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I'm thinking of designing a cheap muzzle break


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My day job is a mechanical engineer. I'm thinking of designing up a cheap muzzle break for the Saiga-12 since I can't see spending $100 on some fancy muzzle break and the CHAOS muzzle break has holes all around, which really doesn't do much as a muzzle break...

 

The only way to make these cost effective would be to design it myself (easy to do) and find a fab shop to pump out a run of at least 200 or so...

 

Would anyone currently in possession of a Saiga-12 muzzle break mind giving me some measurements off it? I'd like to know the following..

 

Type of Muzzle Break:

Overall length:

Inside Diameter:

Outside Diameter:

Length of Internal Threading:

 

I do know that the threading is M22 X .75

 

 

If anyone has a few minutes, I'd really appreciate that info to get me started... I'm thinking of something pretty simple, like an 7000-series aluminum tube with 3 rows of holes (vertical up and 45 degrees to each side) and either anodized or painted. Simple = cheap. :D

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My day job is a mechanical engineer. I'm thinking of designing up a cheap muzzle break for the Saiga-12 since I can't see spending $100 on some fancy muzzle break and the CHAOS muzzle break has holes all around, which really doesn't do much as a muzzle break...

 

The only way to make these cost effective would be to design it myself (easy to do) and find a fab shop to pump out a run of at least 200 or so...

 

Would anyone currently in possession of a Saiga-12 muzzle break mind giving me some measurements off it? I'd like to know the following..

 

Type of Muzzle Break:

Overall length:

Inside Diameter:

Outside Diameter:

Length of Internal Threading:

 

I do know that the threading is M22 X .75

 

 

If anyone has a few minutes, I'd really appreciate that info to get me started... I'm thinking of something pretty simple, like an 7000-series aluminum tube with 3 rows of holes (vertical up and 45 degrees to each side) and either anodized or painted. Simple = cheap. :D

 

barrel threads are not timed?

 

you would have to include a locking nut

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Why not take the Chaos break, screw it on all of the way, mark the bottom holes, have them welded and ground smooth, and then repaint? Sounds easier than designing a whole new break to me

 

 

 

My day job is a mechanical engineer. I'm thinking of designing up a cheap muzzle break for the Saiga-12 since I can't see spending $100 on some fancy muzzle break and the CHAOS muzzle break has holes all around, which really doesn't do much as a muzzle break...

 

The only way to make these cost effective would be to design it myself (easy to do) and find a fab shop to pump out a run of at least 200 or so...

 

Would anyone currently in possession of a Saiga-12 muzzle break mind giving me some measurements off it? I'd like to know the following..

 

Type of Muzzle Break:

Overall length:

Inside Diameter:

Outside Diameter:

Length of Internal Threading:

 

I do know that the threading is M22 X .75

 

 

If anyone has a few minutes, I'd really appreciate that info to get me started... I'm thinking of something pretty simple, like an 7000-series aluminum tube with 3 rows of holes (vertical up and 45 degrees to each side) and either anodized or painted. Simple = cheap. :D

 

barrel threads are not timed?

 

you would have to include a locking nut

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Damn, the man wants to take a shot at designing a cheap effective muzzle brake and you guys shoot him down. Thatguy331 send me a PM with your eMail address and I will send you some ideas and research.

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Damn, the man wants to take a shot at designing a cheap effective muzzle brake and you guys shoot him down. Thatguy331 send me a PM with your eMail address and I will send you some ideas and research.

 

 

Not trying to shoot him down, just suggesting a quicker fix to his dilema. Then he can spend the time he would have spent in design and research outside shooting his shotgun :)

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My day job is a mechanical engineer. I'm thinking of designing up a cheap muzzle break for the Saiga-12 since I can't see spending $100 on some fancy muzzle break and the CHAOS muzzle break has holes all around, which really doesn't do much as a muzzle break...

 

The only way to make these cost effective would be to design it myself (easy to do) and find a fab shop to pump out a run of at least 200 or so...

 

Would anyone currently in possession of a Saiga-12 muzzle break mind giving me some measurements off it? I'd like to know the following..

