Jtp 5 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 (edited) OK, I got the Gasfixer plug, and set it to 1, 2, and 3, and it still will not cycle low brass. I installed it sevderal times, as the onstruction say to,. You can't really mess that up. It shoots high brass shot like 00, 2, and 4 shot shells just fine, but that shit is expensive, and it is supposed to shoot low brass. The Gasfixer made absolutely no difference. So where do I go, or what do I do now????????????? I have a gun that does not work as it should. I did check, and count the vent holes, and there are 3 I get both Fail to feed, and fail to eject. Edited November 11, 2009 by jtp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 what mag are you using Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grand 2 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sunnybean 939 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 What's the round count on this gun? One thing I did to save some $$$ on breaking them in with expensive high brass is to buy one of these springs. Note this spring is not designed to shoot 3"/hotter loads. It has made a big difference in making my guns cycle. The $10 it costs will quickly be made up in savings with cheap Federal #7.5 shells instead of high brass. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volkov 318 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 where are yall finding the reduced springs? My gun cycles pretty well, but 1/10-15 will FTE.. Had thought about tryng a new spring Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigcec1 72 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 well the main recoil spring of you remove the recoil rod and spring assembly the front spring that you remove is basicly a 1911 main spring you can find one at your local gun shop if they have them most places usualy do I run 12# spring in mine for when im shooting skeet usualy but Its not recomended for highbrass/buck/slugs things of that nature or carolina shooters suply usualy carries them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jtp 5 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) what mag are you using The stock 5 round, and surefire 10, and 12. The mag does not seem to matter . The FCG is stock, I am reluctant to spend more money on a weapon that does not work properly. Edited November 12, 2009 by jtp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sunnybean 939 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Telling you, $10 might just do the trick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red Jacket 329 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 OK, I got the Gasfixer plug, and set it to 1, 2, and 3, and it still will not cycle low brass. I installed it sevderal times, as the onstruction say to,. You can't really mess that up. It shoots high brass shot like 00, 2, and 4 shot shells just fine, but that shit is expensive, and it is supposed to shoot low brass. The Gasfixer made absolutely no difference. So where do I go, or what do I do now????????????? I have a gun that does not work as it should. I did check, and count the vent holes, and there are 3 I get both Fail to feed, and fail to eject. Look at your shot weight . It needs to be 1 1/8 oz . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stansplace 414 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) what mag are you using The stock 5 round, and surefire 10, and 12. The mag does not seem to matter . The FCG is stock, I am reluctant to spend more money on a weapon that does not work properly. You will never get it to work right. Why don't you sell it to me for 350 dollars? I will take that POS off your hands. Let me know. Edited November 12, 2009 by Stansplace 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Is your gun still in its original factory configuration, or has it been converted? WS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jtp 5 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) Is your gun still in its original factory configuration, or has it been converted? WS Not converted, all the guts are original. I have not touched the internals. I wanted to make sure It would function properly before I committed to internal mods. It is not, so I will not Edited November 12, 2009 by jtp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 I ask because if the gun is within its warranty period, you can send it to Cadiz Gun Works for factory warranty work. If you have already done the conversion, or the gun is beyond the warranty period, and has not been damaged or altered beyond a typical conversion, I can fix it. I am not yet a business member, so I will not charge you for the work. However, you will need to cover inbound and outbound shipping, and FFL transfer fees. When I am finished, you can toss your gun fixer plug in your spare parts pile, or the trash, or return it for credit. You will never need it. Your gun will cycle practically anything you choose to shoot, including Wally World $20 100 pack ammo. This is a one time offer. My reasons for the offer are twofold. First it is clear that FTF,FTC,FTE problems are poorly understood. There is a great deal of well meaning, but basically ill informed advice. And, I see forum members running in circles attempting to solve the same problems again, and again, and again. Secondly, my manufacturers FFL will be arriving any day now, and I plan to become a business member of the forum. If you are pleased with the work, I want you to tell everyone you know how happy you are with your gun. If you find there is no improvement in function, I want you to feel free to tell other forum members about your experience. Altogether you can expect to pay about $25 each way for shipping, and the FFL transfer fees generally run from $35 to $50 for each transfer. You can search You Tube for videos of my guns under "New Mexico Goldsmith". The holiday season is upon us, so if you choose to take me up on my offer expect to leave your gun with me for up to two weeks. PM me if you want to get rolling on this. With best regards, Waffenschmied Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 I ask because if the gun is within its warranty period, you can send it to Cadiz Gun Works for factory warranty work. If you have already done the conversion, or the gun is beyond the warranty period, and has not been damaged or altered beyond a typical conversion, I can fix it. I am not yet a business member, so I will not charge you for the work. However, you will need to cover inbound and outbound shipping, and FFL transfer fees. When I am finished, you can toss your gun fixer plug in your spare parts pile, or the trash, or return it for credit. You will never need it. Your gun will cycle practically anything you choose to shoot, including Wally World $20 100 pack ammo. This is a one time offer. My reasons for the offer are twofold. First it is clear that FTF,FTC,FTE problems are poorly understood. There is a great deal of well meaning, but basically ill informed advice. And, I see forum members running in circles attempting to solve the same problems again, and again, and again. Secondly, my manufacturers FFL will be arriving any day now, and I plan to become a business member of the forum. If you are pleased with the work, I want you to tell everyone you know how happy you are with your gun. If you find there is no improvement in function, I want you to feel free to tell other forum members about your experience. Altogether you can expect to pay about $25 each way for shipping, and the FFL transfer fees generally run from $35 to $50 for each transfer. You can search You Tube for videos of my guns under "New Mexico Goldsmith". The holiday season is upon us, so if you choose to