mtjccmotel

I'd try to heat it up with a heat gun and see how much would wipe away.

How hard did you have to punch to get the pins out? I would guess you were not able to reuse the pins and retainer Not very hard, because it didn't take long to realize something was wrong, but it was one of those duh! moments... I wasn't concerned about the retaining wire because I had purchased the retaining plate and the pins were not damaged as I stopped beating on them before they were damaged.

Got to remember to remove the original retaining wire, it makes removing the pins much easier..learned that the hard way.

Check your case length, depending on how many times you have fired the brass it will stretch and eventually need to be trimmed. I have found that with the 308 depending on the type of brass it will sometimes stretch beyond the maximum length after firing once. On all my rifle cartridges, I will size then trim to proper length to ensure that the bolt will continue to lock properly. In addition to a case trimmer you should invest in a neck chamferring tool.

I second the idea of the Tapco G2 FCG, but be sure to read the safety issue thread that is tacked at the top of the 308 section. Depending on your ability to weld or know someone who will weld the trigger group or safety selector (after you read the safety thread you'll know what I'm writing about), you'll also need to profile your Tapco hammer to the profile of you're original hammer, this is easy to do but does require a lot of elbow grease and you need to have files on hand (grinder helps, but go slow it's easy to take off more then you want). The Tapco hammer has a lot more meat then you

Read the Safety Problem thread that is tacked at the top of the 308 section. On the 308 I had with the standard tapco fire control group I had to build up the tab on the safety lever so that it would engage the back right side of the trigger. The safety lever needed about 1/4" added so that it would engage the safety when the lever was selected in the safe position. The safety blocks the trigger from moving up and releasing the hammer when the safety is engaged. I built my safety up past what was required then filed it down to fit and engage properly. If I remember correctly the Safety Pr

+1 what Vorpal said! I have reloaded many rounds for my saiga 308 as long as it fits in the mag the gun doesn't care. Make sure to trim your cases before loading as the cases stretch the bolt will not fully close..

Here are a few pics of the new paint job.

The conversion is not a big deal, just grind or file the right side down by the width of the bolt hold open lever, take a little off at a time, check often via reinstall with BHO till it fits nicely. You'll also have to do some grinding on the hammer as well so that it doesn't strike the cross member support. I profiled my hammer via grinding and matching the original hammer. Just ground a little off at a time till worked properly, I didn't match it exact but I got it close. If I remember correctly the Tapco hammer is much heavier/meatier than the original hammer. Watch the top of the ham

Here is the stuff I was able to find, when I was looking into this. Hopefully these will help! OOPS! I just releazed you found that info... M14_mag_conv.pdf M_14_308_upgrade.pdf

I have a Lee Loadmaster and I like it. It can take a little tweeking to get things set up correctly, but once it is dialed in it runs like a champ.

I have a Lee Loadmaster and would definitely recommend bolting/screwing your bench to the wall. I sometimes reload with the single stage lee press on a very small movable bench that would wobble it was not much of an issue, but with the Lee Loadmaster turret press it needs to be mounted sturdy, solid, and square/level. They are great presses, but as with anything that has moving parts, the more moving parts you have the more things can get out of whack. What calibers are you planning on loading? On the strait walled pistol calibers I like to run it as the turret press (size, prime, ch

I would definitely be interested in an adaptor for G3 mags as they are cheap and available. With the way everything is going cost is becoming more of a factor.

I also use the Winchester 200 LR Primers with 42gn IMR4895 with some old Winchester 150gn silvertips (load works good for plinking). I have also loaded Hornady 165gn spirepoints on top of those loads. I found the flat base shot better than the boattails out of my 21" barrel. No scientific testing was done, just some plinking (don't read more into it).

i modifyied my mags M14 to fit my gun they feed fine and hold bolt open on last shot they hold it open not lock it back im very happy with my vepr II Would you share your experience in modifying the M14 mags? I would be interested in the process.

I choose to go with the following: David's Collectibles http:\\tickbitesupply.com/stocks.html RI-STK-ARBUTB : 1 : 12.99 RI-STK-AKSTKADAP : 1 : 14.99 RI-STK-AR156POS : 1 : 47.99 It was easy to install and I like the look, feel, and function. I removed the AR Buffer Spring & plug, less weight and noise. I also purchased the Sling Attachment Plate Double Attachment, but have changed back to the original that came with the six pos AR Stock. It looks better and has less things sticking out to catch on clothing/brush.

I have three of the 25 round Surefire Mags two of them work (most of the time), but one in particular has had multiple failure to feed. From what I can tell the cheap full metal jacket rounds I am using get hung up on the plastic feed lip. I am debating on either filing the feed lip at an angle to help keep the bullet tip from catching or looking into installing a metal feed ramp into the 308 and filing the feed lip on the mags down. I am holding off on making any changes to the mags or gun until I can shoot some other higher quality ammunition. I currently only have about 180 rounds throu

Here is my go at a S-308 21", hope you like! I appreciate all the information on the site; you are all great people who share your expertise with others freely.

I recently put in the G2 FCG and left the BHO lever in place, required some grinding on the hammer as well as profiling the hammer. No big deal there! I choose to weld up the safety lever then filed it to fit vs. the trigger. The safety lever seemed easier. The trigger feels much better than the original and there were no real problems getting everything to fit, just lots of filing and taking it nice and slow.