lammy

Nobody touched on the sig 556 A fair AR/AK mix. I'm getting ready to order one.

Now that I'm re reading the post, why would you need a dremel type tool for the conversion?

Two birds one stone! E clips are alright. They usually need to be adjusted before initial fitment. If I'm making a custom build, I'll use them. If it's more of an old school original type build, I'll use the wire spring. A flat screw driver is all you need to install and remove. Tilt the rifle sideways and push the clip on with the screwdriver.

I never made that proposition. I'm new to this site but it seems like a lot of people here are afraid to do their own work. Definately not including you! However now you have me thinking..... A little piece of fimo clay or even better some rubbery meltable material on a stick lightly pushed against the holes inside the barrel should give you a pretty good idea of the size and placement of the holes sans pressing out the block. Might be a good idea to put a bit of oil there first just in case.

And that's why historically rear trunnions are riveted on stamped receivers.

That's what I would expect, and that's fine. I'm thinking if we had someone with an 8" or 10" barreled 12ga that had a good working model, we could fill in the blanks with barrel sizes we don't have listed. For instance if we had sizes for both an 8 and 10, if someone wanted to do a 9" then it's probably a matter of calculating the "in between" size. I'm not sure if calculating between 8" and 19" at this point would be a good idea, but if we had a few people step up with their sizes, we could figure out the formula. Are extra barrels available?

Picture this: A chart that shows the ideal # of gas ports and the size of the holes for an 8" barrel, then the same for a 9", 10", 11" etc. Up to the largest available barrel...

I lucked out. I just got into these weapons a couple weeks ago and found a vendor online that had one left at $414. Deals are out there.

If you mount a kobra sight on a saiga 12 that has the halo handguard, does the front of the handguard get in the way of the line of sight for the kobra? Also are there any fitment issues with the two being so close together?

Normal AK trigger groups will work. (That's what you need to use anyway) If you are in the US, make sure you get a US made group. Single hook/ Double hook means 1, or 2 hooks that hold the hammer. If you look at the receiver of your Saiga where the trigger comes out, you will see a small cutout for the single hook that holds the hammer. Some people alter their receivers for double hook, some are made for it. I go with what's already there. I'll be doing a conversion soon and went with a G2 signle hook from DPH arms. Here is a link to a picture: http://www.redstararms.com/index.ht

"Isperming" Oh my! Southern Maine here. Hey Sua, What's it like getting some FN parts over there? I'm thinking of getting an FNC. hint hint.

Whatever paint you use that doesn't come in a spray, and if you don't want to spend the money on an airbrush setup, you can go to auto paint stores and get an aresol can that allows a bottle of whatever you want to be attached.

When doing a cold blue, if you warm the metal it will take to it 10 times better. Really depends on the metal but I have had cases where the blue took so-so, and when I tried it again with metal that was heated (in both cases with a hair dryer and hot water from the sink) It came out so much better.

Didn't you read the letter I posted? Originally the ATF put out you didn't need to, but then they changed their minds. Unless something's changed, if you make a SBR on a Form 1, you are the manufacturer. Oh I read it, and this is far from the first place I've seen it but did you read what I wrote? "There are a couple letters from the ATF floating around with conflicting information (surprise) but what is more important than their interpretation is the actual Form 1 itself, and it's included definitions because this is what you sign, and what they sign and approve" That letter,

They used to! I have a feeling the speed is governed by the click action of the switch itself, and not of the potentiometer. I think it's possible to make it work like you (and I) want it to.

If you already have a name on the lower, which you should, you don't need to put your name on it. The original maker is fine, as I explained above. One reason is if you engrave it with your name, now the ATF thinks there are two guns floating around that happen to have the same serial number. If you're not creating a gun, then you are modifying one.

If 922r applies to this weapon before adding 6+ mag, then there would already be US parts on it right? So I gather it's a sporting firearm if there is a mag with 5 or less rounds. If you have a higher cap mag, then it's non sporting and becomes more or less an assembled kit? My head hurts.

Not quite sure what you mean.... Has anyone removed the original saiga trunnion, and replaced it with the ACE, Tromix or other similar rear stock adapter (drilling the holes in it to rivet to the receiver, thus creating a new trunnion), instead of screwing it to the original saiga trunnion that had the tang cut off but left in the receiver?

Excuse my ignorance, as I'm comming from the AK rifle world, but why would you be non compliant with a mag over 5rnds?

Copied from dinzaq's post on this site: ( I googled a 922r list for ak's and his came up ) (parts on a factory config saiga are in bold) (1) Receiver (2) Barrels (3) Barrel extensions (4) Mounting blocks, trunnion (rifles only) (5) Muzzle attachments (shotguns w/ threaded barrels only) (6) Bolts (7) Bolt carriers (8) Operating rods (9) Gas pistons (10) Trigger housings (11) Triggers (12) Hammers (13) Sears (14) Disconnectors (15) Buttstock (16) Pistol grips (17) Forearms, handguards (18) Magazine bodies (19) Followers (20) Floorplates To make it easy

This is pretty much the only Saiga rail that has given me wood. http://www.halomfg.com/

When you cut the tang off, make sure the new receiver block is angled properly. If not, your stocks lines will not match that of the receiver. If you look at enough conversion pics you'll see what I mean. Has anyone actually removed the rear trunnion completely, and drilled out the new rear trunnion to fit and rivet in place? To be honest with you, comming from the builds I've seen and done before, the tang cutting/ bolting together thing seems kinda ghetto to me.

+ however many other said to go with cobalt. I get them at the harware stor for about $3 each. I have some spares because even the little ones break, but I have not really worn one out. A rule of thumb is to have a few spare of a couple sizes that you need: 7/ something and 5/ something (I don't know the size off hand) When drilling a rivet, I use a coarse file to flatten the rivet head, then a punch to make a good indent in the exact center (hit it a few times to make it deep) If your a little off that ok, just tap toward center. The I use the smaller bit, then the larger, and often

I believe Dremel actually makes the Craftsman versions. I had an older Dremel, and it crapped out on me. I picked up a newer one and didn't like the design of it. It just felt like a cheap piece of shit, so I returned it. My friend suggested we go to Sears to look at theirs, and sure enough I found the same type as the older Dremel brand one I had, except it was new, and a different color but that's it. Spend the extra and get the variable speed, corded version. The simple, non ergonomic one is the way to go. Good luck

just about anything is possible with enough time and a Bridgeport milling machine Southern by the grace of God "I...Shall Remain Confederate" Interesting idea, but looks like it would be a lot of work because the attach point is considerably larger on the G36 stock than the Saiga receiver. The Tromix stock is such a similar design that I would just get that and save the money.