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HALO Modification--Lightning cuts


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I was sitting here racking the bolt on my Saiga12, and was thinking aobut how heavy the HALO rail is. It added a considerable amount of weight to the front end. I had been thinking about doing some lightning cuts since I first picked up the rail. I finally got around to doing it, and it turned out pretty nice. I know how ya'll like pics so I "documented the process.

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Here is the setup in my milling machine. This took forever, but measure twice (or three times), and cut once!

 

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I had to mill a flat for the drill bit to contact.

 

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Punching the holes.

 

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Finished in the milling machine. Note the rail on the right side that had to be removed to accomodate the bolt handle. This was a design flaw, but easily remedied.

 

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Degreased it and re-hit it with Aluma-Hyde II. I have been pretty pleased with the Aluma-Hyde II....seems fairly resilliant. Metal prep is the key with any re-finish though.

 

I think it turned out well, but sitting here looking at it Im wondering if I shoud have cut oblong holes instead of rounds. At any rate I shed some weight off of it, but I just dont know how much since I dont have a scale. Lighter nonetheless.

Edited by FALaholic
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alumahyde II sucks if you get oil on it it soaks in, then you can peel it off with your finger nail.

 

You should just get a good finish like moly resin

I have refinished several items with Aluma-Hyde II with great results...including a Sig P226 frame. The rails are the only place I can find wear and its not what you are describing...i.e. actual wear vs. flaking. and they stay oiled/greased. I have refinished a Ballester Molina with Teflon Moly with less than stellar results. In fact it exhibits the exact thing you describe "flaking off". Still I guess it could have been my error in prep work (refer to my first post "metal prep is key").

 

I have used it over parkerizing (phosphate) and it produces an even tougher finish.

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Very nice! I'll bet that did save some weight. I see you also saved a little by getting rid of that offensive rail end on the RH side. What a bad factory oversight... :rolleyes:

Roger that. First time I went to charge the shotgun with the new rail I caught a 'knucklefull'

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You are braver than I. The HALOs were cast, I'd be worried to remove any material.

No issues in milling it....besides its so beefy in the areas I machined that I highly doubt there will be any issues. Still a heavy thing, but lighter now than a stock.

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It would still be awesome to know how much was lost. whenever you get a chance, try to post the weight. then we'll get a couple other guys to weigh their stock HALOs. not perfect, but it'll give us a ballpark figure.

Edited by AtlSaiga
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alumahyde II sucks if you get oil on it it soaks in, then you can peel it off with your finger nail.

 

You should just get a good finish like moly resin

The baked moly resin, the air dry stuff is for stocks and items that don't get hot

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You are braver than I. The HALOs were cast, I'd be worried to remove any material.

No issues in milling it....besides its so beefy in the areas I machined that I highly doubt there will be any issues. Still a heavy thing, but lighter now than a stock.

 

You're right, I just took a look at mine and saw what you did. I weighed it too, 1.75 lbs!!!! :o

 

My Halo also has 2 lugs on the bottom half for some reason. There's some added weight there also, did you mill yours off?

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You are braver than I. The HALOs were cast, I'd be worried to remove any material.

No issues in milling it....besides its so beefy in the areas I machined that I highly doubt there will be any issues. Still a heavy thing, but lighter now than a stock.

 

You're right, I just took a look at mine and saw what you did. I weighed it too, 1.75 lbs!!!! :o

 

My Halo also has 2 lugs on the bottom half for some reason. There's some added weight there also, did you mill yours off?

Nah I left them. The forward one actually serves apurpose butted against the gas block. The rearward could have came off I suppose. I thought about milling a channel straight the center of each picatinny rail.....much like many of the AR quad-rails out there now. That would have leaned it up even more, but I stopped.

 

I wish I had a scale guys....dont even have a bathroom scale. Only thing I have is a powder scale. AH I could take it to work and weigh it....If I can remember to do it. I will repost with results.

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alumahyde II sucks if you get oil on it it soaks in, then you can peel it off with your finger nail.

 

You should just get a good finish like moly resin

The baked moly resin, the air dry stuff is for stocks and items that don't get hot

Yeah Im pretty sure this was the two part (resin+thinner) applied with an airbrush then baked. Its in the shop just to lazy to walk down there and look. It came from Brownells. I guess I could try it again but I would be more interested in an aresol form vs. the airbrush method.

 

I went back and looked at that Ballester I mentioned earlier....yep still flaking. Again it could have been my fault for lack of prep. I also went and shot the Sig P228 that I refinished with the Alumahyde II. Still no wear on the rails....I like it!

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