my762buzz

I was ready to buy at least 5 SGL 10 rifles if the price was far under $800 the last time I checked on the atlantic website last year or so. Now it finally happens but no dimples. Less than $500 and dimples with 24mm threading and then I may get interested again. Until then, I won't hold my breath.

Yes 24mm. http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?productid=16986&cat=344&page=1

I can't find any welded linkage pin holes on mine so I am going to propose a basic hypothesis. They might be arriving in some variation with the trigger forward already.

Yes a tapco or other trigger group, a US made rear stock replacement, a US made pistol grip, etc...that would be 5 for 5 which is all you need unless you option for filing off the muzzle cap weld which could also require a US made muzzle device in such an event. Then it would be 6 for 6. The trigger forward set up would be marketed exclusively to those that want to convert. The bullet guide import issue is about the only possible sticking point but since I keep reading once in a while that Arsenal is somehow importing them with a bullet guide then maybe it really is not a sticking poi

I guess your right. What was I thinking? I could just get an SGL21 and not have to worry about those issues. It's also amazing that the Russians refuse to offer dimpled receiver rifles to Atlantic Firearms maybe a few more years of discussions will allow that.

Well I thought long on this and I think it can legally be done so here is an idea to really make many potential buyers happy. Get the next shipment imported with dimples, a bullet guide installed at the factory, and the trigger guard/group already in the forward position. The dimples will always make these even more appealing and I doubt it will cost anymore to specify the factory for dimpled receivers. A bullet guide preinstalled at the factory should have absolutely no import problems because the rifle will still not accept surplus military mags without filing the mag latch, but

They do have regular muzzle threading. 24mm has been the standard since the 1970s

Do these have stepped chambers like regular saigas or non-stepped like the Arsenal SGl21s?

This is how they should have been imported all along. Its about time.

Do these have stepped chambers like regular saigas or non-stepped like the Arsenal SGl21s?

Yes but I would limit my ammo choices to avoid over penetration. Hornady ammo would be my choice. It feeds like FMJ but expands like a defensive hollow point should. One solid hit in the chest and they are going down fast.

If this is the case, then yes they could import restricted rifles without needing to convert, but I never seen any reports of Arsenal supplying military or law enforcement armories with 100 series AKs. They could apply for the permits to try anyway. However, I would think the Feds would really have an issue with this IF the permit is to allow them to market to military and LEOs, but they instead install compliance parts and sell to civilians. I would imagine that the intended purpose of an import permit would play heaviliy into justifying granting it in the first place. I still give them kudos

Handloads with the right components will make a world of difference in 7.62x39 http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php?topic=144188.0

Since you bring this up, when I removed all the paint that my sgl21 came with, my trigger guard and oddly the front bayonet lug had a different paint that was not like the Izmash paint over the rest of the rifle. The paint remover peeled the trigger guard and the lug paint pretty fast and took an hour on the rest of the rifle. The paint on the receiver was not touched up with any of the easier to remove paint. Does this mean that Arsenal or possibly Izmash Legion custom shop painted the easy to remove paint on? I don't know. But, the linkage holes area wasn't touched up so I'm not sure what th

Ok, then Arsenal has some really talented welders working on these. The grain pattern on my SGL 21 where the linkage holes should be is flawless. I can't explain it otherwise.

I am willing to bet that the M3 EXP 1 rifles also have the rear trigger holes but don't have one that I can check.

Yes but no linkage holes. It might not be a regular welded up saiga. If it is, that is one heck of a perfect seamless weld job. How could you explain the lack of linkage holes if they were never there?

They probably used a regular non-third hole(non-select fire) receiver stamping that would normally be used for the saiga line but it didn't have the linkage pin holes or any other sporter cutouts. What I am saying is the receiver is obviously not made for a select fire 7.62x39 and if the idea is correct about how they import these incompletely assembled then it was never originally built into a rifle that would have needed to have the linkage holes. The Saiga M3 EXP 1 is semiauto also and never had linkage holes. They ship from the factory exactly as shown in the factory website photo.

This might be the actual way then. I checked my SGL 21 when I first got it for welding seams at the linkage holes and I can't seem to find a weld seam anywhere. If no linkage holes were ever there, then it couldn't have started out as a sporter. This method of import would make far more sense and require far less work.

Yes it will act as a heat sink. I doubt that will have any real effect on stiffening the barrel. It will introduce a pressure point which can become variable when the barrel heats up and expands. Variations of pressure on the barrel can change the point of impact. I saw a shotgun at a turkey shoot throw a pattern 6 to 8 inches higher because it was rested directly on the lower barrel half. The box o truth also tested this out in one of their episodes. Unless you absolutely need a mounted light or lazer, this mount is more trouble than it helps.

Boiling water on anything that has the salts. Removing the muzzle brake and gas tube is a good idea as stated. If it were me, I would do an initial flush through the barrel, gas tube, gas block, muzzle device, breach face area near the bolt, and then allow the removeable parts to soak briefly in a tub of hot water. Dry and then clean the carbon deposits as usual. Make sure the firing pin channel in the bolt is clean and dry. Water or oil in the channel is bad.

This and the fact that the hotter the water gets it dissolves salts at a faster rate. This thread has really been fun. The concept of leaving windex sitting in a barrel for hours with corrosive primers in the attempt to neutralize the salts may one day cease to exist as gun forums expose the truth about this.

Both WD40 and Hoppes are 90% or higher hydrocarbons according to their online MSDS WD 40 is cheaper for using it to simply preserve your barrel before cleaning. A quart of motor oil will do the same and is even cheaper at $2 to $3 a quart. Pesonally, I would get the motor oil. I have used break parts cleaner (careful with the outer rifle finish) to revove carbon fouling from barrels for years with perfect success. It is fairly cheap and works really well. I would use hot boiling water to remove salts if I were to shoot any corrosive ammo. Water is cheap as it gets. I use a foaming

It definitely acts more like a solvent. It displaces water so it would be great for preventing rust in the bore until the bore can be properly cleaned. I seen WD 40 dry into a hard shellac after a few months. This would not be a good lubricant.

I have got several unissued 30 rounders at that time for $8 from the same company and they were perfect. My biggest surprises were mags I bought from JoeKen firearms known for questionable deals. Bulgarian circle 10 30 round mags for $8 a piece and some mislabeled unissued steel Russian mags with the arrow symbol for about $8 or $9 each. I'm still in shock over these. I got 10 of these.