take me up on my offer expect to leave your gun with me for up to two weeks. PM me if you want to get rolling on this. With best regards, Waffenschmied The following link will take you to the videos: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=NewMexicoGoldsmith&search_type=&aq=f Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stansplace 414 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gtnichols 51 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Take it apart, take the pins out and push off the gas block, port out your gas holes a little bigger and angle them back, then press the block back on and pin it back, and you should be set, but don't make the holes too big or it may end being up over gassed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Take it apart, take the pins out and push off the gas block, port out your gas holes a little bigger and angle them back, then press the block back on and pin it back, and you should be set, but don't make the holes too big or it may end being up over gassed. Good advice. The biggest hurdle is getting the block off and on again. A word of caution. This can be tremendously difficult if you lack the tools and knowledge to do so. Be sure to check the technical section for information about removing the gas block Also I find that adding an additional port for a four port arrangement is ideal. Hole size should be roughly 1.5mm. Perhaps a bit larger. If you do add an additional port, you will probably need to enlarge the aperture between the barrel and gas chamber. If one or more of your ports are partially covered, it is best to do so anyway so that all of the ports are visible. The bevel on the factory gas plug is often useless because the plug ends up covering the ports anyway. The easiest way to remedy this is to bring the bevel back to about the first inside thread, and polish the surface of the bevel. I have found that the gas plug mod I just detailed eliminates the need for aftermarket fixes, and have used it successfully on every one of my builds. On setting two, you will get all the gas you need to drive the piston. Setting one works as before, by cutting off gas, and relying upon the recoil from higher brass shells to drive the bolt carrier back. I do wonder about the notion of overgassing. I have never seen an "overgassed" S12, only undergassed, or poorly gassed S12's. I believe you would have to drill some pretty enormous holes to overgas the S12, and that once the holes became large enough one would reach the point of diminishing returns because pressure would equalize at some point negating any benefit from larger vents, Did you know that Tony Rumore has only one very large port on one of his signature shorties?! I found that fact very interesting. WS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
voonman 133 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Same shit is happening to me..But my saiga use to cycle low brass..until recently..I am currently awaiting My new Gas Puck...To see if that will make a diffrence..I just recently fixed my Pin that fits firing pin bolt..Hopefull that also could be the problemm..Will report back in a few days with results Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Same shit is happening to me..But my saiga use to cycle low brass..until recently..I am currently awaiting My new Gas Puck...To see if that will make a diffrence..I just recently fixed my Pin that fits firing pin bolt..Hopefull that also could be the problemm..Will report back in a few days with results Will look forward to hearing about the puck. WS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jtp 5 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Thanks for the offer, but I will use the warranty system first. I spoke with RAA this morning, they gave me a few things to try, and promised to take care of it if needed Can't ready beat that level of service. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volkov 318 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 warranty is probably a smart move.. especially given that it's really not functioning at all I pulled my gas tube off last night for the first time (pretty easy and I was hammered) and am going to redrill it and hope that works, unfortunately the commies didnt leave me enough room for a 4rth hole the way they spread out my three.. so just gonna widen them all a tiny bit, I must be just on the threshold since it's about a 1/10 FTE for me. And WS, just wanted to say thanks for pointing out you hhadn't heard of an overgassed s12.. you make a good point that got me thinking, and I havn't either, so I'm not too worried. Still gonna be careful with her though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Thanks for the offer, but I will use the warranty system first. I spoke with RAA this morning, they gave me a few things to try, and promised to take care of it if needed Can't ready beat that level of service. Warranty is always the first choice, and the people at RAA couldn't be nicer or more professional. You're in good hands! I'm happy its working out for you. Too often, I have read posts where Saiga owners have converted their guns out of the box, only to discover that they have cycling problems when they finally get around to shooting them. Good luck! WS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grand 2 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jtp 5 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 [ Warranty is always the first choice, and the people at RAA couldn't be nicer or more professional. You're in good hands! I'm happy its working out for you. Too often, I have read posts where Saiga owners have converted their guns out of the box, only to discover that they have cycling problems when they finally get around to shooting them. Good luck! WS I prefer to know what I am starting with works perfect, before I set to work modifying it. I am going to follow what the gent @ RAA told me, I will head over to Knob creek this weekend, and blow about 200 rounds of high brass through it, and then see what I can do with the other 200 rounds of cheap federal, and remington. He did say the cheap Winchester stuff probably would never cycle through it, but Remingtom, and Federal should be fine, if that did not work out, RAA would take care of me. I guess I'll make the supreme sacrifice, and spend some time blowing crap apart with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sure2survive 2 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Looking at the gas fixer plug it seems to me that the only thing its good for is an over gassed gun. Am I wrong about this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 If you don't mind describing what is going on, what leads you to believe that the gun may be overgassed? WS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
setlab 11 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 I was having similar problems with a brand new 2008 marked saiga I bought last week, it wouldn't cycle the cheap winchester stuff. Today I took the internal parts gas plug and all minus the FCG out of my 2001 saiga that I know runs like a champ and put them in the new 2008 saiga, that fixed the problem right away. Maybe its just a break in issue and should be polished a little. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gibbles 23 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Looking at the gas fixer plug it seems to me that the only thing its good for is an over gassed gun. Am I wrong about this? It also has a +setting for an under gassed gun. I would also try backing the gas plug out one full turn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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