Photoguy 202 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Okay, I was cruising along on my first conversion, when I hit the part where I had to repaint the bare spot left by the original trigger guard plate. This allowed me to step back and gather a few questions together before I proceeded. 1) How many coats of paint should I apply before it interferes with the proper seating of the replacement trigger guard assembly? 2) Krylon high-temp outdoor grill enamel should work, yeah? 3) I have a lock washer that came with my conversion kit. I may have missed the part in the instructions, but they only mention the flat washer. What is the purpose of the lock washer? 4) Has anyone else felt that the axis pins feel much easier to push out than at the beginning of the disassembly? Maybe there is supposed to be some retaining friction when the FCG is fully installed? Or maybe it's just my imagination? Thanks, guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sneaky 2 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 1. i did about 4 coats of dura coat. As many as you want as long as it doesn't interfere with anything. 2. Should work sure. Ive heard of people using it before. 3. Might be for the pistol grip screw. How big is it? 4. Make sure the retaining plate or shepherds crook or whatever you got is routed correctly. There's a thread on here somewhere with a really good picture on it. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Okay, I was cruising along on my first conversion, when I hit the part where I had to repaint the bare spot left by the original trigger guard plate. This allowed me to step back and gather a few questions together before I proceeded. 1) How many coats of paint should I apply before it interferes with the proper seating of the replacement trigger guard assembly? Not sure which trigger guard you are using, but I always refinish after the guard is installed. Doesn't matter when you do it though, Just apply 3 or 4 light coats of paint and it should be fine. Allow plenty of time for it to cure. 2) Krylon high-temp outdoor grill enamel should work, yeah? If you like that paint, sure. 3) I have a lock washer that came with my conversion kit. I may have missed the part in the instructions, but they only mention the flat washer. What is the purpose of the lock washer? Which kit did you buy? 4) Has anyone else felt that the axis pins feel much easier to push out than at the beginning of the disassembly? Maybe there is supposed to be some retaining friction when the FCG is fully installed? Or maybe it's just my imagination? I don't quite understand what you are saying, but I use retainer plates. The pins move freely until your retention device is in. Thanks, guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) 1. a hell of a lot 2. yes 3. do you have a tapco saw grip in your conversion kit? thats probably it 4. there's a little bent piece of wire that fits into a groove on the left side of the axis pins to hold them in, e clips also work but a retaining plate is best and, after you paint it bake the gun in the oven at something like 200 degrees for an hour or so, i think there's a pic around here somewhere of the wood block i use to hold saigas in the oven Edited February 14, 2012 by Russian Hammer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Photoguy 202 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 @ russian hammer- Baking it? Man, I thought I'd spray a handful(like 5, at most) of coats and just let the thing sit over a radiator for 48 hours or so, lol! @ evlblk- I got the Kit #1 from CSS. Like Hammer suggested, it must be for the inside of the SAW grip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 that would work fine too, baking is just the quickest way to cure the paint Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Photoguy 202 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I got ready to start spraying when I woke up, but I forgot to acquire some fine-grit sand paper and a tack cloth. Time to run to Menards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Cleanup with alcohol before painting and figure you want to end up with shiny smooth metal rails. Tape those off unless you want to spray on then polish it back off. Most people say that paint is ok, but duplicolor low gloss engine paint is better and more durable. (~$6/ can @ any autoparts store.) I used the latter and it looks like the factory paint but holds up better. It is an excellent color match. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CPug 0 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I'm new to the forum so I apologize if this is not the correct topic to ask this question. I'm all set to purchase my first saiga and it will come converted 922r compliant. The seller also offers these 2 options with his conversions: 1- Install a low brass kit or 2- Modify the gas ports and block Not sure which one to choose. Any suggestions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I'm new to the forum so I apologize if this is not the correct topic to ask this question. I'm all set to purchase my first saiga and it will come converted 922r compliant. The seller also offers these 2 options with his conversions: 1- Install a low brass kit or 2- Modify the gas ports and block Not sure which one to choose. Any suggestions? who is the seller? it's a good idea to shoot the gun and see what might be wrong before drilling out ports and putting in new pucks and springs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Photoguy 202 Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Anyway, five coats of paint applied. Would I be correct in assuming this Krylon should take about 48 hours to fully cure, at an ambient room temp of about 67 degrees? