mjkeat 0 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 I am wanting to attempt my first Saiga conversion but would like to have a step by step guide specificly for the .308. I have searched around and can only find x39 and .223 how to's. A video would be good but text with detailed pictures would work. Ive had a 16' S308 sitting in the closet for a couple weeks now. Its dark in there and its getting lonely and in need of some attention. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
headshot 52 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 Its basically the same. Refer to the tech section. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thehopping1 105 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 I always thought they where a little different. The triggers or something? I'd love to get an S308 some day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mav 459 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 A standard G2 will not work in a 308, the "hump" on the hammer has to be ground down, or use one that forum business members sell that is modded to work in 308, Dinzags does not exhibit the safety problems that sometimes happen with G2's. Other than that its pretty much the same. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 send me a personal message if you need pics. take the bolt out, the stock off, drill the 2 rivits that hold the clinton plate on, and that will show you the trigger hole when you get it off. thres a spring on the left side that holds the pins that hold the fire controll group in. once you get it off the pins slide right out. you only have to take out the one that holds the trigger in. once you have it out just slide the other one in and put your trigger guard on you can use the same one with a little mod or get a new one.drill the pisol grip nut hole and there ya go. let me know once again if ya need pics. this isnt like any other saiga. its the easiest!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrutalGardener 205 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 (edited) send me a personal message if you need pics. take the bolt out, the stock off, drill the 2 rivits that hold the clinton plate on, and that will show you the trigger hole when you get it off. thres a spring on the left side that holds the pins that hold the fire controll group in. once you get it off the pins slide right out. you only have to take out the one that holds the trigger in. once you have it out just slide the other one in and put your trigger guard on you can use the same one with a little mod or get a new one.drill the pisol grip nut hole and there ya go. let me know once again if ya need pics. this isnt like any other saiga. its the easiest!! I'm going to restore my new S308 soon. I lucked out with a rifle that already has a nut hole. My only real points of concern are the trigger guard and refinishing the bare metal. Got this RAM trigger guard, which apparently requires you to drill another hole in the receiver if you install it on a 308. I've never had to install a trigger guard before (used a Tromix DIY trigger guard for my S12 restoration) and thus, I am not exactly sure what to expect. Going to try the DupliColor 500 Degree Enamel for refinishing. When I used generic Rustoleum on my S12 and it reacted with the generic masking tape, I had to strip and refinish the whole receiver with Duracoat later. It was a pain! LOL. By the way, if your rifle doesn't come with an existing pistol grip nut hole, there are options other than cutting it yourself. First of all, if your intention is to make a "Saiganov", you can buy a Romak PSL wooden thumb-hole stock on gunbroker. That stock doesn't need a pistol grip nut hole to mount! You can also get a Tromix DIY trigger guard for rifles, which includes its own "bolt on" bushing. Though, from my experience, that thing only works well if you use the Tapco "SAW" grip. As far as trigger groups, Tromix modified Tapco G2's come with all the parts you need, are available from several forum sponsors and they drop right in. People also speak highly of the Dinzag modified ones. Edited January 16, 2010 by SpetsnazGRU Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 send me a personal message if you need pics. take the bolt out, the stock off, drill the 2 rivits that hold the clinton plate on, and that will show you the trigger hole when you get it off. thres a spring on the left side that holds the pins that hold the fire controll group in. once you get it off the pins slide right out. you only have to take out the one that holds the trigger in. once you have it out just slide the other one in and put your trigger guard on you can use the same one with a little mod or get a new one.drill the pisol grip nut hole and there ya go. let me know once again if ya need pics. this isnt like any other saiga. its the easiest!! I'm going to restore my new S308 soon. I lucked out with a rifle that already has a nut hole. My only real points of concern are the trigger guard and refinishing the bare metal. Got this RAM trigger guard, which apparently requires you to drill another hole in the receiver if you install it on a 308. I've never had to install a trigger guard before (used a Tromix DIY trigger guard for my S12 restoration) and thus, I am not exactly sure what to expect. Going to try the DupliColor 500 Degree Enamel for refinishing. When I used generic Rustoleum on my S12 and it reacted with the generic masking tape, I had to strip and refinish the whole receiver with Duracoat later. It was a pain! LOL. By the way, if your rifle doesn't come with an existing pistol grip nut hole, there are options other than cutting it yourself. First of all, if your intention is to make a "Saiganov", you can buy a Romak PSL wooden thumb-hole stock on gunbroker. That stock doesn't need a pistol grip nut hole to mount! You can also get a Tromix DIY trigger guard for rifles, which includes its own "bolt on" bushing. Though, from my experience, that thing only works well if you use the Tapco "SAW" grip. As far as trigger groups, Tromix modified Tapco G2's come with all the parts you need, are available from several forum sponsors and they drop right in. People also