Pulpit 1 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 So I ordered the basic reliability kit for my unconverted Saiga 12. Reason is when I was shooting on port 1 I got many FTE throughout. I switched to port 2 and it ran great with low brass and such. What can I expect with the reliability kit and what do you suggest a newbie like me focus on with regards to modification to my Saiga 12? Not looking to spend a lot of money unless needed. I just want this gun to be dead reliable and fun to shoot. It will see about 1000 rounds per year on average. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KennyFSU 249 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 If it ran low brass just fine in setting 2 then why bother with the reliability kit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 If it ran low brass just fine in setting 2 then why bother with the reliability kit? +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 If it ran low brass just fine in setting 2 then why bother with the reliability kit? +1 +2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
romad7 75 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 3 So I ordered the basic reliability kit for my unconverted Saiga 12. Reason is when I was shooting on port 1 I got many FTE throughout. I switched to port 2 and it ran great with low brass and such. What can I expect with the reliability kit and what do you suggest a newbie like me focus on with regards to modification to my Saiga 12? Not looking to spend a lot of money unless needed. I just want this gun to be dead reliable and fun to shoot. It will see about 1000 rounds per year on average. Thanks! 2 is for low brass and 1 is for heavy loads. So get some 00 buck and run it on 1. If it runs fine with heavy on 1 and light on 2 then congrats on a good gun. There are a lot of thing that should be done on a gun that doesn't run well with the reliability kit being the least among them. Spend your money on the conversion first and go from there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) Not looking to spend a lot of money unless needed. You just did that by buying the "reliability kit." Edited August 21, 2012 by Yeoldetool 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Thank you for your replies, as you can tell I am a novice and I am glad I found your site. Do you guys recommend having a smith do the conversion or tackling it myself? Also, I see where there are lots of videos on how to enlarge the gas ports to 3/32" to allow low brass to be shot on setting 1. Is this recommended as well? The reason I ask is because reading other posts of how a part ( I forget the name) gets beat up if used on setting 2 too much. Thanks again, and please pardon the novice questions. I'm trying to learn and have no problem trying things myself, but if it is better to take to a smith, I can do that too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Oh, and uh....return the kit? Newbie mistake... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
romad7 75 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Thank you for your replies, as you can tell I am a novice and I am glad I found your site. Do you guys recommend having a smith do the conversion or tackling it myself? Also, I see where there are lots of videos on how to enlarge the gas ports to 3/32" to allow low brass to be shot on setting 1. Is this recommended as well? The reason I ask is because reading other posts of how a part ( I forget the name) gets beat up if used on setting 2 too much. Thanks again, and please pardon the novice questions. I'm trying to learn and have no problem trying things myself, but if it is better to take to a smith, I can do that too. If you can use basic tools, drill, allen wrench, dremel, etc then you can do the conversion yourself. CSS has some good videos for that, its pretty easy. If your gun runs fine with the Walmart bulk (Federal preferred) then you probably don't need to enlarge the ports or do much gas system work at all. Gas system work is mainly for guns that don't run very well. Make sure that your gun can run at least Federal bulk pack and 00 Buck before converting as a baseline. Then if it changes after converting then you know where to start fixing. The rear trunnion is where the bolt carrier group will hit if it goes all the way to the rear. This can happen if you shoot high brass loads on setting 2, this allows more gas to flow which can "over gas" your gun causing the damage to the rear trunnion. An Auto Plug is a good part to add to a well running gun to avoid this error and not have to think about gas settings. Do a search for Auto Plug, you'll find a lot of good reading. Yes, I think the consensus is return the reliability kit and address the conversion first then come back for troubleshooting if it develops issues with cycling/reliability Where do you live? there might be someone local who can help you out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewoketeer 35 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 The reason for setting 1 is so the higher gas amount doesn't batter the gun unnecessarily. The weapon system was originally designed for high brass/high gas only. The #2 setting was made for use with low impulse ammunition (read-light loads). Hope this helps... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 If your gun is running all the ammo you want to shoot on #2, there is absolutely no need to do anything to the ports, or use light springs, or any of that business. 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 This helps tremendously! Thanks guys! I will do as you have suggested, and I am sure I'll be back with more questions. Shooting it for the first tim eyesterday made me a believer. I am anxious to shoot some 00 Buck on setting 1 to see if I have any FTE. I think that will tell me a lot. I was pleased to get maybe one FTE through 50 rounds with low brass and high brass combo yesterday on setting 2. Again, thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KennyFSU 249 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) As stated earlier, setting 2 should be used for low brass/light loads. If you're shooting high brass/heavy loads then make sure it's on setting 1, your rear trunnion will thank you. There are many helpful members on this site that have helped me out tremendously as well. Edited August 21, 2012 by KennyFSU Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Thanks Kenny, I am indebted to you guys. I have already learned a great deal and will continue to here I am sure. I am in Cumming, GA by the way if anyone is close by. