disassemble, thoroughly clean, and re-lubricate, and 2) shoot a couple of bo

On big 3 gun stages full of shot targets, it's hard to compete against a drum (if it runs). Reliability and loading speed are the two biggest factors with the shotgun in 3 gun. Slug accuracy is quickly becoming a factor as well, but that is easier to overcome than the other two. The MKA's load speed potential is fantastic, and so far there are reports of excellent reliability. I would love to have a drum and about 4 - 10 to 12 round stick mags for matches like the MGM Iron Man and the Montana Mult-gun. I'll keep some 5 round mags too, for slugs and specialty rounds. Shooting

Anyone? Bueller?

You have to call them, and there is a waiting list. Nanci is very helpful, give her a call. I ordered mine approx. A month ago, not sure where I am on the list. If I remember right, they were around $250.

Agree with Bob Ash, the sights and carry handle and sling swivels went in the trash upon opening the box. I'm perfectly fine with the pg and stock for now. Ordered a FB hand guard. And will replace the trigger group. Also have a Tromix gas bushing. All to meet 922. May experiment with rem 1100 parts too. Would love to see an alum. Lower from Tromix.

In the matches I shoot - all mag fed shotguns are in open class (ie the MGM Iron Man). So, you might as well port it and throw a red dot on it too! Frankly, I'm getting kind of tired of loading shotguns in matches and a mag fed shotgun might be a nice change...even if means moving to open class. How much does reaming the forcing cone cost?

Bob, objective or not, I really appreciate you taking the time to respond..and for the info. That is great customer service. Would also love to hear from others too...let's get the feedback on this thread so others interested in this break will have something to look at when they are deciding. Thanks again Bob.

Two questions- 1) wouldn't the lower, stock, and pistol grip be considered one part? They cannot be separated without cutting them.. If they are considered one part, then what is the value of cutting the stock and pistol grip off and replacing them in order to meet 922? I totally understand replacing them for preference sake, but couldn't you make the argument that the lower, grip and stock are all one "imported" part? 2) does anyone have experience using rem 1100 internals in the MKA? I seen mention that guys might be trying to use the 1100 bolt in the MKA, wondering how that worke

Just purchased an MKA with the hope of turning it into an Open shotgun for 3 gun. Anyone used the Tromix break for the MKA yet? I have used Tromix parts in the past with great success, but wondering how effective this break is at reducing recoil. I've had some others tell me that shotgun breaks on the end of the barrell aren't effective, although breaks further down the barrel are. Thanks for the input.

Sold pending funds - to Bounce. Thanks Bounce, and thanks to everyone for looking. Montana3Gunner

I love this gun, but have to unload some of my arsenal. Asking $950, + actual shipping, (will sell/ship to FFL only and in CONUS only) you get everything in the picture except the camo fabric. I've shot about 300 rounds through this gun and had no problems. Cash, certified check, or discrete paypal if you split the fees with me. Email me at chrisg@bkbh.com This gun has the following: Duracoat finish - flat black Red Star Arms fully adjustable trigger group Tapco SAW pistol grip Professionally cut, crowned, and threaded barrel (barrel approx. 18" from end of receiver to beginnin

I did think of one more thing... for whatever reason (and there are plenty of theories as to why), last year bear attacks in MT were WAY up although I don't remember the exact number we had. Most survived, with varying degrees of injury.

