chicago pins

[jailbait 2]

anyone else come up with a better solution than chicago pins for the back two pin replacements.

 

also, what is the little spring for? i mean it's tiny. i think it came out behind the BHO, but i'm not sure.

 

oh, and i'm not done with the install, still have to put in the main spring and the chicago pins, but my trigger won't squeeze yet. am i running into a problem?

[devildog1122 0]

(1) I do away with the two pins and put a thin piece a metal behind two two holes on each side of the receiver and fill them with Loctite steel & metal bonding compound. Wait 24 hours, file it smooth and blue them.

 

(2) I do away with bho, I think is in the way with my finger when pulling the trigger. This just my personal preference, if you like the bho, put it in.

 

(3) I bought 3/16 x 19/32 Hair Pin Clips at lowes to retain the hammer and trigger pins. This fit perfect and secure.

[devildog1122 0]

About your trigger won't squeese, check to see if the front portion of your pistol grip is binding with the trigger housing. I had to file a little of the front portion of my pistol grip because it is so close the trigger housing when I pull the trigger.

[nalioth 405]

What is a Chicago pin?

 

I use rivets in the holes, myself. Some folks also use screws (the type used in screw builds).

[jailbait 2]

(1) I do away with the two pins and put a thin piece a metal behind two two holes on each side of the receiver and fill them with Loctite steel & metal bonding compound. Wait 24 hours, file it smooth and blue them.

 

(2) I do away with bho, I think is in the way with my finger when pulling the trigger. This just my personal preference, if you like the bho, put it in.

 

(3) I bought 3/16 x 19/32 Hair Pin Clips at lowes to retain the hammer and trigger pins. This fit perfect and secure.

 

so how did you complete step 7 of the conversion then?

 

 

[devildog1122 0]

If you are askiing about step 7?

 

I bought 3/16 x 19/32 Hair Pin Clips at lowes to retain the hammer and trigger pins. This fit perfect and secure.

[devildog1122 0]

Some people I have seen just left the two holes on each side of the receiver empty. I think it also look kinda cool....

[PsychoticReaction 0]

"oh, and i'm not done with the install, still have to put in the main spring and the chicago pins, but my trigger won't squeeze yet. am i running into a problem?"

 

Did you put the hammer in backwards? Am I the only one to have done this? PLEEEZE tell me I'm not!

[devildog1122 0]

Check the clearance under you hammer when you put that pan head srew in. If the screw head is tall enough the hammer will bind and it would go all the forward and strike the firing pin. To test it, the hammer should go all the forward touching the reinforcement bar, if is not, you have a binding problem with the screw. This is the reason whey I don't use screw like the steps on the conversion.

[SOPMOD 254]

I ditch that crap and put E-clips on my axis pins and the thread the holes,turn screws through them from the inside and mill or grind off the excess of the protruding screws and viola..

 

 

 

E-clips

Edited June 29, 2007 by SOPMOD

[jgillaspy 24]

Check out this thread! Hole Covers. I did this and it looks great.

Edited June 29, 2007 by Ax-Man

[quinci956 1]

(1) I do away with the two pins and put a thin piece a metal behind two two holes on each side of the receiver and fill them with Loctite steel & metal bonding compound. Wait 24 hours, file it smooth and blue them.

 

(2) I do away with bho, I think is in the way with my finger when pulling the trigger. This just my personal preference, if you like the bho, put it in.

 

(3) I bought 3/16 x 19/32 Hair Pin Clips at lowes to retain the hammer and trigger pins. This fit perfect and secure.

 

so how did you complete step 7 of the conversion then?

 

 

 

I used this to keep the pins in place and get rid of that stupid spring. http://www.tapco.com/proddesc.aspx?id=a6d8...18-95fc4a96e9ab

 

I have since used these to fill the holes. http://www.tapco.com/proddesc.aspx?id=a5d0...57-8abac54ce1e5 They look like rivets except for the small allen screw hole in the center.

[Navy87Guy 1]

(2) I do away with bho, I think is in the way with my finger when pulling the trigger. This just my personal preference, if you like the bho, put it in.

 

Personally, I like the BHO option. You can use the Dremel to trim the activation arm on the BHO so it's out of the way an unobtrusive. Just insert it, mark it with a Sharpie and trim it back.

 

If you're going to use the BHO, you have to file the right side of the hammer or you'll never get everything back in and get the axis pin seated properly.

 

I used the retaining plate, too -- very easy and secure.

 

Good luck!

 

Jim

[Navy87Guy 1]

oh, and i'm not done with the install, still have to put in the main spring and the chicago pins, but my trigger won't squeeze yet. am i running into a problem?

 

I'm sitting here with my rifle in my hands, trying to figure out exactly what you mean by "my trigger won't squeeze". Can you be a little more specific? Do you have the axis pin for the trigger in place and the trigger won't move? If so, then yes - you have a problem. Or do you mean you pull the trigger and it doesn't release the hammer? By main spring, do you mean the hammer spring?

 

Just trying to figure out exactly what you've got so you can get some help diagnosing the problem.

 

Jim

[jailbait 2]

(2) I do away with bho, I think is in the way with my finger when pulling the trigger. This just my personal preference, if you like the bho, put it in.

