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Lighter Extractor Spring


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I know that Cobra and Pauly tune the factury spring, I would PM them and see what they can do.

No I do not.

 

I switched to my own springs in Pauly's GlassBolt Reliability System for better consistency & longer term durability than a tuned factory spring about 4-5 months ago.

I include the factory spring when I return the customer's parts.

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I know that Cobra and Pauly tune the factury spring, I would PM them and see what they can do.

No I do not.

 

I switched to my own springs in Pauly's GlassBolt Reliability System for better consistency & longer term durability than a tuned factory spring about 4-5 months ago.

I include the factory spring when I return the customer's parts.

 

Pauly, would you sell the extractor spring by itself? This is my first S12 and I gutted it and modded everything myself. I'm learning as I go and I would like to tune the extractor next. Cobra's recommendation sounds great and I'm going to buy a disconnector spring but i'd also like to try out your spring.

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  • 1 year later...

Pretty sure S12 extractor springs are the same as an AK extractor spring. Hope so. It's what I bought as a spare. Maybe someone will educate us...

 

I have heard of extractor spring holes not being deep cut enough in the bolt head. Not sure what the specs are for that.

 

Thanks for the idea of a disco spring, Cobra!

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Since this necroism is going on I should add that anyone using a disco spring should not put it in there whole, it's too long. Compare to the size of your original.

 

Austen PM me I have what you need.

 

I will also take this opportunity to add that we send all our customers their original extractor springs back with their finished parts and are currently taking new orders with no wait time. Turn around is around two weeks. Let us know by PM if you need any more details. Racegal20 or I will answer promptly.

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It isn't hard to start a new post.

The diff is things that were true in 2011 are no longer current info. So if I hadn't seen the thread by chance and corrected it everyone would think I'm modding factory springs, instead of replacing them with new springs and returning the originals. I'm glad I saw it.

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Reading info here... Got the AK disconnect spring....Didn't seem to need any cutting ..... Haven't tested live so far. Trying to keep the FPS under 1300 with all rounds (7 1/2, 00 Buck and low recoil slugs). Gun has all the mods & mag well (competition gun only). From day one, I always thought the extractor tension was way too much, time will tell?...

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The extractor just needs to hold the shell lightly.... it will hit the ejector upon firing and retracting...Check your bolt, the gun will not lock up easily (that last 1/8th"). I'm trying to eliminate ANY resistance to full lock up.....For instance, 1911 Colt's and their variants don't want too much extractor tension or they won't feed correctly, don't confuse the extractor's job with the ejector's job..... Remember these are basically AK battle rifles, meant to function with Mil spec ammo... I'm just trying to get 100% function with light loads in shotgun competition.

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>>I'm trying to eliminate ANY resistance to full lock up.....

 

IMHO, no reason to do that on the S-12.

I don't think tweaking the extractor will do anything for reliability on low brass.

 

Do as you like of course, I have no problems at all with reliability on my stock extractor.

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On a gun with no problems cycling no it doesn't help that much. But on a borderline undergassed gun, everything you can do to lessen the friction encountered by the bolt & carrier does help a lot. I've been running an extremely light extractor spring in my personal favorite S-12 (in my avatar) for at least 3-4 years now with no problems what so ever. It is literally from a ball point pen just to experiment and be a ble to discount with full certainty ANYONE who says installing a slightly lighter spring will be bad. I would never use anything that light in a customer's bolt but just wanted to know for myself how mine would do with a super light spring. Mine is a 2000 model K-USA / EAA import that came with the properly drilled 4 ports and I never had one issue with cycling low brass. So it runs like greased lightning on anything after my bolt and carrier, & FCG mods. It also has absolutely zero resistance upon lockup. You can't make it hang up even if you try. I like it that way and it works for me. Because of a seriously disabled shoulder I now shoot mostly light loads, but it does also cycle high brass.

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