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looking to pick up a chain saw for removing some dead box elder trees (probably 2ft wide) on my land, not looking to get the most expensive saw, but also don't want to get a POS.

 

any advice on saws?

 

i have been looking at Stihl brand but don't really know what to be looking for..

 

thanks in advance,

 

Sharkbit

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Husqvarna , Echo , Stihl Ive got an Echo and a husqvarna and I have used a stihl a good bit all good saws I have a Husqvarna 455 and I have cut up some pretty big trees with it and have not had any problems with it its about 3 years old by now same with the Echo Cs-680 both realy good saws

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Stihl and Husquavarna are probably the top two. Echo and Shindowa aren't bad either from what I have heard.

Most guys usually buy a saw with a bar that is way too short. You're going to get tired fast if you're bending over for every cut in order to get the tip of the bar to reach the ground. Even with a heavier saw, if the bar is long, you can just rest the power head on your thigh and rotate the bar down to make a cut. The longer bar also allows you to reach in further when you're limbing the downed tree. With a short bar, you have to climb into the crap to make a cut. The longer more powerful saws also cut faster and allow you to up-cut larger pieces, so you don't work as long/hard to get the job done. 24" bar is a minimum. Also, keep a small screwdriver with you when you're working so you can re-tune the saw as the day warms up. You don't want the saw running too lean (screaming) or it drops off the torque. You want the thing to burn as much fuel as possible but still be responsive. The high speed screw is a fuel screw, not air, so when you back it out, it richens the mixure. Hold the saw wide open and turn it inward until the saw screams, then back it out until you hear a very, very slight studder. That's where you want it.

 

I used to own a firewood business many years ago and have cut hundreds of cords of wood. However, if you're just cutting up a few branches, it doesn't matter what you are using as long you can get it started.

 

Tony Rumore

Tromix

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Stihl or Husqvarna you cant go wrong.

 

Those two are the best. I bought a Husqvarna about 7 years ago and it's been great. No troubles, always starts right up, plenty of power, and light enough that it doesn't make my arms longer! :D

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I have one of the little 14" buggers I bought about 10-12 years ago and it's still running fine, just used it again yesterday. It's a Poulan (made by Husquavarna I read some place) Wood Shark 1950 that I got for $75 brand new. It was on sale at Walmart, but Menards did a price match +10% off deal so I was happy with that. I think it's around $99 at Walmart right now.

 

There are a few times I wished I had a little bigger saw, maybe a 16" or 18". The one I have is fine for my use around the yard though. I think it would handle the trees you are talking about, no doubt a larger saw would be easier and faster.

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I've got a 16-18" Poulon Wild Thing. Used it to cut up some three foot across trees out back that were downed by Huricane Ike comeing though OH. Had it about 5-7 years now and not a hicup. Would gladely get one again if needed. That said. If you can afford it. Go with either of the two mentioned above. Used Stihls downing trees/clearing trails and firebreaks for the Forest Service out west 15yrs ago. They'll eat most anything with a little care.

 

BE CAREFUL.

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any advice on saws?

 

 

 

Well, since nobody else mentioned it, I will!! Keep all body parts away from the spinny chain thingy :haha:

 

On a serious note, the best choices have already been mentioned. You can't go wrong with any of them.

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Don't want to sound like an echo (or use one...aw man ...lol) but if you want a saw that will last you for a long long time, get a Stihl. Husqvarna is a good one too, I've got both here. I'm really partial to the Stihl though. I bought my 044 back in 1996 when Hurricane Fran ripped through here and downed several 100+ year old oaks in my yard. Dropped one of em about ten feet from our bedroom. I've had to do almost no maintenance to it since then and it always starts...every time. I have bars and chains from 18 & 20, up to 36 inch for it, depending on the job. A 20" will get you through about anything you need really, and like Tony said, it's easy to get in there limbing and stuff with it, but you can also cut through a three foot thick trunk no prob with a sharp chain and a good bar. A good saw will also have an automatic chain brake in the form of a guard that runs in front of where you hold it on top. This is good if the saw kicks back, like it will sometimes. There are a lot of tricks of the trade using a chainsaw. It's a good idea to read up on them some if you are going to be doing some heavy work, especially if the trees are anything but laying down flat on the ground. Trees (and limbs) do some funky shit when you are cutting them. Be careful....yeah I know, duh right?

 

Oh here's one tip that will save you a lot of trouble. If you are gonna cut down any standing timber, first read up on how to fell them correctly and safely, but remember once you have a stump left to get rid of, don't try to cut it off too low to the ground or you will ruin your chain for the day. Took me a few to learn that lesson. The tree picks up minerals and dirt as it grows. The bottom part of the stump will be a lot harder in some trees, and will dull your chain on one side more than the other even. Once that happens you will be doing nothing but cutting smiley faces and bananas. It chews away a curved slot as you go through the tree. It'll bind and won't cut worth a shit like that. Watch your sawdust...if it starts looking more like powder than nice thick chips and curls, the chain's too dull and you are working way too hard.

Also flip the bar over every few times you sharpen the chain so it wears evenly.

 

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Can't go wrong with a Stihl or Husky, I have a Stihl MS 310 that I put a 20" bar on. It has plenty of power for my usage of cutting firewood and tree removal on land.

 

Whatever saw you end up going with, buy a pair of chaps. Unless your legs arn't worth $50 a piece to you. Nobody plans on cutting themselves but you don't have to be one of the guys that buys the chaps after the fact. On a medium size powerhead the chain can move at 80 mph, just inches from you. Also remember that the chain is designed to cut wood which is much harder than your flesh.

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I'd just like to mention that with most power equipment it is good to use fuel without ethanol in it. Most marinas have it for a dime more a gallon. Maybe your lucky enough to be able to buy straight gasoline at a gas station.

 

Poulans are ok but the low end ones tend to cut slow. A larger saw will tend to last longer, and if you need them often its best to spend the extra money.

 

And yeah be careful, and NEVER let anyone near you. Instruct everyone that they are to come no closer then 20 feet. If they need to talk to you, they need to wave until they get your attention (from 20 feet away). I'd rather hurt myself then hurt a family member.

(obviously this is only when running the chainsaw, figured I'd mention that before one of you sarcastic people comment about my social skills)

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Another plug for Stihl, I've got an MS 391 that has been very reliable for thinning out the Ponderosa population on my parents' 10 acre plot. Although, it scares the living hell out of me, more than any other piece of equipment I own. Be careful, and use your head.

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