Mephis
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Everything posted by Mephis
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$1999. Didn't have tax or shipping to pay. No, the trigger is staying as is. I have no idea how people think this is a bad trigger, it's a better trigger than my RRA's 2 stage match, it's just a little heavier. I think people have overall have issues with their hands. All the glock 2.5LB drop in trigger kits should be a hint. Need to lay off the hormones in GMO foods. -
From the album: Tombs' Firearms
Picked 'er up yesterday. -
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From the album: Tombs' Firearms
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From the album: Tombs' Firearms
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From the album: Tombs' Firearms
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I just tried it, it works with my 20.5". I have a feeling not many people will manage to figure out how to do this little trick, but it's a nifty feature. Sure takes a hell of a lot of force to pull the bolt back after doing this though.
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From the album: Tombs' Firearms
I've wanted this firearm for the better part of my lifetime yet have never made an attempt to get one. Drank the koolaid too often and was too good to buy some snooty brand. Finally found the right one today at the local gun shop, priced lower than a new glock... It's a 1994, standard rifled barrel, variant 3 USP 9mm. It must have never been fired except a couple times, because the internals are flawless, and the finish shows no wear anywhere except around the edges of the back of the barrel. Everything about this gun fits me like a glove, and the quality is head and shoulders abo -
Hahaha 7 pounds for a G2? Geez, I just ran down the levels of sand paper on the hook and hammer till I got down to 1500grit, then used white and blue polishing rouge. Mine I don't have a gauge to measure, but it can't be the slightest bit over 2 pounds. It's safe because there's just as much engagement area as there was initially, it just takes no effort to overcome that stage. It feels like a 2 stage trigger but that it's missing the second stage you'd expect to hit, lol. Safety works great, drop testing the gun still shows that there's little to no concern over the ridiculously l
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One reason why I can't understand why someone would buy this gun solely with the intent of using corrosive ammunition. Buy a mosin if you want to deal with all that crap, much easier to pour some water down the bore and be done with it. With a gas gun, you're looking at one hell of a mess to clean, none the less with wood furniture thrown into the mix. I really can't picture this rifle being designed to run surplus ammunition. It's a russian hunting rifle... Unlikely that most people who would have interest in a 5 shot hunting rifle would buy it to blow spam cans away dirt shooting all
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Until you try some new manufacture commercial ammunition in the rifle, nothing can be done or known about the problem. Because you fail to understand WHY that needs to be done, doesn't mean it isn't important. If you knew why it needs done, you would have already had the issue resolved on your own. What I see is a brand new rifle suffering with ammunition that lacks the umph to cycle the gun fully. Marketing BS on the part of who sold you the ammo need not apply to reality. If the rifle is still FTEing with wolf, silver bear, or brown bear, then I would see exactly what kind of FTE you
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Looks like the ammunition is under powered, or something is robbing all the energy from the bolt. I'd take a close look at your extractor and check its function. Next, I'd take a close look for any wear marks on the receiver rails, and post pictures of that here. Also, check your guide rod and recoil spring and make sure they're lubed and not binding. Failing all that, if the rifle is fine, it's the ammunition. Get a box of wolf, silver bear, or brown bear. If it doesn't have problems with that ammunition, and it seems noticeably more powerful, then I'd be checking in with peop
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No need for the much magnification. Better glass wouldn't be a bad idea though. Always push NPZ stuff over the POSP scopes because there's no comparison. NPZ's optics are to leupold as POSPs are to BSA. Put an NPZ PO-4x24 on an AK mount base, absolutely perfect for both the vepr and saiga. An SVD base will fit on the veprs, but I'm not sure which optics will clear the rear sight. I'm pretty sure any of the 24mm scopes will clear it, but I'm not recommending you try it unless you have one laying around.
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I'd rather see a 12-15 round mini drum magazine, or something that was along the lines of a quad stack design. But Ill take what I can get. I have no interest in making a balanced and comfortable rifle into a mall ninja gun.
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Get an NPZ PO 4x24mm and grab an AK base from kalinka. Swap the bases, pin the scope. It's the best you will do for the platform and clears the sights perfectly. I use all rusky optics with my left eye, which gives you a very relaxed cheek weld. Not sure if that is the "correct" way to do it, but it's the most comfortable and repeatable for me. I only have a crappy picture for now but... I think this set up would make the OCD builders over at molot blush.