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 So I ordered the basic reliability kit for my unconverted Saiga 12. Reason is when I was shooting on port 1 I got many FTE throughout. I switched to port 2 and it ran great with low brass and such. What can I expect with the reliability kit and what do you suggest a newbie like me focus on with regards to modification to my Saiga 12? Not looking to spend a lot of money unless needed. I just want this gun to be dead reliable and fun to shoot. It will see about 1000 rounds per year on average. Thanks! Were you trying to shoot low brass on setting one? Personally I have never shot my S12 with the original gas plug. I got the low brass kit and never looked back. It was $45. I can afford it.... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Yes, Bob, I tried on level 1 to start and got constant FTE. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) Yes, Bob, I tried on level 1 to start and got constant FTE. As others have stated.... perfectly expected and normal. You should NOT be trying to get low brass to run on setting one. Edited August 21, 2012 by Spartacus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Yes sir. I understand that now. Level 1 heavy loads, Level 2 low brass and light loads. Thanks a lot. I am afraid I am addicted now. Conversion sounds intimidating but the tutorials make it look step by step easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
45Bretired 19 Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 (edited) It really is that easy. That's me robbing myself outta local Biz. F it I'm not trying to rip anybody off. Just like race Glocks I tell em why? I'll do it but I'm trying to be fair. Edited August 23, 2012 by 45Bretired Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 45Bretired, what is the cost of a conversion if the customer has all the parts there for you? A friend of mine is going to do mine for me, while I am there he is going to walk me through it, etc. I just want to know a fair price to pay him. He wants to do it for free, but I'd rather him be compensated for his time and skills. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KennyFSU 249 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Buy him a 12-pack. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Thanks, I'll see if he likes Coke or Diet Coke. I was thinking $100? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Thanks, I'll see if he likes Coke or Diet Coke. I was thinking $100? It takes 4-5 hours of work to do a really good Saiga12 conversion. Some do it in less time and have to go back and re-work certain areas.Re-profiling the hammer& bolt, filing .060 off the hammer side for the BHO, drilling rivets, checking gas ports for proper size,paint, and assembly takes time. Do it right the first time. The last four S12's I did ran 100% after doing it right the first time .No FTE/FTF, and NO LOW BRASS RELIABILITY KIT!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOB A. BOOEY 45 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Yes, Bob, I tried on level 1 to start and got constant FTE. As others have stated.... perfectly expected and normal. You should NOT be trying to get low brass to run on setting one. Yeah it shoulda been on setting 2. I personally just skipped the whole original plug and bought the kit. Im fine with that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 I definitely want to do it right the first time which is why I am going to have someone with knowledge give their expertise. I look forward to it as I got the parts in today! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
45Bretired 19 Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 (edited) Okay Bob is an idiot. I don't do anything half ass and I don't believe in reliability kits. These guns are a simple puzzle they need a little attention to some very small details and bam you have a world beater, yes I started out with hot rods that's where my verbiage comes from. They are some curious creatures but they are not something that can be properly fixed by a "reliability kit" if it don't work make it work. I however agree to buy ya boy a sixer or some real VODKA! Made with potatoes of course no other way. I've built some for cost for some buddies. I won't lose money but I don't mind breaking even just for advertisement. Look I'm a nobody who builds guns that run like a spotted ass ape. They are fun and enjoyable just to hold. Oops drunk rant sorry bob I don't know you and I don't care. My stuff work's for real. If you want to see my work youtube Rebel Gunwerx Saiga 12. I admit the vid sucks but my 10 yr old daughter was on the cam and she shot the S12 herself. Please insult me not her. I work in the airline industry and will fly to your house like some Jay and Silent Bob shit feel me! Let your buddy do it. If he funks it up and your within driving distance from NW Florida I'll fix it but don't let him DRILL anything unless he knows what he's doing. Most important thing to remember is have fun doing every step to make it what you want it to be. I would never turn out a gun that won't run Winchester Universal reliably all day everyday. Edited August 25, 2012 by 45Bretired 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Bob is an idiot.. What airline do you work for? I have worked for Continental since 89 (currently United) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pulpit 1 Posted August 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 I appreciate the info and look forward to getting it converted. Wish I was closer to NW Florida. I am a tad north of Atlanta. My friend has the experience and I am sure he will do a great job. I am also excited about seeing it done right so I can learn myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
45Bretired 19 Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 (edited) Me too since 01. Not to pleased with the merger. Edited August 25, 2012 by 45Bretired 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Me too since 01. Not to pleased with the merger. I work IAH 757 heavy check. pretty close to a couple of the Teamsters union Trustees if you have any questions.We are still hiring techs off the street. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.