Darth AkSarBen

I used a dremel cut off wheel and cut my BHO to a shorter length. It "almost" fits flush when the bolt is held back. It sticks down a lot less noticable now as I did not like the feel of it on my finger.

I think that is only 15 degrees and not 45 degrees.

I have a RCBS primer pocket reamer (hand) that has kind of step to it. Cleans out the bottom of the primer and helps to get a nice chamfer for the primer to seat. Helps, but doesn't quite finish. I then use a 3 blade counter sink I have at a 120 deg angle and touch up the primer a bit more. Even at all of that when I use my Lee hand primer tool sometimes I have to really push hard to seat that primer, and when I get done the primer is now really flattened on the surface, like you had shot it already and it was over pressure load, but it has not been fired. Difference of the primer make quite a

I saw your post at the link, with the pistol grip nut "washer". However, the threads on the PG nut go all the way though. Just cut the bottom of the PG nut off a few thousands, use a dremel to clean up and counter sink the hole a bit on the bottom end where the PG Bolt meets. The threads are not unique and can easily be chased by running a bolt down from the top and on out through. I don't even think you'd need a tap to clean them. This would effectively make your PG nut shorter and may tighten up the grip to the receiver.

B. would work better if one would mill down the raised area to even and then put in a hardened steel insert 0.006" well tacked in there. On a thread I have of "Needful Things" Brian Wagner of Lawson Industries also has demonstrated some unique welding compound, a thin piece of wire that you can solder with at a temperature of 92 deg. C. VERY low temp stuff, but has 50,000 psi tensile strength when cooled. A small insert, with a center hole for the firing pin (put in after you weld in the insert) would give the same effect of the raised area for headspace, but now would distribute that he

Looks very nice!! Looks like the AK-101 for sure. Russian built for sure. Kalashnikov himself said back in the '60s if it's not Russian built, it's not an AK. So in that regrards, according to the General, the Saigas converted may be "MORE" AK than those ones made in Yugoslovia, or Bulgaria, etc.

Try putting a few flat washers on the PG bolt before putting the bolt through the grip and into the PG nut.

What would happen if I had an AK-101 bolt and carrier? Would it be able to match up to the barrel for correct head space? BTW Mike, how did you find out about the unique feature of the Saiga in .223?

Worked on a load last night of 25.0 gr Hodgdon Benchmark, with a 55 gr JHP BT Sierra GameKing (not Speer) I took picture and then realized that it was not the Speer bullets but the Sierra bullets, so rather than re-take the pictures, I edited on the target and figured I'd just mention it in here. 100 yards, and 6 shots. Normally I shot 3 shot groups testing, or a 5 shot group for point of impact, but last night I ended up making one extra bullet, so thought.. what the heck. Group on the furthest holes measured 0.891" center - center. It seems to open up a bit more with an extra .5 grain of pow

1:12

From another forum site I found out that Lowes has some hole plugs in 3/16" black configuration. Part number 139446 made by Hillman. $1.04 for package of 2. I know you can get them from other sorces, and vendors here, but if you need a couple to plug up a couple of holes, and wander by any Lowes, you might find them "convenient". LOWES Black Hole Plugs You can either search in Lowes with the above number of give them the model number of 881274, and should come out the same. When I put them on my rifle, looks just like a rivet. Just wanted to post this as.... For What It's Worth

I went to Auto Zone and bought a door guard strip. Then I cut just about 2" off and put on the dust cover where the shells flie out the most. I have reduced shell dings to 0.

If that's the picture posted of it, why don't you just take it to a place that has a drill press, drill 2 small holes the same size as a small pin or finishing nail, right through the 2 flats on the underneat of the FSB? You will drill through the sight, and the barrel and in essense your barrel will have a small groove in it. That will always hold it on and it should be able to be taken off again if needed. Won't spot welding change the temper of the steel in the barrel right there?

Pretty Background. Reminds me of home back in NW Nebraska.

I wonder if anyone has ever made a home made flash suppressor out of black pipe? you could thead the end of the barrel with a pipe thread die and then use a pipe tap of corresonding threads for the inside of the black pipe. Galvanized pipe woudn't really do, but the black steel pipe used in gas line might work out well.

Check out Midway USA. I got a flyer from them the other day and they had digital calipers for only $16.99. I have the same and they are very accurate.

If the barrel is smaller after the shroud is removed you will have to go to a different size die for the threads, or suffer looing depth of threads, depending on "how" small you are talking. Size of actual diameter you want to thread will go a long ways in determing size of die.

Many thanks m1key!! Bet all the .308 in a 16" will belch fire with the right ammo. Bet they can be tamed down a bit with faster burning powder to be used up in that 16" barrel as well. Vern

Now inquiring minds know.

Still wondering the barrel length of that rifle of phoglund???

Also, it could be the harmonics and circular motion of the end of the barrel at the moment that the bullet leaves the muzzle is not true to what a laser on a static barrel woud show. Imagine a barrel crown rotating around an axis and somwewhere from the 12:00 postion to probably somehwere at 11:55 you never "exactly" know wherer that crown is at the very moment that the bullet exits the muzzle. Hence, handloading, powder changes, burn rates, crimp, bullet size, bullet configuration (flat base or boat tail) how much boat tail if latter, and on and on. Key is to get the barrel in the same s

Pointer55, You might take a look at this slow motion video (not long) of an AK-47 firing in slow motion. Very cool, but I downloaded it to My Videos in a folder and have a program called FLV Player that I can play the video anytime and resize it to a bit larger Link For FLV Player Download The video is found here Pay attention to how the rear sight jumps out of it's positoin upon firing.

It's kind of hard looking at the business end if it was 16" or 22" though.

Went to that page, they are talking about .0039 movement in the largest of those measurements.....do you KNOW how small that is? That is three to four THOUSANTHS of an inch. You cannot discern that with your naked eye. Also I didn't say the barrel doesn't move, I said it doesn't move enough for you to see it which your data backs up. I have seen that other video as well and am convinced that the barrel cannot be moving as much as it appears to, it's possible the cleaning rod is moving and creating an optical illusion, or that the occilation is doing the same pen trick I mentioned before. Also

Ah, Jeff, it's good to see a fellow that can type on a keyboard!! LOL Seriously, you have forgotten some key issues. 1> The bullet firing creates a lot of torque on the barrel which is causing it to spin, and the friction slows it down, hence the torque. 2.> If what you say, that a barrel does not move, then ALL of the AK-47s and such should shoot to one hole group with any ammunition you use, as long as they are secured in a vice or similar dead-man holding device to the same POA. It don't work that way in real life. In all actuality a barrel sort of begins a bit of rotational, "