20nickels

I can't watch the vids, buggy internet, but I'll take your word for it that these brakes work. Anybody running these will be using a straight cylinder bore though. Some constriction would be nice... I've taken into account also that I'm using AA 1350 fps in a standard length barrel. If anything will work a Kicks comp, this will. I would have to consider signifigant costs vs. benefits to change setups. Goods replies.

I think I'll pass after reading this about porting. Chuck Hawks; http://www.chuckhawks.com/shotgun_recoil.htm "This one has little basis, as there is so little gas pressure left in 12,000 PSI MAP (SAAMI maximum pressure) loads by the time the gas hits the ports that it can't do much of anything. The recoil reduction is minimal. Perhaps even sillier are ported choke tubes, which have even less pressure to work with. Drill enough holes in a perfectly good barrel, you will actually increase free recoil by a tiny amount, as you gun weighs a bit less. Super-large extended choke tubes can als

Hi Gun Fun, There are a fair amount of turkey chokes that are vented/ported but few (maybe one, the Kick's) that have a modified constriction. I suppose I could ask around if the turkey chokes of similair design reduce recoil these should too. The recoil isn't bad, I'm just looking to gain an edge.

I'm using a modified choke with Cobra's adapter and it works well but is there anything out there that compensates or effectively reduces recoil as well? Maybe this? http://www.basspro.com/Kicks-High-Flyer-Choke-Tubes/product/56326/# Open to suggestions, Tks ahead.

Aimpoint CompM3 on RS regulate side mount.

Can't wait till my playground gets one!

Did a couple 2" groups today while sighting in the V2 w/ an Aimpoint micro on an RS regulate mount. Used a Caldwell front rest and 7N6 ammo. Didn't take pics so you will just have to take my word for it. The dot perfectly covered the 4 moa bullseye diamond, so it help me center in on it. Oh yeah, was @ 100 yds.

Fug that, lol. I'm not being lazy, just wanting to increase reliability. I know it's not a RPK but its.... similar.

Best answer. Won't touch. My factory puck is snug. How about the back of my Autoplug? It gets carbon caked on but I think I like the whatever coating is on it from Tac47.

Okay tight I agree with whole heartedly but why not less friction too? Not overdoing it of course.

My S12 f'ing runs. No complaints. Last week before a multigun match I hit the puck a little with 1200 grit paper, mostly the edges. What could it hurt? I'm just going for ultimate reliability. I didn't clean it for a long time, one yr I think, and it finally started choking so I thought.. why not see if I can extend it's round count between cleanings? If you hit some critical spots to reduce friction and fouling reliability should increase right? Should I polish further or just drink less coffee and not dwell on things so much?

How are you keeping muzzle devices attached to the integrated sight models? The flash hider I want has no wrench flats, chinese type 83 copy. Will a 14mm crush washer plus some high temp thread locker do it? Maybe a filter wrench to tighten it?

Okay, do NOT use a larger tap/screw w/ a Vepr and CSS 5.45 bullet guide There is a step under the trunion you will run into w/ the tap and break the tap. Stick w/ 6-32.

What size do you like? My 8-32 just broke

Thats easy, MD Arms. No contest. Cope's has them.

Finally got it how I want it. Shannon @ Cobra Custom polished the guts and it runs like a striped assed ape. I have a thread that explains the quick detach swivel.

Blue has worked for me so far if it fails I'll use High temp loctite or permatex.

1- Shorter tubes are stiffer and therefore more accurate. Longer tubes have more velocity but more "whip" that causes vertical stringing. 2- 18" to 19.5" is an ideal comprimise in length IMO. 3- Chop barrel to desired length and square up with a file. Polish with a round head brass screw and some Flitz or valve lapping compound chucked in a drill OR Pacific tool makes a 30 Cal. piloted crowning tool for M1's but should work for any .30 w/ a muzzle OD up to 14mm or 15mm. http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1127 The angle of t

Finally got it started. Problem was barrel piece was slightly out of round (bore not concentric w/ OD) and needed a slight .45 angle as opposed to being a flat 90 degrees. Oh, and needed a helluva lot of pressure.

Respectfully, I think your rifle deserves a fine optic. SWFA 1-4 or 1-6 on RS Regulates,soon to be released, dual ring 30mm mount. An optics setup as tough as the rifle.

Two issues coming up here; 9 vs 40, They are so close it's not worth arguing. A modern 9mm hp expands to the size of a .40 even through cover and penetrates the same w/ more shots per mag, less recoil. Premium ammo favors the nine in defensive situations. With non expanding ammo meplat diameter will always win. Glocks in Forty. If you purchase a firearm built around the 9 and then converted to the .40 eventually you will have troubles. Modern forties have more steel in the right places.

Excellent idea but please use a material that doesn't spark. Edit; PVC DIY kinetic bullet puller. http://www.calguns.n...d.php?p=9480361 Is there anything pvc won't do lol. I just made a 12ga shot puller out of 3/4" PVC like the one linked. It was stoooopid easy and it works. Take a 12ga shell to the hardware store and you will see there is several ways to configure this. 12ga shell OD is 13/16" fwiw.

I have not but a friend tumbles them in Graphite.

Try to cut them with pliers. If it cuts it's lead, if not it's zinc. Lead will melt and zinc will float @ 300 degrees I think. Don't melt the zinc! It will ruin the batch. I use Kroil as a non-stick agent and Bull plate sprue lube. Polish your mould, the slugs will drop easier. Google Lee menting.

Last pic shows direction of cutting edges.