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VEPR 54R/308 Drop-In Trigger G2 Review w/pics..
Mephis replied to paprotective's topic in Vepr 7.62 X 54r
I spent about 4 hours working on the factory trigger group of my new 20.5" vepr. Even though the trigger is heavy, I set the release point to be just a bit different and managed to get rid of ALL of the grittyness in the trigger. Every time the hammer falls it's quite an unexpected surprise, sort of like a finely tuned 1911 trigger. There is no over travel to speak of and there is not much pre-travel on the first stage now. I can't imagine going to a single stage trigger in this gun... The 2 stage trigger is absolutely amazing if you know exactly what to do to accomplish what I did. Wo -
Standard PK-AS is fantastic... Or get an NPZ PO4x24 and swap the mount to the standard POSP AK style mount to correct the eye relief as the AK mount from NPZ puts the optic too far rearward. Not going to find better options unless you get an RS mount and slap on an aimpoint... But even then the PKAS is a better suited optic for the platform than an aimpoint, much more precise and better for general use since it has NO impact what so ever on your iron sight picture.
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Mine works great, I had to crank the adjustment almost all of the way in with an MD booster puck though. Still is a little iffy with winchester walmart bulk packs from a drum, but with anything else it's 100%. I also run a cheap squishy buffer from a gun show. It works amazingly well and does not contribute to any malfunctions with weak ammunition, but greatly improves controllability with 3" magnums.
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Regardless what forums say, what I've seen wolf ammo do and had it do in my own experiences leads me to believe it isn't nearly as bad of stuff as people think it is. It's not the hottest stuff out there, but it is capable of good accuracy and some rifles really like it. You really need to try it in yours next to what ever else you normally use to evaluate it for that specific rifle.
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I can't speak from experience regarding that specific kit's trigger, but I do have a microtech MSAR bullpup. The trigger is large and plastic, it feels large and plastic. BUT, it breaks 100% clean and like a glass rod when you actually push it. Bullpups don't have to have bad triggers as long as the linkage is solid, and doesn't have any angles in it that allows it to bend or distort. Inside the body of that MSAR all the linkage goes into slots that barely touch it to reduce drag, but they prevent the linkage from flexing. A super clean breaking very solid 6 pound trigger on a bullpup is p
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For the record, if you buy a new S&W revolver, it'll come wrapped in the same kind of paper. Yea, I was kind of shocked to open up my new $1000 revolver's case for the first time and see it wrapped in VCI paper.
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The width of the buttplate on the stock you use is about 95% of where your felt recoil will come in. If it's fairly wide, it'll just push you around. If it's traditional and narrow, it'll stab you and the recoil can become a tad annoying. After 100 rounds off a bench, my shoulder wasn't feeling the best, but that was with a kvar nato length. When I had a tapco warsaw length stock, it didn't have nearly as much recoil. The nato length makes using a PSO a lot more comfortable. If I didn't care about looks and wasn't using russian glass, I'd put an ace stock on it, and use that rubber
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Very nice group there. You old people, always talking about how bad your eyes are while forgetting the vast difference in experience and knowledge... And then half of you shooting sub-moa with irons. I've gotten respectable accuracy out of my saiga, only problem is, I've never had a good rest. Laying the gun on some phone books lets it slide around quite a bit and resulted in some rather sad groups last time I tried. I bought a small cadwell a few months back and still need to get out and see what the saiga can do. Even with that POF ammunition, it was showing signs that it still liked
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Use your brain, closely inspect just how much of that lug actually makes contact inside of the trunnion, and how much has to be left to at least have it 2/3rds of the engagement it was beforehand. Then begin to reprofile it with hand files, please do not attempt to dremel this, at least for the dimensional changes. After you have it nubbed down but still able to engage solidly, run it over a buffing wheel with red rouge, clean the wheel, and then use white rouge on it. After it's all a mirror, heat it up with a hair drier till it's a little too hot to touch and swab cold bluing over it. Re
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While I have little interest in the products at the current time, I'm sincerely concerned about Mike, I hope he's alright. He's been a very important person to the community. Love him or hate him, he's one of the few who actually made things happen and made a difference in the world.
