(pic heavy) New saiga 12

[unclejake 428]

Kudos on the quality of your photo work!! You will no doubt, be enjoying yours as much as the rest of us do ours. The good thing about macro shots is that you know where to polish and get her rippin up anything you please!

[BlackNet 10]

This AM my cat woke me up at 4:30am so I went out to the shop and broke out my flex shaft tool (many of you may know it as a foredom tool), I used several flapwheels and a carbide bit to slightly enlarge the gas hole; I packed her up and dumped 50 rounds of #8 estate at the range. Had 0 extraction/ejection problems and 0 short cycles. I did try 2 rounds of low recoil 00 buck that I have and that was a no go, apparently these refuse to use low recoil ammo, I suspect the vent hole may be to blame.

 

The areas I hit: the bolt, the bolt lugs, bolt grooves on the carrier, that stupid flat on the carrier that hits the hammer, the hammer.

 

The other good news is I can easily double tap now.

 

OH and yes one of my hobbies is photography. I like to document things like this and by showing macro photo's I can go back later and see things and compare.

 

Up next is the lower handguard then when money permits I will do the gas tube mod and put the upper on. I also want to fabricate a last round bolt hold open.

Edited May 14, 2012 by BlackNet

[G O B 3,516]

The 'vent hole' has no effect on the gas system.

[BlackNet 10]

If it's not the vent then what it is it?

[The_Caged_Bird 474]

From what I've been told, it's there to ensure atmospheric pressure behind the gas puck, i.e. to make sure there isn't a pressure build up or vaccuum behind the puck.

[BOB A. BOOEY 45]

The new stock came in today. I bought a timbersmith ak47 stock in Black Laminate for it, So far all seems good, I think..

 

 

 

Not a bad look considering, good color range and kinda has that camo look going on.

 

 

So down to business.

First up. Pistol grip looks like it will fit with no work needed, wohoo!

 

Next, but stock, shorter than the factory saiga 12 stock and considering the pistol grip is moved forward about the same distance there should be no problem. Length of Pull: a) Factory stock with PG is 16", ak47 stock with PG is 13". 13" is a tad to short but a 1 inch plate on the back should fix that nicely.

 

 

 

Not bad! I have some lens glare sorry about these crap images. Note the top handguard is at an angle but it does fit on there. May need some very minor filing to fit. The lower will need some serious work.

 

Here we see the 2 rear holes will need to be profiled on the stock, Also the middle of that hits the 3rd screw for the trigger guard!

 

 

top looks good so far. 2 drill holes in there.

 

and one below, I think I will add that one, May need some profiling on the grip for the head.

 

This does look good but it may also be to busy, not sure yet but the sides looks good!

 

 

Thats looks.....odd.

[BlackNet 10]

Odd how?

[gunfun 3,931]

I think it looks good.

 

Here's how I think you should fit the lower handguard:

1. measure your barrel by the gas block and by the barrel. IIRC it should be about 22.5 mm at the front, and 24mm at the back.
   
2. measure your stock handguard for the vertical drop from the "Inside Floor" to the top of the lug that sticks into the receiver. you may need to remove material to make this match. Now for the length and thickness of the lug,,,
   
3. Clamp an angle grinder to a table or in your vice. put a flapwheel on it. Hold the LGH in your hand and slide it back and forth on the disc of the flap wheel to remove material from the insides of the LHG. Go slow check often and use the layers of laminate as a visual guide.
   

 

Using a grinder disc or flap wheel as I suggest is the easiest way to smoothly remove material. The lathed dowel and sandpaper could work, but it would be slow going, That is OK, but it would be hard to keep it from gouging and bobbling side to side, which would make a wavy interior plane or divots .

[BlackNet 10]

the Angle grinder thing may be workable, I do have one of those as well. My lathe is a Jet 1220 and it is damned good for stuff like this.

 

I mostly use it to make pens.

 

I also have a foredom tool and that may be the best thing to use. I was looking at my huge selection of flapwheels I have.

[gunfun 3,931]

As long as you are sure that won't yank the thing out of your hands... Maybe move the rest up and pad it, so that you can make sure you don't stray toward one side or the other.

 

Sliding the whole thing mounted on a jig to a table surface would be good, but it isn't really a convenient shape to clamp down solidly.

[YOT 3,743]

I love the wood choice, BlackNet. I not sure what you meant by "busy," though. I finished mine with TruOil and it really brought the dark out of the laminate.