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 krylon will take like 2 weeks or more to fully cure, that's why i bake it 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sneaky 2 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) Jesus, two weeks. Im glad i went with dura coat, only took 24 to cure and i was still too impatient to play with it and ended up with a couple little spots and smudges and subsiquently another coat of paint. Nothing real noticeable. Stuffs tough as nails. Lets see some pics once its done Edited February 15, 2012 by sneaky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 krylon will take like 2 weeks or more to fully cure, that's why i bake it I agree, the first time that I painted one I figured it would be good after a day, boy was I wrong! Bake in oven at around 300 degrees (your nose will tell you if it needs to be turned down) for a couple of hours, leave in oven for a few more. I like to do my painting in the evening so that I can bake in the late evening and leave it in the oven overnight after I shut the oven off before I go to bed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 so that I can bake in the late evening and leave it in the oven overnight after I shut the oven off before I go to bed. i honestly prefer to wake and bake i promise that's my last drug reference for the day, lol 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) so that I can bake in the late evening and leave it in the oven overnight after I shut the oven off before I go to bed. i honestly prefer to wake and bake i promise that's my last drug reference for the day, lol Edited February 15, 2012 by Caged Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CPug 0 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 I'm new to the forum so I apologize if this is not the correct topic to ask this question. I'm all set to purchase my first saiga and it will come converted 922r compliant. The seller also offers these 2 options with his conversions: 1- Install a low brass kit or 2- Modify the gas ports and block Not sure which one to choose. Any suggestions? who is the seller? it's a good idea to shoot the gun and see what might be wrong before drilling out ports and putting in new pucks and springs Thanks. Seller goes by Semper Fi on Gunbrokers. Again, sorry to jump on this topic but could not find any match with a forum search. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Drilling ports is better than springs, but it is easy enough to do yourself, I would be reluctant to pay some unknown on GB for and be out of luck if he screws up. You don't even know if you need either service. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Goose 95 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 I made a lock nut, I poxied the lock washer and the nut together for my SAW grip, no problems yet *knock on wood* And anything is better than the factory paint, lol I was really sad when I went to Gunscrubber the metal shavings out and the coat just hosed right off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Goose 95 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 I mis-spoke, I believe that there was a bolt and lock washer that came with the grip, and a screw that came with my CSS trigger guard, I poxied the lock washer to the screw that fit the trigger guard. I dunno I'm kinda drunk and watching UFC right now lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Photoguy 202 Posted February 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) So, you put the whole("whole" being just the receiver, gas tube and barrel) thing into a conventional oven? Edit: My oven will not accomodate the Saiga. Looks like I'm in for the long wait. Edited February 16, 2012 by Photoguy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Yeah. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Just remember to not get paint all over the bearing surfaces (receiver rails, etc.), barrel hood, inside of gas block, and chamber. Try to keep it off on the internals. Hope it goes well for you and post some pics or we will give you an extremely hard time 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Photoguy 202 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Okay, the Saiga has been baking for 2 hours at 200 degrees, then been left in for another hour and a half after the oven has been shut down. Now, I am facing the Wife's wrath for baking drying chemicals, as she referred to it, in her oven, and she is refusing to use it until I scrub the thing clean. What is the usual 'make-sure-there-aren't-any-chemicals baking-into-the-food' clean up procedure? Mind you, the Krylon had been drying for 24 hours before the baking. I assured her that since the paint was not wet, she SHOULD not have anything to fear, but even so, I'm nervous about it, lol! Help will be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 i've baked lots of guns and parts in the oven and never cleaned it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Turn it as high as it will go for a few hours, everything that's in it will burn to ash. That's what self cleaning ovens do, mind you, they have the capability to go as high or higher than 600 degrees... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Photoguy 202 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Edited for being a stupid question, lol! Edited February 18, 2012 by Photoguy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Edited for being a stupid question, lol! Damn, I hate being late, sounds like a good one lol! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Edited for being a stupid question, lol! did you post a pic of the bolt carrier and ask "what's this part and can i throw it away?" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Photoguy 202 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Edited for being a stupid question, lol! did you post a pic of the bolt carrier and ask "what's this part and can i throw it away?" ROFL! No, it pertained to th screws to the trigger guard and what their measurements were, even though they were clearly printed on the Tromix instruction sheet. Here are some pics so far. This....is nothing special. This...is the Krylon suffering some scrape damage. Not the thing I wanted to see this far into the build. Duracoat for the next one: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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