Ak_Rider 1 Posted April 8, 2010 Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 By removing the finishing coat via polishing, will that exposed part be more prone to rust? And if not, why not polish all metal parts that rub against each other? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bean.223 365 Posted April 8, 2010 Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 If you live in a humid/moist location, then yes it'll be much more prone to rust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shandlanos 1,470 Posted April 8, 2010 Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 The finish is there to provide corrosion resistance. Bare metal = less corrosion resistance. Keep it clean, dry and oiled. If you're in a humid environment, a dehumidifier in your house/vault/safe isn't a bad idea for preserving your weapons, whether or not their moving parts have had the finish removed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Or shoot it alot. A rolling stone gathers no moss and a cycling gun gathers no rust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TYBOY 33 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 By removing the finishing coat via polishing, will that exposed part be more prone to rust? And if not, why not polish all metal parts that rub against each other? Rider, If you are going to be storing a gun for any length of time and don't want to worry about re-oiling those bare metal areas try this.... There are corrosion preventative compounds that you can spray on and they harden. They are less prone to just waste away like a WD-40 or some other quick spray. I would use something equivelent to LPS-3. You should be able to find a CPC that will provide a drying film to protect that bare metal at a hardware store for more of a longterm storage protection. Just spray the film off with a brake cleaner and lube with something like Break-Free prior to shooting. TYBOY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wade Pruetz 103 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 By removing the finishing coat via polishing, will that exposed part be more prone to rust? And if not, why not polish all metal parts that rub against each other? Rider, If you are going to be storing a gun for any length of time and don't want to worry about re-oiling those bare metal areas try this.... There are corrosion preventative compounds that you can spray on and they harden. They are less prone to just waste away like a WD-40 or some other quick spray. I would use something equivelent to LPS-3. You should be able to find a CPC that will provide a drying film to protect that bare metal at a hardware store for more of a longterm storage protection. Just spray the film off with a brake cleaner and lube with something like Break-Free prior to shooting. TYBOY Be careful with brake cleaner, I watched my buddy use the so called safe non-chlorinated brake cleaner on his brand new 5.45 Arsenal. We both sat there in horror as the finish came right off certain parts, granted the finish on the Russian parts held up fine, but everything American made and installed by Arsenal was bare metal. Dosen't say much for QC in America! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Well, shit, why the hell were you using brake cleaner on a new weapon?! Even Hoppes #9 can take the factory finish off certain parts of a Saiga, so yeah, brake cleaner is right out! After learning the hard way, I now use Break-Free CLP on my S-12 and SGL21. It works very well and doesn't harm the finish in the least. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 (edited) By removing the finishing coat via polishing, will that exposed part be more prone to rust? And if not, why not polish all metal parts that rub against each other? The highest quality builds DO have all the friction bearing surfaces polished. ETA, I live in a very moist enviornment & have had all coatings off..... The only the barrel, tube & gas block ever had any rust start & I shot it in the rain like this more than a few times... But boy did they want to rust if not oiled. My Hammer, rails & carrier have been bare for more than 6 months & no rust has formed. Weird, but true. Edited April 9, 2010 by Paulyski Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skiboatsp 111 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 By removing the finishing coat via polishing, will that exposed part be more prone to rust? And if not, why not polish all metal parts that rub against each other? Rider, If you are going to be storing a gun for any length of time and don't want to worry about re-oiling those bare metal areas try this.... There are corrosion preventative compounds that you can spray on and they harden. They are less prone to just waste away like a WD-40 or some other quick spray. I would use something equivelent to LPS-3. You should be able to find a CPC that will provide a drying film to protect that bare metal at a hardware store for more of a longterm storage protection. Just spray the film off with a brake cleaner and lube with something like Break-Free prior to shooting. TYBOY Be careful with brake cleaner, I watched my buddy use the so called safe non-chlorinated brake cleaner on his brand new 5.45 Arsenal. We both sat there in horror as the finish came right off certain parts, granted the finish on the Russian parts held up fine, but everything American made and installed by Arsenal was bare metal. Dosen't say much for QC in America! WD-40 is clorinated also I never use it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TYBOY 33 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 I don't use WD-40 either on anything. I use the Break free as a Lube for my weapons. I do use brake cleaner to spray out my FCG and reciever after I do little filings here and there. I suggested the brake cleaner to remove the CPC film that hardens on the FCG and bare metal areas, I'm not sure if the Break Free or Break free powder blast can break down that type of CPC film. TYBOY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 I use Militech-1. It conditions the metal to end up being self lubricating so to speak. They sent me a box of it for free to distribute to my team last time I was in Afghanistan. It works on anything from M-4s to beltfeds. Or like stated above, shoot it often. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ak_Rider 1 Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Thanks guys. And now I know. And knowing is half the battle! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elia.jon1 1 Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 i think it has something to do with the finish having more surface area for rust to grab compared to the smooth metal and yeah remove your stuff and you will get rust...remember thats why your guns have you, to keep the rust off of them..... some some parts are more prone than others....my damn ar saftey turns "orange" quickly....but it wipes right off my buddy has an ar with a orange tint he doesn't see it but i do... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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