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Gas Block lever won't go down


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It was very hard to move the lever in the first place. My friend was able to eventually move the lever to take the gas block out but the lever will not go back down. I put the the gas block back in place and the lever will not budge either. I put WD40 on it pushed and pried in every which way and am still unable to get it to move. Any ideas?

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WD40 won't lubricate tight fitting things.

 

Grab some 3-in-1 or something better. Mine is extremely stiff as well, I use a plastic hammer to get it back in place. It takes beating on it to even move it without the gas tube in place, on mine!

 

Yea, it'll scratch up the finish. Always have some cold blue touchup laying around when doing anything with these guns.

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My 5.45 also has a sticky gas tube lever that needs to be banged open and closed with a wood block and a hammer. A little bearing grease helped things, but not much.

 

Definitely make sure the gas tube is seated properly before banging on the lever to get it to close again. The same gun has a stubborn gas tube that doesn't allow the lever clearance unless I push down on it hard--it locks into the sight tower with a loud "click". Then I can bang it closed.

 

My other Saigas are fine, I guess they just used too much pressure when they peened the opposite side into the sight tower on our particular guns. Don't feel bad banging on the gun, it's still an AK.

Edited by rob-cubed
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My 5.45 also has a sticky gas tube lever that needs to be banged open and closed with a wood block and a hammer. A little bearing grease helped things, but not much.

 

Definitely make sure the gas tube is seated properly before banging on the lever to get it to close again. The same gun has a stubborn gas tube that doesn't allow the lever clearance unless I push down on it hard--it locks into the sight tower with a loud "click". Then I can bang it closed.

 

My other Saigas are fine, I guess they just used too much pressure when they peened the opposite side into the sight tower on our particular guns. Don't feel bad banging on the gun, it's still an AK.

+1. Make sure the tube is properly aligned with the lever, and a little elbow grease may be needed.

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I have the same thing going on with my gas tube. Most of the time, I just have to give it a little wiggle forward or back to get the tab on the bottom of the tube to move into place. After that, I use the slot in the cleaning tube that fits that lever, and give it a little press. It still scratches up the finish, but it didn't leave my lever at an odd angle with the gas tube still loose like my rubber peen did. As with prior advice, ditch the WD40 and get some good penetrating oil. You'll be glad you did.

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You guys know about using the cleaning kit tube/container to get leverage on the lever, right? There are slits in it that you can stick the lever in. The cap also has a hole in it for the cleaning rod to go through to act as a muzzle cap/crown protector while cleaning. Everything has a purpose with these weapons.

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  • 1 month later...

You guys know about using the cleaning kit tube/container to get leverage on the lever, right? There are slits in it that you can stick the lever in. The cap also has a hole in it for the cleaning rod to go through to act as a muzzle cap/crown protector while cleaning. Everything has a purpose with these weapons.

 

So you're talking about the actual tube? Not something in the tube?

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You guys know about using the cleaning kit tube/container to get leverage on the lever, right? There are slits in it that you can stick the lever in. The cap also has a hole in it for the cleaning rod to go through to act as a muzzle cap/crown protector while cleaning. Everything has a purpose with these weapons.

 

So you're talking about the actual tube? Not something in the tube?

 

 

In the actual cleaning kit tube, there is a slot cut for the gas tube release lever to fit in. It gives you plenty of lev erage to move the lever. I beleive that it is at the end opposite the opening.

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Use the slot in the cleaning kit , but DO NOT use brute force! Wiggle and shake everything. The first few times it is damn tight and no matter how close you think the parts are they are not QUITE aligned.

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the cleaning kit slot is a great pointer. you may also need to use a bronze hammer like I do. I have a bar of bronze and a bronze hammer that I found at a garage sale. It takes the beating instead of your weapon. Two or three love taps and it will break free. Once it's open, use a really good penetrating oil to clean the heck out of it. You may notice rust bleeding out of it and the receiver may have even been painted together with the lever.

 

Use and lube it often and eventually you can do it with only the cleaning kit or even by hand.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I eventually had to resort to filing the latch down cause it would not clear even after the block clicked in... It fits well now and the latch is finally movable albeit stiff but movable. The paint has been rubbed off in spots and the metal is kind of pitted from all the prying etc. so now I've got the itch to paint the thing. And the slit in the cleaning kit worked to pry on the latch. Thanks for the help.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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