Paulyski 2,227 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 How exactly is it coming off, even with red Loctite on it? The screw is backing out, even with the Loctite on it? Or the screw is still Loctited in place, but the whole unit is wiggling off? I don't know, in my latter case I never found the damned thing to inspect it.Before that, yeah, blue Loctite didn't hold, the screw loosened, and I was bending the Allen when tightening it down. How exactly is it coming off, even with red Loctite on it? The screw is backing out, even with the Loctite on it? Or the screw is still Loctited in place, but the whole unit is wiggling off? From what I gather, people may not be making sure the set-screw is in the lowest point of the concave area of the front of the charging handle, then if it moves at all & the set screw is at a lower point, there's no pressure on the set screw, so it can work loose & fly off. Who knows, maybe they're simply pushing it on as far in as it can go & reefing on it, but just a slight movement to the outside will make it loose. I wonder.... What type of steel is the Tromix bolt on charging handle made out of? Interesting. I haven't handle one of these things yet, so I was at a loss as to how it was coming loose with red Loctite. I used red Loctite on my DIY, and that sucker ain't moving. (Of course, it's not a moving part like a CH) I tried my damndest to get it off, when I thought I had screwed the PG threads on the DIT, and it didn't budge at all. I would install it, see that I liked it, then weld it on with a couple of spot welds personally. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYRO 44 Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 If you weld it on, IMO as a welder/fabricator/machinist, tack weld it on using a MIG machine with wire for high carbon steel (not flux core). MIG, at a low setting, will induce less heat into the surrounding material and lessen the chance of weakening it by annealing. I would concentrate most of the tack weld into the new part, barely touching the weld to the factory handle to hold it in place, You don't want to anneal the factory handle or the weight of the new part could snap it off over time, plus, you may want to remove it someday (damaged bolt carriers are hard to replace). This is how I did mine and it held tight,,,,,,until I cut the factory handle off and moved it to the left side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tire iron 13 Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 I am in need of two of the bolt on Tromix Charging Handles - and would love to buy one from someone that no longer needs theirs. I have no problem buying new - but might as well buy one from someone that doesn't want theirs. PM if you want to sell yours. cheers tire iron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 i made a handle just like corbins and used cheap $5 epoxy and it has never given me any problems, and even if you do lose it they only cost like 50 cents Quote Link to post Share on other sites
epbullen 21 Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 It sounds like we need to start including installation instructions with the handles. 1. Run the set screw completely through the handle, until it drops out into the center bore. That will ensure that screw is not stopping on any foreign debris left over from sand blasting. 2. Clean and degrease both the threads in the handle and the set screw with contact cleaner and allow to dry completely. 3. Apply red #262 Loctite to BOTH the set screw and the threads in the charging handle. 4. Slide the Tromix handle over the OEM handle and start the set screw. Slowly turn the set screw inward as you wiggle the handle in order to allow the set screw to find the "sweet spot" in the saddle of the OEM handle. 5. Using a large 4.5" long allen wrench, hoss that screw down until you think it's about to break. It won't. Tony Rumore Tromix I think doing #4 is going to fix the issues mine had with wiggling loose. I was definitely jamming it on on there as far as it would go, then tightening. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 Gentlemen, this is key: the setscrew has to land on the very bottom of the handle's curve. If it's not in the lowest point, your handle will come off. If it is (and you used red loctite) it won't. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saigafan2 3 Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 (edited) I had both of mine come loose no matter what I did or used so I just used Loctite epoxy and no movement what so ever since. Edited December 15, 2010 by gunnut34 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardC1967 81 Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 Super Glued mine and it hasn't budged since Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kila_hill 0 Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 How exactly is it coming off, even with red Loctite on it? The screw is backing out, even with the Loctite on it? Or the screw is still Loctited in place, but the whole unit is wiggling off? I don't know, in my latter case I never found the damned thing to inspect it.Before that, yeah, blue Loctite didn't hold, the screw loosened, and I was bending the Allen when tightening it down. How exactly is it coming off, even with red Loctite on it? The screw is backing out, even with the Loctite on it? Or the screw is still Loctited in place, but the whole unit is wiggling off? From what I gather, people may not be making sure the set-screw is in the lowest point of the concave area of the front of the charging handle, then if it moves at all & the set screw is at a lower point, there's no pressure on the set screw, so it can work loose & fly off. Who knows, maybe they're simply pushing it on as far in as it can go & reefing on it, but just a slight movement to the outside will make it loose. I wonder.... What type of steel is the Tromix bolt on charging handle made out of? The handle is made of 4140 chromemoly steel. Good, tough alloy. Interesting. I haven't handle one of these things yet, so I was at a loss as to how it was coming loose with red Loctite. I used red Loctite on my DIY, and that sucker ain't moving. (Of course, it's not a moving part like a CH) I tried my damndest to get it off, when I thought I had screwed the PG threads on the DIT, and it didn't budge at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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