SaigaNoobie

I'd like to add that the mags work well. One thing i did personally, was unscrew the screws holding the two pieces of the mag body together, by ONE turn. I found that the extra slop in the middle of the mag body didn't cause any negative effects on the shell stacking or follower. I left the top screw alone so the feed lips would remain tight. The reason I did this: I found that federal would drag inside the mag ever so slightly... multiplied by 10-14 rounds and the follower didn't want to move very freely. Loosening the screws a turn relieved this issue and the followers pushed the shells

Plus i like the feel of the polymer better. I wish they had a Polymer version of the thumbhole stock. I'd use it

I actually put a polymer forearm on mine. I kept scratchin up the wood on trees and shit

I'd really like to see a new weapon design that wasn't $1300+ for civilian markets. New caliber. 6.5 or 6.8 just get it done. Chrome Lined Barrel. Short-Stroke piston. Chrome lined chamber. Chamber slightly OVERsized rather than so tight there are extraction issues. Bolt handle attached to bolt carrier. Direct Push magwell. Thumb safety/selector. Spring over/under/beside the bolt carrier,not behind it. Sheet-Metal Stamped Steel Receiver. I like the idea of lower and upper pieces. Stamped lower, stamped upper. How about some extra space in the rec

It looks like a G2 trigger group in it already.... no? So with 3part US mags, you should be fine. 14+1(pgrip)+1(Muzzle brake, if it's not US)= 16 -3 for Tapco G2 -3 for US Mags = 10 RIght?

Ok. First I center my Front sight Post for windage. THen I take it to the range and shoot. (50 yards is far enough to see if it's straight). If it shoots straight (Left-Right) I leave it alone. IF it's shooting one way or the other I move the FRONT SIGHT BLOCK left or right around the barrel until it shoots straight. I'd rather have a Front sight that was canted a bit to the left or right than a Front post that's not centered in the "ears". But that's just me. Once I'm satisfied with its location, I drill a small divot in the barrel where that "Hole" is in the bottom and use the shorte

Wait a cotton picking minute, you're a liar... That or we have very different ways of measuring Group Size & MOA. 1.400" - .308" = 1.092" Group Size Or 1.400" - .308" = 1.092" / 1.047"(actual MOA) = 1.042" or 1 MOA You're correct..... for 100 yards... that's a 200 yard group. MOA @ 200 yards is 2.084.

So I went to the range this morning. Sighted in my .308v21 with some Winchester Hunting Soft Points... 180gr maybe... idk they were loose in an ammo can. Only had 20. I had just put on my PSOP 6x scope to make my Poor-man's Dragunov... Sighted her in at 50, and went to the 200 yard range with my savage .270. Shot the savage and for some reason brought out the .308 Saiga to test her at 200..... Loaded 8rds and with a spotter, shot 4 and he tells me, looks like you're 6inches high because the shots were hitting the cardboard above the target, so instead of aiming at the center, I aimed at

Who got banned?

250fps of velocity is why I use the 22" over the 16"

Ray is a manufacturing Genius.

on 1, you may have issues with extracting 2 3/4" bird shot.

I pieced together an AR-15 for $450. So far, 400 rounds without a malfunction. Not a ton, but as an AK guy, I'm surprised my "Get whatever is the cheapest" attitude to building an AR actually resulted in something I have confidence in.

Unfortunately, 1-4s are more expensive than 3-9s from the same manufacturer. I would love a light 1-4 for my rifle but i don't have the budget.

apparently! Where do you shoot?

Where are you located 308saiga?

Oh god, something else i need now....

Just those bottom two pins. The one in the center holds the gas-setting pin in the gas block. I'd recommend getting a piece of brass/aluminum that will give you a large surface to beat on and then knocking the block off.

high carrier from modification and low hammer face, will cause this. Not the first one i've seen from people who take too much off the carrier.

don't use a pipe cutter to cut the barrel. you'll end up with a circular constriction around the muzzle. it's ugly and affects patterning.

Mine at 18.25 is Cyl.Bore. so I'd say, less than that! My 2001 is .615" diameter. I'd cut back a 1/4" at a time until I hit the proper constriction compared to a .615CB. IMHO

I have a spike's Lower. Everything is in the right position and it mates with my dpms upper nice and tightly. They seem to be a good value. ~SN

we have the correct pressure we need for the regulation, our spring are also specialty and are designed for a certain length, the pictures have all the same positions when its in which is at the shoulder. You probably are looking at one with one not in. yah I went back and noticed that. No worries. I have a 12ga just want to run it in a 20 for testin.