 

Type of Muzzle Break:

Overall length:

Inside Diameter:

Outside Diameter:

Length of Internal Threading:

 

I do know that the threading is M22 X .75

 

 

If anyone has a few minutes, I'd really appreciate that info to get me started... I'm thinking of something pretty simple, like an 7000-series aluminum tube with 3 rows of holes (vertical up and 45 degrees to each side) and either anodized or painted. Simple = cheap. :D

 

I have one like this at the house.

 

saiga12_flash_hider1.jpg

 

Let me know if that's the type you need the measurements on.

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I am all for someone designing a new one! Thatguy331, if you want me to loan you the Izhmash one like in the picture, PM me. I think it would be great to have more options for all of us!

 

What I would love to see is a break like the JP Enterprises or the Barrett .50's (especially if it had mean and evil teeth on the end - the best of both worlds). I think our IPSC guy from Hawaii has done a few like that on competition conversions. But even the Tromix break is mainly for looks and not really functional from a recoil and muzzle jump standpoint. My perspective is that if a brake for shooting slugs can tame 50% (or so) of the recoil of what it is now, I would buy one! With birdshot, I can rapid fire all day. With slugs (even with my flash hider or shark break), I have to take it slow and have my fill after about 15 rounds.

 

I am shocked at how little support there is for this guys! If this was another 8 round magazine, would you be discouraging someone's ingenuity to make a cheap and quickly available product?

 

And who doesn't want another cheap 922r Compliance part?

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I have one like this at the house.

 

saiga12_flash_hider1.jpg

 

Let me know if that's the type you need the measurements on.

 

That would work fine, just trying to get a feel on the rough dimensions of them. Also, who makes that particular flash suppressor?

 

That's a Factory Izhmash Flash Hider. I'll send you the measurements tonight.

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I have one like this at the house.

 

saiga12_flash_hider1.jpg

 

Let me know if that's the type you need the measurements on.

 

That would work fine, just trying to get a feel on the rough dimensions of them. Also, who makes that particular flash suppressor?

 

That's a Factory Izhmash Flash Hider. I'll send you the measurements tonight.

 

 

can you please send those measurements to me too...

 

and to the person who said that getting dimensions was copying..... you're wrong, its part of design, you research what is out there and what already sorta works, and you REFINE it so that it is cheaper/better/easier than what is already out there, it gives you a rough idea of where to start so that you can customize what you like.....

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I'm confused.

Doesn't 'designing' mean 'to design'? Then why do you need all the specs and advice? Thats copying, not designing.

All you need is your gun and a dial caliper and your brain. Now get to work :)

 

lol, why re-design the wheel when its already there?

 

I just need some sample measurements since I don't have a muzzle break handy... and I have zero experience in muzzle break design... I know the pros probably crank out hundreds of prototypes and test them on a rig to measure the effectiveness of the design.

 

Yeah, I'm not going to go that far, The most I can see me doing is giving a drawing to a local fab shop, have them make 1, test it out, make a change or two, then do a run of 100 or so.

 

So if anyone has any info for me, it would be appreciated!

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Yeah, I'm not going to go that far, The most I can see me doing is giving a drawing to a local fab shop, have them make 1, test it out, make a change or two, then do a run of 100 or so.

 

So if anyone has any info for me, it would be appreciated!

 

Those sweet Ak muzzle breaks with the Inverted cones look like something from starwars. My fav is the top vented with integral front sights,...thread on or compression fitting it gets me going, I am a designer too, however tractirs and such don't really relate to russian guns that weel,

I just know what I like, and if it works well,.., that's the fun of it,..

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is this what yuo're thinkin with a barret style brake??

 

just a little somethin I threw together, I'm talking with my machinist friend on how to make them.....

no promises, but I'm tryin

 

 

Damn that's cool!

 

Could you modify a factory muzzle extension to function as a muzzle brake?

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My day job is a mechanical engineer. I'm thinking of designing up a cheap muzzle break for the Saiga-12 since I can't see spending $100 on some fancy muzzle break and the CHAOS muzzle break has holes all around, which really doesn't do much as a muzzle break...

 

The only way to make these cost effective would be to design it myself (easy to do) and find a fab shop to pump out a run of at least 200 or so...