Nine pounds is nothing to pack around if you're bear hunting, but if you're backpacking with no intention of hunting, it's a huge amount of weight that could be better used for other things. Sorry I'm getting to this post late. Like a couple on this thread I live in Montana (have most of my life) and spend as much time in the mountains as possible. First, where are you hiking and when? Location and time of the year have a big impact on bear safety. Although Grizzlies have expanded their range recently (shit they sometimes range as far South as the divide West of Helena, and thu

http://catalog.bulldogarms.com/

Juggernaut - Sounds great! I do at least a couple Duracoat projects a month, decent templates at a reasonable cost would be great. I usually order from Bulldog Arms. I've posted some of my projects here, and many on AR15.com's refinishing site. That might be a good place for you to try to sell your templates. I don't think anyone has done a really good Multi-cam template yet. There are a lot of so-so multi-cam templates out there. I end up making most of my own...which is a pain. In order to do it right, you need to order some muti-cam material to copy. I ordered some and use it fo

I'm going to divert here a little from the general opinions.. First, I think you want to decide if you're going to shoot open sights or optics. Not that you couldn't have a gun that could do both, but I would suggest slightly different guns for the different classes. I don't think a guy needs a $1700 gun to compete. And I don't think 1/2 moa guns are needed for 3 gunning (if that's what we're talking about here..if not, I appologize). In my first 3gun match ever, I won the Limited (open sights) C class at the MGM Iron Man with a Mini-14, shooting Wolf ammo. If that tells you anythi

Thats a great post! that should be sticky'ed. Lots of good tips here. Here's what i would add: don't be afraid to start small. Hell, I started with a Glock, an old 870 wingmaster and a mini-14. Yes, a mini. and I went to the MGM Iron Man (one of the bigger 3 gun matches) for my first match and somehow managed to win the C class in open sights. Open signts division is another way to save money, and I think it is a blast. I use a Blackhawk Serpa holster, which has "active" retention. That means you have to push a button on the side in order to draw your pistol. Why? The

I'm wondering if anyone has "accurzied" their Saiga, ie put a new, accurate barrel on it. I know, I know, there will be several people who say "but that's not what a Saiga is", or "it's accurate enough for a battle rifle". But I ask, why not? People are buying DPMS .308s at 2-3 times the price and getting 1 moa (or better in some cases), and still more people are clamoring for the Rock River .308 which they have promised will be 1 moa. With a Saiga, I'm wondering if you could spend a few hundred bucks on a new barrel and get a sub moa gun? Maybe not with the stamped reciever and

Thanks for the nice comments guys. The ACU blends fairly well. The pattern is pretty good, although I've switched to a little busier digital to match the fatigues better. I'm a little disappointed with the stock ACU color packs from Duracoat. I think the lightest color, the tan, is too green. I'm custom mixing my ACU tan now. The other two colors match really well. Course, if you want MARPAT or Marine Desert Digital, then you'd have to use different colors and/or custom colors. A lot of the refinishers around the country post on the AR15 refinishing site, so you can compare eve

Sorry guys, didn't see this thread. Kind of been outta the loop for a while. I got really interested in gun finishing a year or two ago. I started by reading EVERYTHING on the refinishing thread on AR15.com AR15.com refinishing website I learned a ton from everyone on that site. It has most of the answers to the questions you are wondering. After a lot of research, and trying out a few products, I settled on Duracoat. It is a great product. Most refinishers use bulldog templates. I've now done quite a few projects, from a lot of different people, all via word of mouth. Whe

I've done quite a bit of gun refinishing over the last year or two, and most of what I've learned - I learned on that AR15.com site. You can see a couple of the guns I've done on this site, but most of them on AR15.com (just search for my posts). I think the AR15.com site is split between Duracoat and Moly. I've used both, both have their pros and cons, but I almost always prefer DC. More colors and I'd rather mix than bake. Plus, if you're doing camo, you are much better off with DC, Moly is a real pain to try to camo with (and I'm one of the few guys who have done a camo job with Mol

I've wondered if this might work myself! I've got an extra one lying around... PLEASE let us know how it turns out!!

I've got a new load, going to try it this weekend - will try to post results if they are better than my other results. I love my Saiga, haven't shot it much, but it's super dependable and far more accurate than people think it's going to be. Having said that, I could use some cash and I'm considering putting it up for sale. It is a fully tricked out Saiga, I'm worried that I'll lose my butt on it.