Gunfixr

Well obviously you need enough heat to make a puddle and fuse everything together, but you don't want to just melt it all down and have it run away. As far as heat ruining various parts, you mostly don't weld on any real stressed areas when doing a conversion. Unless you take a long time to get the welding done, and therefore apply heat for a longer time, spreading it further from the point of origin, you should be fine. That's the idea with practicing on similar thicknesses and types of metal, so you can get a feel for the heat setting. You'll find that you can often use a rather low heat se

Whaddyasay ???????????? Seriously, my hearing is about half gone anyway, so it's not loud to me. Second, my FAL tank brake just blows its doors off for personal assault anyway. That thing could give you a nosebleed, even if you're the one firing it.

No problem, I've got a months worth of work right now anyway, and hunting season is always hectic.

TIG is better for gun work, you can plug holes with MIG, but a lot of jobs just won't work with wire feed. +100 on the scrap metal. Get it in different thickness, going ever thinner. If you can successfully weld .030" steel, then there isn't really anything you can't get welded. If you've got any trashed steel magazines, they're good practice, as they run about .030" thick.

Mine was like that also. If you noticed, it also has the gun to the outside of the stock, away from your body, meaning you have to lean further to get a sight picture. It's not a huge deal, but I wanted it perfect. I milled the screw pocket on the one side deeper, and drilled a new set of holes next to the original ones and set the stock flush with the one side. I have the stock set to pivot to the right, and the overhang is now on the hinge, where it's not real noticeable. Plus, the gun is more in line wioth the body, much like the "cast" on a regular shotgun. I originally had the stock p

That isn't too bad, 7/8". If it was me, and you can use the original port in the barrel, then I would shorten the gas tube like you're thinking. If there's room, I'd cut it in between the rear end of the flutes, and the front upper handguard retainer. That way you get to keep original style furniture. If there's not enough room, then I'd cut it out of the center of the flutes, making the flute length shorter. You still get to keep original style furniture. That will be easier than making that end fit the tube by flaring out the flutes. It isn't nearly as easy as it sounds or looks, especially

You know they make and sell one that doesn't have the slots on it, don't you? Would save you some trouble.

It's pretty much like cleaning anything else. If you have an AK, it cleans just like that with the exception of the gas block and plug. Field strip the weapon by making sure it is unloaded, then push in the cover lock and the button on the back end of the dust cover. It removes up and back. Then push in the button again, pushing the rear end of the recoil spring forward, and lift it up and let it back and withdraw the spring from the bolt carrier. Pull the bolt carrier all the way to the rear and lift it up out of the receiver, then draw the piston rod end from the gas tube. If you grasp t

He don't want to get in Billarys way, that's a good way to get dead. Then again .................................

I've been a machinist for over 20yrs. I've cut more threads that way than I can even remember. It's the only way I thread barrels. Getting a die straight is almost impossible, mostly they aren't straight, they're just straight enough.

+1. The gas block hole is precisely fitted to the size of the piston head, to insure adequate gas pressure to operate the system. The gas tube is merely a guide for the piston and rod to move back and forth in, and to line up closely enough to the gas block to enter it freely. In order for this to work, you will need to position the gas block on the barrel where the piston goes into it as it normally does. This entails welding up the gas port in the barrel as described, and drilling a new one once the block is placed. If you want a specific tube and handguard set, your piston and rod on t

To answer the OP, I have a lathe and can shorten and thread the removed barrel, although I can't do it for probably several weeks. I don't have the die, I'd just single point it the old fashioned way.

I've not seen one available, but then I haven't looked. If you can't find one, I can make you one.

I have one on my S12, which started out as a 19" bbl, and is now 18 1/4" at the end of the Poly Choke, not much different, really. I made my own VFG because I don't like the size of most of them, and I don't like how low they sit by the time a rail is added and then the VFG below that. Mine bolts directly to the handguard in holes I drilled along the bottom, both for mounting the VFG and venting. Mine is approx 3 3/8" from the rear end of the handguard and will clear AGP mags no problem. In fact, when the mag hits the VFG, just rock it up into the magwell. I like them for short range weapons,

Happy Birthday Topmaul, hope it's a good one.

Well, since there were no Saigas at the time, and I haven't looked at an S308 mag side by side to an HK mag, I'm not sure exactly. Doing the HK mag conversions for the Valmet consisted of cutting off the extra piece of metal affixed around the outside top half, and making and installing the front hook and rear tab onto the mag body. I TIG welded them on. I just had to get the pieces the right thickness to make the overall length front to back right, and put them in the right places to get the feed angle right. I did have a Valmet mag as a sample to work with.

I've converted several HK G3 mags and some 20rd. curved CETME mags to work in a Valmet .308. They all worked fine. This was before Saigas were imported.

Yes, the flat can be used to locate the PG nut hole from the trigger hole. I just reuse the original safety stop plate, cutting off the excess right where it bulges down. I attach it right under the front end of the trigger guard. You canuse the same rivet or screw, or weld.

We (meaning I) do conversions. We are an FFL holder, so it's legal to ship to us, and we can ship directly back to you. We are down in the business section. We are currently able to deliver in about 60 days, based on total backlog, but probably sooner. Friearms Sales Co.

Finally got the Cobray finished, sat around for weeks waiting for an opportunity to Duracoat them. Got them done, did the inside as well, to help protect against the corrosiveness of the ammo. Took it to the range and ran about 150 rounds through it, as it "broke in" it got better. Working good now. The empties eject about 15-20 ft. away. The strap on the back will loop around the neck and under the shoulder and pull tight, making it almost as stable as a rifle. Anyway, here's some pics:

All I can say is WOW. I looked at this thread several days ago when it started, got a little chuckle, and moved on. Now I see it's still here, and read a couple of the last posts. Decided to go back and read the whole thing, from beginning to end. Byt the time I was halfway down page 3, I wasn't even sure what the thread was about anymore. I think that's a first. At least I've been drinking most of the evening, makes it a bit better. It's not even entertaining anymore. You guys know that when you argue with a fool it becomes difficult to tell who the fool is, right ??

I converted an M11/9 to 7.62 Tokarev, and used CZ26 mags, which are double feed. Works great. While I have a mag box that will hold 12ga., I'm primarily interested in making a 20ga. mag out of it. The AGPs kind of negate the need for a 12ga. hicap mag.

I got a box that will hold 20 and 12 ga. With some modification, I can make it fit either the S20 or S12. It will probably hold 10 20 ga. shells, but only 6 or 7 12 ga. shells.

I got an idea for one, but it's going to be close to a month at least to work on it. I donm't think it's going to hold 10, probably 6 at least. Maybe 7.

From what I've found out, it's been a "tack on" violation. So far. There have been questionable weapons found in a search warrant or other seizure that turned out to be non-compliant and the charge was added. It doesn't seem to be a real priority with BATFE. That said, it should not be taken to mean that you can just ignore it (922r). This could change at any moment. Since the law exists, they can decide for themselves just how much of a priority it is. You don't want to be the one they start with, especially with how easy it is to avoid. This argument is kind of similar to the "cut off my