 

Would anyone currently in possession of a Saiga-12 muzzle break mind giving me some measurements off it? I'd like to know the following..

 

Type of Muzzle Break:

Overall length:

Inside Diameter:

Outside Diameter:

Length of Internal Threading:

 

I do know that the threading is M22 X .75

 

 

If anyone has a few minutes, I'd really appreciate that info to get me started... I'm thinking of something pretty simple, like an 7000-series aluminum tube with 3 rows of holes (vertical up and 45 degrees to each side) and either anodized or painted. Simple = cheap. :D

 

Type of Muzzle Break: Russian Izhmash Flash Hider

Overall length: 2-19/32" (66mm)

Inside Diameter: 3/4" (19mm)

Outside Diameter: 1-1/32" (26mm)

Length of Internal Threading: Now comes the interesting part....

 

P1040484.jpg

 

The threads are 3/8" long then there is about 1/8" of recessed area the a ring then another recessed area that goes another 1/8" then the ID ID of 19mm. - Sorry I do not have the proper calipers to get the ID of all of the internal stuff.

 

Hope this helps a little

 

sKott

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I applaud you for taking on this project. There are a few well known examples of S-12 brakes and hiders, some originals by our forum members, some from Izhmash, and some knockoffs.

 

Here is something I put together for one of our members in Bulgaria so that he could make his own FH just exactly like the original Izzy one the he cannot buy over there.

 

He made one for himself and sent me one for helping him with the dimensions. Holding it next to my factory one it was very hard to tell the difference! Great job Svilen! Thanks!

 

post-1293-1202572953_thumb.jpg

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Here's a cool design for a brake that a friend of mine has on his 12-C. Neither of us knows where it originated, it was permanently attached when he bought the Saiga. I would like to have something like this. If you want to make something like that, or similar, I can help with the dimensions.

post-1293-1202573322_thumb.jpg

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Here's a couple of pics I just took of the factory FH and a factory choke showing the threads. These are pretty much like the other one sKott posted...measurements should be close.

post-1293-1202575444_thumb.jpg

Measured with calipers, the ID of the threads is .838".

The depth of the threads meauring from the base is .450".

The step ends at .869".

 

Feel free to PM me for any more measurements you need. I have several brakes and hiders to measure or comparisons.

 

Good luck with the aluminum, I hope it holds up to punishment. Isn't aluminum just as high as steel right now anyway? I guess milling it would be easier though.

Edited by Cobra 76 two
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Here is an observation for you, I have seen a bunch of guys show up at competitions with various breaks on guns, and find that what they really need is choke so if you want to make something that will sell reasonably priced chokes for the Saiga maybe bling them a bit with a muzzle brake look.

Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

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Can anyone get me some pics of how the polychoke works??? like pics and measurements of how it comes apart, or the peices seperate??

 

if anyone around Central KY has one that I could borrow for a few hours that would be AWESOME as well

 

I have some 7075 aluminum on the way, hopefully I'll have some info in a few weeks

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Here is an observation for you, I have seen a bunch of guys show up at competitions with various breaks on guns, and find that what they really need is choke so if you want to make something that will sell reasonably priced chokes for the Saiga maybe bling them a bit with a muzzle brake look.

Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

 

 

Hmm the man is right, muzzle brakes dont work in low pressure guns at all, port barrel and poly in the end

of the barrel or a true glow like the poly will work great in a shotgun. But if is for looks you can install

anything in the end of any gun.

 

My 2 cents.

Edited by vjor
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This is the only place I have ever seen my life that pushes chokes for buckshot.

 

Unless I am missing the point and you guys are shooting birdshot in competition. I admittedly know very little know little about shotgun competition.

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This is the only place I have ever seen my life that pushes chokes for buckshot.

 

Unless I am missing the point and you guys are shooting birdshot in competition. I admittedly know very little know little about shotgun competition.

 

yea man, they use bird shot, on the poly you set it up on cylinder or wide open if you want to use buck .

 

I have use Cyl, Imp cyl and modifide on buck but not on a poly choke, but other shotguns for pigs ( wild board).

Edited by vjor
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