[BlackNet 10]

As for the yanking out of my hand the more slop you have the more chances that will happen, also higher speed the more likely.

 

I took some follow up post for the polishing that I did do.

 

I used tetra lube then dumped 50 rounds, this is the results. The bolt is not mirror by no means. I put lube on the rails, the hammer and the carrier rear flat.

 

 

This area is a major pain in the ass. This is the slot where the bolt fits into and rotates. The bottom had major ripples in it.

 

 

This is the rear bottom of the carrier. It slides across the bolt. What troubles me about this is this area resets the hammer when it is upright. The grooves was not there before so there are still some spots that need work.

 

The other concern area:

 

and

 

 

Basically this is the factory trigger. The angle that it hits the firing pin base is at an angle.

 

As for the hammer face, well.

 

The ripples and gouge was not in there before, From the previous photo's I am going to put a new angle on the hammer face.

 

Here is how the bottom marks happen:

 

Worth noting here, the bottom gouges are from the carrier, there are multiple strikes in different heights on the hammer which indicates the hammer is in different positions when it is hit.

 

Also worth noting here. I am currently under the impression that some type of nickel plating for the bolt would be ideal. Also I am questioning the heat treatment on the hammer, appears to be none. Could certainly benefit from some slight treatment and plating.

[BlackNet 10]

I fit the lower guard in place tonight.

 

 

 

I dont have the retainer in yet, hopefully it will be here tomorrow. I did some clean up on the upper guard as well. In these photo's they are just sitting there, not bolted in place.

 

 

I cut the BHO slot, Next on this will be some filework on the tab.

 

some selective polishing on the bolt and carrier.

 

view from below where it matters! I added some gunslick to a few areas and some spray oil all over and she's baby ass smooth now.

Edited May 19, 2012 by BlackNet

[BlackNet 10]

Ok I figured I would give one more update on this project. I was able to fit the lower guard in place, I also used glassbedding on it for a perfect fit and had to do some changes to the retainer ring but she's tight and holds up good.

 

A few mods to the BHO.

I can easily enage that and force the bolt open during operation (Meaning push the BHO, squeeze the trigger and bolt will stay open)

 

 

 

This is pre-bed and pre-changes to the retaining ring. Basically I just changed the profile to hold it to this grip.

 

I intend to apply park after I change the rear sights. But for now she shoots very good, good groupings about 2 inch spread on rapid firing.

[Squishy 1,149]

Looks like your other hobby, photography has paid off with some skill.

Very impressive pics, about the best I've seen of S-12 bits and pieces.

 

I agree. And if these are "crap photos" I want to see the good ones when you get them done.

[The_Caged_Bird 474]

Damn fine looking weapon you've got there!

[gunfun 3,931]

Nicely done.I love the look of the grey laminates. It looks classy without being ostentatious.

.

Is that retainer from Dinzag?

[BlackNet 10]

Yes the retainer is from Dinzag. The guard shape is a U, while the retainer shape is more of a V which means the ends are flared out but I was able to bend them inwards yielding a much tighter fit on the guard, esp side to side motion.

 

Also at the range I noticed the gas tube was not heating up but the barrel sure was. I was somewhat afraid the gas tube would be to hot to touch and I would be touching it with no guard in place but that was not the case at all.

 

 

Here you can clearly see the areas that need to be aligned.

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

Yeah, you really have to dump a lot of shells through a S-12 in a short time to make the gas tube uncomfortably hot. It's a lot easier to do with a Saiga rifle. After ~60 7.62x39 rnds fired quickly, (bump-fired bursts), even the front of the receiver is warm to the touch, while the barrel, brake, gas block, etc are hot enough to burn flesh, (or flash-melt snow, fun in the winter), quite easily.

 

Anyway, I think your build is very clean and well-done, BlackNet.

Edited May 29, 2012 by post-apocalyptic

[gunfun 3,931]

If you are really worried about a hot gas tube the perforated cobra 762 cover looks decent there, and doesn't require hundreds of dollars of parts from dinzag. (and if you go that route, get the real thing instead of rewarding people for knocking it off for the same money.)

Edited June 16, 2012 by GunFun

[BlackNet 10]

The #1 reason to opt for the dinzag parts was so I can use the upper handguard, also to make it look fully like an ak47.