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Need to open gas ports .


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Looks like I am probably going to have to open the gas ports to compensate for cutting my barrel from 22" to 18".

 

I am tempted to do it myself as shown in this forum but the fellow that did his says there is a chance of splitting at the three port holes. Looks like he tried four or five different hole sizes before proper cycling.

 

Any recommendations for smiths that specialise in this or will most know how to do this?

Edited by Donn
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I opened mine up some more to .110" because light loads would not reliably cycle. I split one of the two hole locations creating a small space between them. I tested it over the weekend and it ran fine even with the light loads. Had it been too much I could have tigged the gap up letting less gas through.

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I opened mine up some more to .110" because light loads would not reliably cycle. I split one of the two hole locations creating a small space between them. I tested it over the weekend and it ran fine even with the light loads. Had it been too much I could have tigged the gap up letting less gas through.

johnnymceldoo:

 

I think I remember you saying that you cut below 18 and then welded up, right? Anybody cut their S12 to 18.25? If yes, what size on the gas ports is needed? And what size bit should be used?

 

Thanks.

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Welding up barrel ports and attempting to re-drill in the same location is never a good idea. Most carbon steel barrels are 4140 steel which is automatically heat treated even if you let it cool in ambient air temps. It is then a bitch to get your drill to cut through even a shallow layer of welded material. The bit will also want to wander toward the soft, untreated area and you will get a diagonal hole cut. This can also lead to the bit binding between the hard and soft areas and breaking your drill bit. If you get the tip of your drill busted off halfway through the gas port, you are seriously screwed.

 

I am not just repeating what I have overheard here.....I have screwed myself many times in this type of operation.

 

Yes, it can be done, but it's something you want to avoid if possible.

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I have not worked with an 18" Saiga, yet. So I don't know first hand, but I saw a previous post where someone opened the port to .097 and it ran but stove piped the last round. In testing the 12" guns, the last round stove pipe problem also occurred when the port was not quite large enough. So I would guess that the port should probably be about .104" or so, provided the preivous poster's info was correct.

 

Again, this is not first hand knowledge and I hate to simply repeat what I have overheard but I have not done an 18" gun yet.

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Why are you guys so fixated on cutting down your barrel? You cut the barrel, and wow it don't work, go figure. :cryss: Well I talked to Tom Cole He said he cut his full auto Saigas to 11 inches and they work with out opening the gas port. I don't know what he did but you might ask him. :rolleyes: I bet if you would thread it for a choke tube while your at it they put an IC or modified choke on it I bet it would be way more effective. :eek:

 

 

http://www.patternmaster.com/chokes.html

 

I believe this will solve the problem Lets just look at from another angle

Edited by topmaul
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Well, my "elephant gun" at least works what about your sawed off little gun? Those fully automatic shotguns From CGW also work with out messing with the gas port. I think your barking up the wrong tree put a choke tube in it to slow down the wadding (trapping gas pressure) long enough to cycle the action. Having an IC choke on your little shotgun will make it at least work and maybe add a little more punch to your pattern.

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Well, my "elephant gun" at least works what about your sawed off little gun? Those fully automatic shotguns From CGW also work with out messing with the gas port.

They work w/full power loads, do they also work w/light loads???

If memory serves then the stock gas port holes measure .70"? (someone correct me if I'm mistaken). Elite opened them up a bit on my 18.5" conversions (don't know how much, they were cut down from 22") and both are 100% w/heavy loads and one (w/the most rds through it) is 100% w/light loads while the other isn't fully reliable w/light loads *yet* (reliability is improving w/use). It would be interesting to compare stock gas port hole sizes between the 22" Saiga-12 and the 19" to see if the Russians felt the need to incorporate a larger gas port size in the shorter version.

Tomac

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I am wondering if some of this short barrel=no cycle business might be brought on by the lack of choke on the barrel after cutting?

 

while dwell time is important, might the loss of any forcing cone also be contributing to the problem?

 

Are the folks with functional shorties all using aftermarket chokes?

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The only reason that I cut my barrel was to be able to shoot slugs. I had originally preferred the 22" barrel since the guys at shotgun world say that it is better for geese & flyin critters but another forum-dont remember which insisted that four extra inches in the barrel really only gives four extra inches of shot

 

I cleaned mine with PB and then lubed it up with lithium grease and the best synthetic 5-30w castro and it is performing a bit better but only with 3" buckshot. The shells are now being ejected but I have to give a little manual push for the next round which may be a sign that it just needs a little more working in. I am still going to have the ports opened up but Iam going to see if adding a choke helps any first.

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