Donn 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 (edited) Looks like I am probably going to have to open the gas ports to compensate for cutting my barrel from 22" to 18". I am tempted to do it myself as shown in this forum but the fellow that did his says there is a chance of splitting at the three port holes. Looks like he tried four or five different hole sizes before proper cycling. Any recommendations for smiths that specialise in this or will most know how to do this? Edited January 20, 2005 by Donn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymceldoo 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 I opened mine up some more to .110" because light loads would not reliably cycle. I split one of the two hole locations creating a small space between them. I tested it over the weekend and it ran fine even with the light loads. Had it been too much I could have tigged the gap up letting less gas through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dodgeturbointerceptor 1 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 cutting barrel to 18" did this? wtf? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doerdie 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Yea, people have had had trouble after cutting down the barrel. I suppose it is something to do with the pressures. Wish I knew more about them...I would search out a a shotgun guru or gunsmith. Hopefully you find a guru here. Check in on http://www.thefiringline.com in the gunsmith section, tons of smart folks there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RDSWriter 5 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 I opened mine up some more to .110" because light loads would not reliably cycle. I split one of the two hole locations creating a small space between them. I tested it over the weekend and it ran fine even with the light loads. Had it been too much I could have tigged the gap up letting less gas through. johnnymceldoo: I think I remember you saying that you cut below 18 and then welded up, right? Anybody cut their S12 to 18.25? If yes, what size on the gas ports is needed? And what size bit should be used? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Welding up barrel ports and attempting to re-drill in the same location is never a good idea. Most carbon steel barrels are 4140 steel which is automatically heat treated even if you let it cool in ambient air temps. It is then a bitch to get your drill to cut through even a shallow layer of welded material. The bit will also want to wander toward the soft, untreated area and you will get a diagonal hole cut. This can also lead to the bit binding between the hard and soft areas and breaking your drill bit. If you get the tip of your drill busted off halfway through the gas port, you are seriously screwed. I am not just repeating what I have overheard here.....I have screwed myself many times in this type of operation. Yes, it can be done, but it's something you want to avoid if possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RDSWriter 5 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Tony, what size drill bit do you recommend for opening the ports up on an 18.25 inch barrel so that it functions with light loads. Also... can you provide any info on my previous request today about removing a magazine release? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 I have not worked with an 18" Saiga, yet. So I don't know first hand, but I saw a previous post where someone opened the port to .097 and it ran but stove piped the last round. In testing the 12" guns, the last round stove pipe problem also occurred when the port was not quite large enough. So I would guess that the port should probably be about .104" or so, provided the preivous poster's info was correct. Again, this is not first hand knowledge and I hate to simply repeat what I have overheard but I have not done an 18" gun yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donn 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Do you think that a 3/32 drill bit will work to get the .104 size hole? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donn 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 What would happen besides spliiting if I open up the prots a bit to much? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swiftvision 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 Whats the stock size? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donn 0 Posted January 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2005 I have an Ar six position callapsable stock on it. Why do you ask? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
USP40 1 Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 Whats the stock size? stock gas hole??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
USP40 1 Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 When you enlarge the holes you mean drill all tree holes right? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Caspian 32 Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 I have an Ar six position callapsable stock on it. Why do you ask? that line is straight out of an Airplane movie. Thanks for the laugh. caspian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donn 0 Posted January 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 Yes I read that all three holes need to be enlarged. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Diggler 0 Posted January 21, 2005 Report Share Posted January 21, 2005 Is there any way that a fourth hole could be drilled while leaving the others alone, to increase the pressure? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
topmaul 42 Posted January 22, 2005 Report Share Posted January 22, 2005 (edited) Why are you guys so fixated on cutting down your barrel? You cut the barrel, and wow it don't work, go figure. Well I talked to Tom Cole He said he cut his full auto Saigas to 11 inches and they work with out opening the gas port. I don't know what he did but you might ask him. I bet if you would thread it for a choke tube while your at it they put an IC or modified choke on it I bet it would be way more effective. http://www.patternmaster.com/chokes.html I believe this will solve the problem Lets just look at from another angle Edited January 22, 2005 by topmaul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swiftvision 0 Posted January 22, 2005 Report Share Posted January 22, 2005 Well because a pistol grip on a 22" shotgun is rediculous and WAY too long.....looks like a damn elephant gun! Yes, WHATS the stock size of the gas holes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
topmaul 42 Posted January 22, 2005 Report Share Posted January 22, 2005 Well, my "elephant gun" at least works what about your sawed off little gun? Those fully automatic shotguns From CGW also work with out messing with the gas port. I think your barking up the wrong tree put a choke tube in it to slow down the wadding (trapping gas pressure) long enough to cycle the action. Having an IC choke on your little shotgun will make it at least work and maybe add a little more punch to your pattern. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tomac 0 Posted January 22, 2005 Report Share Posted January 22, 2005 Well, my "elephant gun" at least works what about your sawed off little gun? Those fully automatic shotguns From CGW also work with out messing with the gas port. They work w/full power loads, do they also work w/light loads??? If memory serves then the stock gas port holes measure .70"? (someone correct me if I'm mistaken). Elite opened them up a bit on my 18.5" conversions (don't know how much, they were cut down from 22") and both are 100% w/heavy loads and one (w/the most rds through it) is 100% w/light loads while the other isn't fully reliable w/light loads *yet* (reliability is improving w/use). It would be interesting to compare stock gas port hole sizes between the 22" Saiga-12 and the 19" to see if the Russians felt the need to incorporate a larger gas port size in the shorter version. Tomac Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stimpsonjcat 0 Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 I am wondering if some of this short barrel=no cycle business might be brought on by the lack of choke on the barrel after cutting? while dwell time is important, might the loss of any forcing cone also be contributing to the problem? Are the folks with functional shorties all using aftermarket chokes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 The Tromix short barreled SAIGA's run fine with super light 1oz target loads as well as 3" magnums, and they do not have chokes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donn 0 Posted January 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 The only reason that I cut my barrel was to be able to shoot slugs. I had originally preferred the 22" barrel since the guys at shotgun world say that it is better for geese & flyin critters but another forum-dont remember which insisted that four extra inches in the barrel really only gives four extra inches of shot I cleaned mine with PB and then lubed it up with lithium grease and the best synthetic 5-30w castro and it is performing a bit better but only with 3" buckshot. The shells are now being ejected but I have to give a little manual push for the next round which may be a sign that it just needs a little more working in. I am still going to have the ports opened up but Iam going to see if adding a choke helps any first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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