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Lubing the gas piston?


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Okay, I have a 19" barreled S-12 that used to be longer. When I shortened the barrel, of course I had cycling problems.

 

So I opened up the gas ports and I could cycle reliably. It would take Nitro birdshot on gas setting 1 and regular el-cheapo on setting 2. Well, last week I go to the range and I'm having more problems (no longer cycling the nitro on setting 1). I clean her out, check the gas ports for plastic (I angled them properly and found nothing blocking them) and then I drilled a 4th gas port (mine only had three). Well I go to the range and test her out today and I still couldn't cycle the Nitro's on gas setting 1.

 

This was concerning because I have a 3-gun on Sunday and a couple of the stages have birdshot and slugs in the same stage. So, I unscrewed the regulator and popped out the gas piston. I put some break-free on it and everything cycled perfectly on gas setting 1.

 

My question is, is there a problem with lubing the piston? Or am I just setting myself up for twice the crud in the future? What about a dry lube like militec-1 or some graphite?

 

Many thanks

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Okay, I have a 19" barreled S-12 that used to be longer. When I shortened the barrel, of course I had cycling problems.

 

So I opened up the gas ports and I could cycle reliably. It would take Nitro birdshot on gas setting 1 and regular el-cheapo on setting 2. Well, last week I go to the range and I'm having more problems (no longer cycling the nitro on setting 1). I clean her out, check the gas ports for plastic (I angled them properly and found nothing blocking them) and then I drilled a 4th gas port (mine only had three). Well I go to the range and test her out today and I still couldn't cycle the Nitro's on gas setting 1.

 

This was concerning because I have a 3-gun on Sunday and a couple of the stages have birdshot and slugs in the same stage. So, I unscrewed the regulator and popped out the gas piston. I put some break-free on it and everything cycled perfectly on gas setting 1.

 

My question is, is there a problem with lubing the piston? Or am I just setting myself up for twice the crud in the future? What about a dry lube like militec-1 or some graphite?

 

Many thanks

I'v always been told not to oil a gas piston. I think that a good cleaning inside the gas tube and the piston itself should do it. Also make sure after reassembly that the piston moves freely. point the barrel up and down and you should be able to hear it move inside the tube.

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You shouldnt need any lube in the gas system ,

try checking the size of all the holes compared to

another of the same length (you should be able

to find it on past threads) , nitros are pretty strong

rounds to use , most factory saigas will run fine

wether you cleaned it or not

also look into shortening the gas block, alot

of other short saigas have this done to them which

may or maynot help ,

how short is it ?

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Ah...very very interesting.... I'd say then you need to clean the piston and the "chamber" in there more since there is some sort of buildup in there. I went after my piston with a brass brush and the chamber with a brass bore brush, tried not to use any lube at all, barely any Hoppes 9 to clean it.

 

A trick I was using was taking a old part of cut up t-shirt and wedging it through the whole gas system from where the bolt carrier goes all the way out to the plug, back and forth that way. Made the patch real tight so i was actually using a dowel rod and hammer to get it through.

 

YMMV, no expressed warranty and you'll get what you paid for :lol:

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Ah...very very interesting.... I'd say then you need to clean the piston and the "chamber" in there more since there is some sort of buildup in there. I went after my piston with a brass brush and the chamber with a brass bore brush, tried not to use any lube at all, barely any Hoppes 9 to clean it.

 

A trick I was using was taking a old part of cut up t-shirt and wedging it through the whole gas system from where the bolt carrier goes all the way out to the plug, back and forth that way. Made the patch real tight so i was actually using a dowel rod and hammer to get it through.

 

YMMV, no expressed warranty and you'll get what you paid for :lol:

 

I bet this would work too http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu9_2.htm

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Try a 3M 'Scotch-Brite' pad for cleaning. Use a good solvent like CLP. Look at the piston and tube very carefully for witness marks, dents or galling. Make POSITIVE the piston is not covering any part of the gas holes when the piece is in battery. If the hole(s) IS partially covered, the operating rod piston setting is incorrect, though this would be rare.

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WTF?!

 

::scratches head:: AGP or Factory mag causing the FTE? Still no plastic in the ports? Gas regulator screw all the way in? Anything look screwy on the extractor or bolt face?

 

Just running through ideas out loud....

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WTF?!

 

::scratches head:: AGP or Factory mag causing the FTE? Still no plastic in the ports? Gas regulator screw all the way in? Anything look screwy on the extractor or bolt face?

 

Just running through ideas out loud....

 

I tried different magazines. I had problems except when shooting slugs. I'll double check the ports for plastic but I've never had that problem before... gas regulator was definitely screwed in all the way. I'll take a closer look at the extractor this afternoon. This is mind-boggling since my gun ran 100% until a couple weeks ago.

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I just use a solvent to clean up my gas piston and tube. Just remember that most lubes are hydrocarbons, so when you add intense heat to the tube, the hydrogen reacts away, and the carbon stays.

 

Your mileage may vary, but I keep my AK derivative gas tubes clean and dry as a bone.

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