speak highly of the Dinzag modified ones. yeh i have a psl stock on mine. i used the origional tg. just cut some off the back and squeezed it in a vice and slid it under the mag release and drilled a new hole for the back of it and rivited it on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted January 17, 2010 Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 I AM NOT LIABLE IN FOR YOUR ACTIONS THAT RESULT IN A FUBARED RIFLE IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO READ THE GUIDE COMPLETLY FIRST AND REFER TO OTEHR GUIDES. Buy 308 rifle Take out FCG, safety, and butt stock. Rough Work Remove the rivits holding the trigger plate assembly to the reciver by grinding, filing, or drilling the head off until the rivit can be punced through. After the rivits are removed there are 2 or 3 spot weld under the trigger guard holding the plate assembly on. What I did since I was wanting to reuse the trigger guard was bend the trigger plate up on each side (toward the spot weld) and cut them off as close as i could to the spot welds. Afterwords I filed away that remaining plate that is welded to reciver. If reusing the trigger guard grind away the left over plate that is attached to it. Leave the tabs at the end of the trigger guard so you can attach it to the rifle. Bend the trigger guard the way you want it so it fits on the rifle. Trigger I attached my trigger guard with one pop rivit and a some random machine screw and nut laying around. If you have traditional rivits you can skip the screw and do it that way. You can also weld it, i didn't becase I didn't feel like hooking up argon ...ect I am lazy Drill 2 appropriate sized holes on each tab of the trigger guard. First hole of the trigger guard: The rivit attaches the end of the trigger guard that is proximal to the pistol grip nut. Line it up drill the hole. Set rivit. Second hole. The other tab of the trigger guard, I tucked under the magazine reliease lever housing assebly. Drill hole through reciever inbetween the the release lever and it's housing. Then put screw in release lever housing and secure it with a nut in the reciever. NOTE: Make sure the screw isn't too long where it impedes the hammer and use some loc tite so it doesn't back off. Finishing Paint Reciever Install FCG Notch the safety lever so it fits Install pistol grip and butt stock Picture That is the orgional trigger guard bent to fit. The rivit is covered by the pistol grip. The worst part of this conversion for me was the damn screw I used was too long so I had to keep filing it down until it fit. Another note: The Factory trigger guard maybe too fat for the pistol grip and you will have to file it on the sides. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 17, 2010 Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 I AM NOT LIABLE IN FOR YOUR ACTIONS THAT RESULT IN A FUBARED RIFLE IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO READ THE GUIDE COMPLETLY FIRST AND REFER TO OTEHR GUIDES. Buy 308 rifle Take out FCG, safety, and butt stock. Rough Work Remove the rivits holding the trigger plate assembly to the reciver by grinding, filing, or drilling the head off until the rivit can be punced through. After the rivits are removed there are 2 or 3 spot weld under the trigger guard holding the plate assembly on. What I did since I was wanting to reuse the trigger guard was bend the trigger plate up on each side (toward the spot weld) and cut them off as close as i could to the spot welds. Afterwords I filed away that remaining plate that is welded to reciver. If reusing the trigger guard grind away the left over plate that is attached to it. Leave the tabs at the end of the trigger guard so you can attach it to the rifle. Bend the trigger guard the way you want it so it fits on the rifle. Trigger I attached my trigger guard with one pop rivit and a some random machine screw and nut laying around. If you have traditional rivits you can skip the screw and do it that way. You can also weld it, i didn't becase I didn't feel like hooking up argon ...ect I am lazy Drill 2 appropriate sized holes on each tab of the trigger guard. First hole of the trigger guard: The rivit attaches the end of the trigger guard that is proximal to the pistol grip nut. Line it up drill the hole. Set rivit. Second hole. The other tab of the trigger guard, I tucked under the magazine reliease lever housing assebly. Drill hole through reciever inbetween the the release lever and it's housing. Then put screw in release lever housing and secure it with a nut in the reciever. NOTE: Make sure the screw isn't too long where it impedes the hammer and use some loc tite so it doesn't back off. Finishing Paint Reciever Install FCG Notch the safety lever so it fits Install pistol grip and butt stock Picture That is the orgional trigger guard bent to fit. The rivit is covered by the pistol grip. The worst part of this conversion for me was the damn screw I used was too long so I had to keep filing it down until it fit. Another note: The Factory trigger guard maybe too fat for the pistol grip and you will have to file it on the sides. this is exactly how i did mine exept i only used one rivit. the mag release held the front in place. i made my tg look a little more square looking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mjkeat 0 Posted January 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Thanks to all of you. I will place my order for a Dinzig FCG and strt the conversion as soon as it arrives. Ill probably get in touch with you, Browneye, for some pictures when I get started. