brickfield mfg

He's still on the ak forum. I bought one of the ones he had specially machined for replacements about a year ago. Folks seem to be pretty happy with the sub-$100 microdots from Primary Arms. They were sold out for some time, but are recently back in stock. I just read that he is out of the business, but his daughter is running the operation now. I will give them a try and see if it pans out. I am afraid the cheap microdot sights... I bought a Sig micro-sight (Aimpoint T1 clone) and used it for a while on my S12, but it failed not too long after I started using it - that is why I w

Thanks for the heads up on the PRO. I did consider that if no other inexpensive option was available.

The PU scope is a nice, compact model for a Vepr 12, and works well when I am on the edge of a tree line, and trying to get a better view into the woods. I am looking for a red dot or holosight, but after shucking out the money for a new Vepr 12 FSF, I am strapped for funds, and would like to get by with something under $250 that is reliable! Not an easy feat!!! I thought he was no longer doing business...

Cobra 76 - Have you tired the PK-A sight? Any thoughts on that model?

I own a Kobra with a picatinny base.... Know where I can get a new on/off knob??? I went to turn it on one day, and it sheared off!!! You gotta be shittin me. I have the same one and the same damned thing happened to mine. Please let me know if you find a replacement. I have three others with the side mount but they don't help much with the Vepr 12. I think it is a fairly common problem with the older Kobras to have this happen! The knob is made of some cheap cast "pot metal", and if there is the least bit of resistance when you turn it.... SNAP!!! I did not like this sight on my S

Thanks. I will send them a message and see if they can help.

I own a Kobra with a picatinny base.... Know where I can get a new on/off knob??? I went to turn it on one day, and it sheared off!!!

Let's hear what you are using, and why you chose it! I am looking for ideas for a new VEPR 12 FSF that is coming this week..... I need something rugged enough to take to the field hunting (harsh Midwest winter conditions), but won't kill my wallet!!! I am currently using (on a fixed stock model VEPR 12) an Aimpoint T-1 with an ARMS #31 throw lever base, and have a Russian PU scope with throw lever rings that I can easily swap out when the need for a low magnification scope arises. I like the compact size and rugged quality of both the T-1 and the PU. (this is cross posted on th

Adjust your sight to shoot 4" to the right, and go with it!

Anyone know if a drop case for the RPK or RPK-74 will work with a VEPR12? If not, is there anyone out there making "custom" drop cases?

that's the guy that would never tell how he made his lrbho Some people just don't like to share... Until it comes time for THEM to need information!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J94UVBS9EEw And we have a winner.....

Occasionally those "bedside" guns are taken outside and used for practice. If you happen to live in a climate where it is an issue, those who do not know of this little shortcoming might want to be made aware of it.

Just be aware that if you live in a part of the country that has a "real" winter, green lasers will NOT work in the cold!

Sadly, people no longer understand that this is part of the natural selection proscess, and think they have to "fix" stupid.

Something to consider when adjusting the gas flow setting on an S12.... if you plan on shooting from that possition.

That is the route I went.

When I first set up optics on my Vepr 12, I had an Aimpoint T1 mounted on the forward section of the rail, and mounted a Russian PU behind it. My thought was to be able to co-witness the two, and use the PU as a magnifier of sorts (or as a stand alone optic) when needed. Pappazorro commented on how there were problems with this setup. He did not mention creating ejection problems, but said there were problems with the optics being battered by ejecting hulls when mounted forward of the ejection port. I wonder if some of the stress placed on the optics were from the condition you are having with

You can have the best of both worlds.... When you have your barrel cut back, and the JTE brake welded on, you could have the barrel counterbored and tapped for an interchangeable choke system (Remchoke, Winchoke, etc.).

Invest in a dial caliper... You can find some decent inexpensive ones around, and they come in handy for all sorts of uses besides firearms. As for the ports... I would think they will be fine with two slightly oversized, and two slightly undersized. Do the math - .076 X 4 = .304" of area .098 X 2 = .196" .065 X 2 = .13" .196 + .13 = .326" of area

HK sights were designed for the G3 rifle, and represent 100,200,300, and 400 meters.

I have a bunch of these... http://www.keepshooting.com/saiga-12-gauge-5rd-magazine.html They have never failed me yet, and are inexpensive!!!

Minimum length for a shotgun barrel (without registering it as a SBS - or "short barrel shotgun" - with the ATF) is 18". If you are only cutting 1 1/2" or 2" off, and permanently attaching a muzzle device, it should not affect anything. This is assuming that your gun is functioning well BEFORE the barrel mod!

I guess that would depend on your physical dimensions, and personal preference. I am 6'3", with large hands, and I use the original AFG.

AFG2 is narrower and shorter than the AFG1. http://store.magpul.com/prod_detail_list/88