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Problem with my .308 conversion


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Finally got around to test firing my .308 conversion this afternoon and immediately ran into problems. When I originally did the conversion I left the original hammer in and used the G2 trigger, disconnector, US pistol grip and buttstock, along with the FBMG magazines (6 US compliance parts). G2 hammer would not fit and clear the receiver cross rivet. Unfortunately my test firing was cut short when the rifle began doubling intermittently (possibly tripling).

 

The FCG was removed and I drove home. I've never had problems with FCGs before but I figure the problem is one of two things or a combination of the two. I have now replaced the original SAIGA hammer with a military one that I grinded down and contoured to clear the cross rivet. The picture below shows the area that I reshaped. If it works I will then contour the same area on the G2 hammer and install it in order to use the stock 8 round mag also in the rifle.

 

 

The G2 trigger appeared to be possibly contacting the front of the trigger cutout in the receiver. I've had this happen on a couple of receivers previously on early models of the Gordon Tech FCG's and this is one of the sets I had from Gordon before he sold the rights to TAPCO. I used a dremel to reshape the leading edges of the trigger as marked in the picture. The trigger now has sufficient clearance with the receiver.

 

These are the only possible areas I can think of that would have caused the firing issue. I'm going to leave the current foreign hammer in the rifle that I have contoured to clear the cross rivet until I am able to test fire again and ensure that the rifle fires correctly.

 

I had originally installed the BHO when I did the conversion. I removed it to modify it and had not reinstalled it. I believe the pivot point on the original hammer is slightly undersized compared to hammers from military weapons and possibly by leaving the BHO device out it caused a slight side to side play that caused the hammer to fail to reset causing it to follow the bolt carrier forward causing the doubling at times.

 

Is this a common modification to the G2 hammer to get it to fit correctly in the SAIGA?

Has anyone else had the firing issue that I experienced?

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Edited by Mak
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I left the BHO out of mine and haven't had any trouble. In fact I think it was making the original spring hang up in the works because I tweaked it too much installing it. I used a Red Star FCG. It comes with a new hammer. It sounds like pretty much everyone that puts in G2's has to make some modifications. The RSA trigger works great now that I have it figured out.

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After my conversion I noticed that there seemed a potential for the trigger to remain almost fully pulled in such a manner that the trigger/disconnector, as assembled, would not catch the hammer, yet the hook was clear of the firing pin. It seemed that depending on your timing of release of the trigger, you might just get some doubling up. I have yet to have this happen in actual experience, but I can see from screwing around with the assembly that it could happen. For that reason, you might reconsider, and install the G2 hammer (after grinding away the parts to clear the receiver cross rivet and possibly to retain your BHO). I'd think the G2 parts were better designed to line up with each other than a mix of components

 

A few thoughts...

First you may reconsider this as a problem (probably not, but just a thought).

Second, I don't believe your hammer is the problem in itself, but possibly the disconnector is too short to catch the depressed factory hammer under a partial trigger release, yet your hook is still clear of the hammer. The G2 hammer may eliminate the problem if it's slightly longer/taller than the factory hammer though.

Third, you might want to experiment to see if this is your problem by intentionally holding the trigger full on upon firing to see if the problem disappears, only to come back under your normal circumstances - that might indicate the partial trigger depression issue described.

Edited by buckandaquarterquarterstaff
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For that reason, you might reconsider, and install the G2 hammer (after grinding away the parts to clear the receiver cross rivet and possibly to retain your BHO). I'd think the G2 parts were better designed to line up with each other than a mix of components

 

First you may reconsider this as a problem (probably not, but just a thought).

Second, I don't believe your hammer is the problem in itself, but possibly the disconnector is too short to catch the depressed factory hammer under a partial trigger release, yet your hook is still clear of the hammer. The G2 hammer may eliminate the problem if it's slightly longer/taller than the factory hammer though.

 

I think that is probably it. I will get out again next week.

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Did you forget to install a disconnector spring?

 

No, disconnector is in there and hammer spring is correctly placed.

 

But is the little spring under the disconnector?

 

Yes, I left the word "spring" out. I test the trigger on my AKs before shooting. The disconnector has to be pressed down and trigger moved forward so the selector lever can be reinstalled in the rifle if you do it after the FCG is installed. I use the RSA plate so I install the selector last. I always check for the disconnector spring on my rifles when reinstalling. Without the disconnector spring the FCG will not function/reset correctly.

Edited by Mak
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I have 7 AK rifles and have the G2 installed in most of them. I have an RSA FCG but have not ever bothered installing it in a rifle and leaving it there. The one I have doesn't have the VEPR hammer so I don't think it would work. I just can't see ordering another RSA when I have one I have never installed and left in a rifle.

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I had the problem of the hammer hitting the cross bar/rivit with the G2.Grinded the front part of the hammer until it cleared.One thing i learned that makes the G2 much smoother is to polish where the hammer and trigger make contact.These two surfaces are fairly rough from the get go as far as triggers go.I use a small cloth wheel on my Dremil and some Flitz polish,(Polish, dont grind!) add a touch of lube and it makes the trigger pull and creep a whole lot better.

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+1 w/ 308 disconnector spring dia. & g2

+1 3/ g2 & reciever fit (I relieved the reciever)

+1 w/ g2 hammer

(is that a total of +3?)

 

I still have to weld and file my selector for saftey fit.

The detent on a stock selector is farther up the lever.

 

Also having trouble with the trigger guard. Do I force it 1/4" shorter?

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post-3878-1168308008_thumb.jpgI finally got out to test fire the rifle today after replacing the factory hammer with a modified European hammer. The rifle fired flawlessly using both FBMG 20 round mags. The target was placed at 75 yards with the factory zeroed iron sights. Intervening desert brush was between the target and myself. Old target was used as it was getting dark and there were signs warning about smuggling of drugs and illegals in the area just North of the Mexican border. Discarded water bottles and a serape were present beside the trails heading South toward the border.

 

I rapid fired to test function of the rifle and not so much for accuracy as I'm not that great with iron sights on an AK. A scope will be installed before the next trip out but first I will take it to a range with known distance and fire from a rest and a bag for any sight adjustments.

 

The recoil of the rifle was minimal and nowhere near the recoil of my .30-06 deer rifles. I used Barnaul Silver Bear 145 gr. FMJ. I observed that a few of the rounds were deflected by the intervening brush and one can be seen entering sideways on the target.

 

The first 8 shots were fired in a standing offhand position. 3 of these shots entered at the 10 ring. I then exchanged mags and dropped to a Marine Corps kneeling position with a hasty sling hold and rapid fired with the FBMG mags. My shots all impacted the target high and left, this could be a result of the sling hold pulling the rifle left so I will fire from a bag before making any changes with the iron sites.

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disconnectormodification.jpg

I had trouble with my G2 doubling as well. I noticed that the disconnector had a precarious hold on the hammer when the trigger was in it`s rearward position.Holding the trigger at it`s rearmost position with the disconnector engaged over the hammer s l o w l y realese the trigger to the point where the disco lets go and the trigger has possesion of it,see how well the hammer is held by the trigger and how much rearward movement of the trigger is needed to realease the hammer.

Mine was not satisfactory,when the disconnector lets the trigger have the hammer there should be plenty of travel required to release the hammer by pulling the trigger back.

I modified my disconnector in the manner illustrated above by removing metal in a flat plane from the area under the red line,this allows the disconnector more forward travel and allows a better purchase of the hammer when the trigger is in it`s rearmost position,remove a little at a time until it seems right. It worked just dandy for me.

Hope this helps.

Bossman

Edited by Bossman
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