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 17, 2010 Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Thanks to all of you. I will place my order for a Dinzig FCG and strt the conversion as soon as it arrives. Ill probably get in touch with you, Browneye, for some pictures when I get started. no problem i'll be glad to help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cruddymutt 1 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Coal_forge how sturdy is your scope with both rings further back like that? Im having a eye relief issue with my scope mount, scope, and PSL stock. Cant go any further foward with my scope on the rail. Browneye, have you shot your saigunov yet? Took mine out today for the first time and got a sweet scope kiss. Your scope is pretty far back, wondering if youll have the same issue I did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 I haven't really gotten a good test on it yet. on have 40rds at the most through the gun and most were sighting it in, which sucked because I didn't tighten the scope rings as tight as they needed to be when doing it. It should be pretty sturdy. The only problem I could imagine from having my scope mounted like that is vibrations would amplified as they reach the distal tip of the frontal section of the scope. Have you ever considered using a beryl style mount? Most seem to have more rail than the side mounts. If any one uses my directions needs any help or gets stumped on any part let me know by PM I usually check it a few times a day or see if i am in the chat around 2300-0100 eastern time. I would do pics and stuff but I do not have a rifle to convert for that reason... donations are welcome . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 I haven't really gotten a good test on it yet. on have 40rds at the most through the gun and most were sighting it in, which sucked because I didn't tighten the scope rings as tight as they needed to be when doing it. It should be pretty sturdy. The only problem I could imagine from having my scope mounted like that is vibrations would amplified as they reach the distal tip of the frontal section of the scope. Have you ever considered using a beryl style mount? Most seem to have more rail than the side mounts. A Cheek rest may cure the problem too, I need one for mine or maybe a chin implant. If any one uses my directions needs any help or gets stumped on any part let me know by PM I usually check it a few times a day or see if i am in the chat around 2300-0100 eastern time. I would do pics and stuff but I do not have a rifle to convert for that reason... donations are welcome . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Coal_forge how sturdy is your scope with both rings further back like that? Im having a eye relief issue with my scope mount, scope, and PSL stock. Cant go any further foward with my scope on the rail. Browneye, have you shot your saigunov yet? Took mine out today for the first time and got a sweet scope kiss. Your scope is pretty far back, wondering if youll have the same issue I did. i havent shot it with the psl stock on it yet but i did with a short k-var stock and first i got hit in the head with my scope. dont really like my scope mount for the psl stock gonna take it back and get this one.http://www.keepshooting.com/firearmaccessories/add-ons/saigascope.htm its more of a dragunov mount but for saigas. i am still waiting on the hardware to come in for my stock. dont really want to shoot it with that bare wood cause my buddys reloads are kinda hot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 opps I ment to hit edit... I dunno about that scope mount looks rather high I had a high scope mount like that before and I hated it i had no cheek weld what so ever. I am using http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-264/AK-Saiga-mount-low/Detail it sits off center too the right... which is good for me since I shoot south paw. They also have http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-313/Saiga-Ak47-Russian-Scope/Detail which is the factory saiga one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 opps I ment to hit edit... I dunno about that scope mount looks rather high I had a high scope mount like that before and I hated it i had no cheek weld what so ever. I am using http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-264/AK-Saiga-mount-low/Detail it sits off center too the right... which is good for me since I shoot south paw. They also have http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-313/Saiga-Ak47-Russian-Scope/Detail which is the factory saiga one. its not that the mount is high, its a 24x scope had to get bigger rings or it wouldnt go on thats why i am gonna get a mount that sits it on the side. mine is like for red dot and a flashlight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cruddymutt 1 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 I have the UTG mount and it fits real well. Not too high and I get a nice cheek to stock weld. Its just the rail on the mount isnt long enough for me to move the scope more foward. I found a dual cantilever ring set on ebay that looks like it will help alot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Browneye... I hate to rain on your parade, however that is not a PSL stock... it is a dragunov STYLE made for the WASR10. With that in mind... Let me ask you this... how does that WASR drag style stock fit your hand?? I used one on my first conversion with a 410 and found it to be a bit blocky and thick for my taste... Honestly, I HATED the ergonomics of it... I ended up switching to the Chinese style thumbholes with the thinner PG sections... MUCH more pleasant to hold... I have three of those damn drag style stocks just like that now, here and there... I think they are just about worthless... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Browneye... I hate to rain on your parade, however that is not a PSL stock... it is a dragunov STYLE made for the WASR10. With that in mind... Let me ask you this... how does that WASR drag style stock fit your hand?? I used one on my first conversion with a 410 and found it to be a bit blocky and thick for my taste... Honestly, I HATED the ergonomics of it... I ended up switching to the Chinese style thumbholes with the thinner PG sections... MUCH more pleasant to hold... I have three of those damn drag style stocks just like that now, here and there... I think they are just about worthless... i have 3 of them as well got them for free. i love it it fits me comfortably. the only problem i have is that the stock is skinnier than my reciever so the reciever kinda rubs my hand. gonna add some wood filler to it to kinda make it better. its just thinner by a hair. i thaught they were different than a psl cause they didnt have the lip that went up on the reciever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cruddymutt 1 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 I guess that what I have also. I find the PG to be alittle on the thick side and the overall length is a little short for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 i think ima extend mine a little with a buttpad or have ironwood make me one that is longer and more dragunov lookin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 I have nothing against them... if they work for you USE EM... I just found them to not be suited to my particular build... I DO however like the LOOKS of them... I thought about dremeling the handguard down a lot and then re-varnishing... That may be an option for others as well... (The true PSL stock would have a semi-circular cut out where it would meet the receiver to match the PSL's receiver... ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThirtyAughtSix 101 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 While we are on the topic of converting an S308... I just ordered a bunch of parts from CSS to convert mine but I'm not sure of something. I ordered THIS Tromix modified G2 FCG that said it would work on all Saiga's, is that right or am I going to need to use the grinding wheel on this? Just wondering, I have access to a shop, but only when the boss is gone, he doesn't like me bringing anything gun related to work (ex cop). From the description it sounds like I'm good and I know Greg knows his stuff but I could see how somebody could overlook one of the Saiga's with the whole "works with all Saiga's" thing. I probably don't have a problem but I'm just wondering, and drinking, and want all the parts as fast as possible so I can get to it!! One more question, I ordered the DPH internal receiver block seeing as I have the DPH stock with the adapter already... What holds that in, the one screw under the spring? I didn't want to go with the Tromix weld in one because, well, I'm not a good welder and the head mechanic would bitch slap me if I asked him to weld something to my AK... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 it looks like a good deal i think most fcgs are in the same price range. just make sure you use all american parts and dont try to mix the russian parts with the american parts cause its a pain in the ass(i know from experience) the only thing american in my 308 is the accual trigger itself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrutalGardener 205 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) While we are on the topic of converting an S308... I just ordered a bunch of parts from CSS to convert mine but I'm not sure of something. I ordered THIS Tromix modified G2 FCG that said it would work on all Saiga's, is that right or am I going to need to use the grinding wheel on this? Just wondering, I have access to a shop, but only when the boss is gone, he doesn't like me bringing anything gun related to work (ex cop). From the description it sounds like I'm good and I know Greg knows his stuff but I could see how somebody could overlook one of the Saiga's with the whole "works with all Saiga's" thing. I probably don't have a problem but I'm just wondering, and drinking, and want all the parts as fast as possible so I can get to it!! One more question, I ordered the DPH internal receiver block seeing as I have the DPH stock with the adapter already... What holds that in, the one screw under the spring? I didn't want to go with the Tromix weld in one because, well, I'm not a good welder and the head mechanic would bitch slap me if I asked him to weld something to my AK... I just finished my conversion and the Tromix FCG dropped right in. Edited January 21, 2010 by SpetsnazGRU Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrutalGardener 205 Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 While we are on the topic of converting an S308... I just ordered a bunch of parts from CSS to convert mine but I'm not sure of something. I ordered THIS Tromix modified G2 FCG that said it would work on all Saiga's, is that right or am I going to need to use the grinding wheel on this? Just wondering, I have access to a shop, but only when the boss is gone, he doesn't like me bringing anything gun related to work (ex cop). From the description it sounds like I'm good and I know Greg knows his stuff but I could see how somebody could overlook one of the Saiga's with the whole "works with all Saiga's" thing. I probably don't have a problem but I'm just wondering, and drinking, and want all the parts as fast as possible so I can get to it!! One more question, I ordered the DPH internal receiver block seeing as I have the DPH stock with the adapter already... What holds that in, the one screw under the spring? I didn't want to go with the Tromix weld in one because, well, I'm not a good welder and the head mechanic would bitch slap me if I asked him to weld something to my AK... I just finished my conversion and the Tromix FCG dropped right in. I take that back! After assembling everything, I noticed that the safety wasn't working. The safety wasn't tall enough to engage the trigger. Apparently, the 308 safety lever is shorter than the other AK/Saiga ones. Luckily, I had an East German AK safety lever sitting at home. I put that in and it worked. Another potential issue with this FCG in 308 is that the trigger kind of moves from side to side a little. I don't really know whether this presents a problem or not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
padenbrown 2 Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 Thanks to all of you. I will place my order for a Dinzig FCG and strt the conversion as soon as it arrives. Ill probably get in touch with you, Browneye, for some pictures when I get started. this forum was just put up by a guy on this same forum didnt know if you seen it. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=49531 hes got some pics on there and stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mjkeat 0 Posted January 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 Thank you Browneye Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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