 

Personally, I like the BHO option. You can use the Dremel to trim the activation arm on the BHO so it's out of the way an unobtrusive. Just insert it, mark it with a Sharpie and trim it back.

 

If you're going to use the BHO, you have to file the right side of the hammer or you'll never get everything back in and get the axis pin seated properly.

 

I used the retaining plate, too -- very easy and secure.

 

Good luck!

 

Jim

 

 

okay, i'm ordering the retaining plate tonight. how's it install?

[quinci956 1]

(2) I do away with bho, I think is in the way with my finger when pulling the trigger. This just my personal preference, if you like the bho, put it in.

 

Personally, I like the BHO option. You can use the Dremel to trim the activation arm on the BHO so it's out of the way an unobtrusive. Just insert it, mark it with a Sharpie and trim it back.

 

If you're going to use the BHO, you have to file the right side of the hammer or you'll never get everything back in and get the axis pin seated properly.

 

I used the retaining plate, too -- very easy and secure.

 

Good luck!

 

Jim

okay, i'm ordering the retaining plate tonight. how's it install?

You are going to have to dremel some of the metal from the bottom of one side of your saftey. You can push it in and see where it contacts the fcg that prevents it from turing into place. This is very easy and takes only a few minutes with a dremmel cutting wheel. Before you assemble, put your pins in and slide the retainer plate into place. You may have to grind off some of the area over where the saftey fits through the plate. You will just need to flatten the curve off so it will fit under the rail.

[Navy87Guy 1]

You are going to have to dremel some of the metal from the bottom of one side of your saftey. You can push it in and see where it contacts the fcg that prevents it from turing into place. This is very easy and takes only a few minutes with a dremmel cutting wheel. Before you assemble, put your pins in and slide the retainer plate into place. You may have to grind off some of the area over where the saftey fits through the plate. You will just need to flatten the curve off so it will fit under the rail.

 

Hmmm...I didn't have to do anything to my safety lever to get the retaining plate installed. I used the TAPCO plate and it went straight in...no muss, no fuss.

 

Jailbait, take a look at the two axis pins. You'll see the shoulder near the head - that's where the spring assembly goes. The retaining plate is designed to sit in the same groove and hold the pins in place. The pivot arm for the safety selector goes through the third hole (at the rear). It's a slick set up and takes about 8 seconds to install. You'll be glad you did it!

 

Jim

[quinci956 1]

You are going to have to dremel some of the metal from the bottom of one side of your saftey. You can push it in and see where it contacts the fcg that prevents it from turing into place. This is very easy and takes only a few minutes with a dremmel cutting wheel. Before you assemble, put your pins in and slide the retainer plate into place. You may have to grind off some of the area over where the saftey fits through the plate. You will just need to flatten the curve off so it will fit under the rail.

 

Hmmm...I didn't have to do anything to my safety lever to get the retaining plate installed. I used the TAPCO plate and it went straight in...no muss, no fuss.

 

Jailbait, take a look at the two axis pins. You'll see the shoulder near the head - that's where the spring assembly goes. The retaining plate is designed to sit in the same groove and hold the pins in place. The pivot arm for the safety selector goes through the third hole (at the rear). It's a slick set up and takes about 8 seconds to install. You'll be glad you did it!

 

Jim

I had to in my 223 and my S12. I was also using the Power Custom FCG. I have not done a conversion with the G2 FCG. I like the ability to adjust the trigger and it fit in both the 223 and S12 without screwing with the hammer. If the saftey goes straight in without trimming some of the fat, then it is even easier. Either way get rid of that stupid retaining spring and loose those stupid chicaco pins. They really screw up the look of the gun. When that sight was posted there weren't a lot of other known options but now several alternatives have been discovered by home conversion pioneers with a little imagination.

[jailbait 2]

 

so which end goes where?

[kresk 10,063]

Invert it, then it goes (r to l) hammer, trigger, safety.

[jailbait 2]

so with that installed, i shouldn't have to cut the stock like the tutorial says correct? since i'm going to be installing the nylon plugs instead of cross memebers?

[Navy87Guy 1]

No, you shouldn't have to notch the receiver block for the pins like the tutorial shows. Depending on what you are using, though, expect to have to do some fitting. My ACE receiver block took quite a bit of grinding to get it to fit right - easy with the Dremel, but certainly not a drop in.

 

Tritium is right -- the notched end goes over the hammer axid pin, the middle one is for the trigger pin and the circular end is for the safety.

 

Jim

[scoutjoe 276]

No, you shouldn't have to notch the receiver block for the pins like the tutorial shows. Depending on what you are using, though, expect to have to do some fitting. My ACE receiver block took quite a bit of grinding to get it to fit right - easy with the Dremel, but certainly not a drop in.

 

Tritium is right -- the notched end goes over the hammer axid pin, the middle one is for the trigger pin and the circular end is for the safety.

Jim

 

And that little metal part will save you about 3 beers, 2 hours of swearing like a sailor and the ability to go from gun to barreled reciever in about a min

 

aka...worth its weight in pure unobtainum!

[jailbait 2]

figured out the trigger problem. had the hammer spring in upsidedown. that and the safety was on. i love me some times. if i didn't i'd be to depressed. i make myself laugh alot.