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Tbone1966

Need a top rail

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For my Saiga 12 I just bought. It’s been converted with everything. It has a UTG Pro MTU 002 rail system, but missing the top short and long rails and screws. I figure the past owner wanted to use the iron sites. He did not know where they are. Anyone know if I can purchase these anywhere?

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Dunno.  Can you take the mount to your local friendly hardware store and just cruise the bolt and fashioner hopper department and find out what exactly you have?  Diameter, length, pitch thread.  Metric or SAE?  Then purchase the appropriate screw or bolt and fab it to fit?  That is what we did.  Not exactly quick but fun and easy.

 

PS:  Is fashioner speellled correctly?  Don't look wright.  :)

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You can search "picatinny rail" and there are many sellers of them, you will find different lengths, different mounting hole patters etc.

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For my Saiga 12 I just bought. It’s been converted with everything. It has a UTG Pro MTU 002 rail system, but missing the top short and long rails and screws. I figure the past owner wanted to use the iron sites. He did not know where they are. Anyone know if I can purchase these anywhere?

 

That particular rail system is known for twanging like a diving board in the long cantilevered system. Also a significant, but not large number of people have found that the way it clamps onto the gun affects reliability. 

 

There's an old video from 50%tactical if he still has it up, where he was showing off his new S12 with the long mount and a red dot. (His gun is a lot better set up now) The main thing most of us saw in that video was the severity of the diving board effect on that chunk of rail hangning way over the dust cover.

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Many online retailers carry that brand and probably spare parts. The MTU002 is on page 40 of the current catalog.

But Ace Hardware or anyplace with good high-grade fasteners is probably your easiest step.

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Many online retailers carry that brand and probably spare parts. The MTU002 is on page 40 of the current catalog.

 

But Ace Hardware or anyplace with good high-grade fasteners is probably your easiest step.

Ace is the place.

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For my Saiga 12 I just bought. It’s been converted with everything. It has a UTG Pro MTU 002 rail system, but missing the top short and long rails and screws. I figure the past owner wanted to use the iron sites. He did not know where they are. Anyone know if I can purchase these anywhere?

That particular rail system is known for twanging like a diving board in the long cantilevered system. Also a significant, but not large number of people have found that the way it clamps onto the gun affects reliability.

 

There's an old video from 50%tactical if he still has it up, where he was showing off his new S12 with the long mount and a red dot. (His gun is a lot better set up now) The main thing most of us saw in that video was the severity of the diving board effect on that chunk of rail hangning way over the dust cover.

I have the long rail and can attest to movement. However i can still use my fixed irons with the rail on.

 

I messed up and used red loctite when i put mine together so kinda f'd on changing it, i moved my holosight forward.

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For my Saiga 12 I just bought. It’s been converted with everything. It has a UTG Pro MTU 002 rail system, but missing the top short and long rails and screws. I figure the past owner wanted to use the iron sites. He did not know where they are. Anyone know if I can purchase these anywhere?

That particular rail system is known for twanging like a diving board in the long cantilevered system. Also a significant, but not large number of people have found that the way it clamps onto the gun affects reliability.

 

There's an old video from 50%tactical if he still has it up, where he was showing off his new S12 with the long mount and a red dot. (His gun is a lot better set up now) The main thing most of us saw in that video was the severity of the diving board effect on that chunk of rail hangning way over the dust cover.

I have the long rail and can attest to movement. However i can still use my fixed irons with the rail on.

 

I messed up and used red loctite when i put mine together so kinda f'd on changing it, i moved my holosight forward.

 

You might try applying a little water to just one screw location for a couple of days in a row and see if that will compromise the bond. Water will break down some thread lockers. 

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Try a wart removal product to FREEZE screws a time or two, it should break the thread locker loose. Heat with a hair dryer or bake in the oven at 250 degrees, and then freeze the screws, if cold alone is not effective.

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I was going to suggest the exact opposite. Stick a soldering iron on each screw head.

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I would use heat first, but if it is STUCK then try whatever will cause a significant differential temperature without ruining the finish.

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Acetone will also breakdown locktite. Test an area first to see if the acetone removes the finish.

 

Heat will also breakdown the bond. Use a good Allen wrench (end of wrench isn't rounded-off) to loosen the screw as soon as you remove the soldering iron from the bolt head.

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Sometimes it helps to stone the Allen wrench flat on the end! Especially if the socket head of the screw is shallow, and the wrench is rounded on the end. Most wrenches are.  Cutting a piece off of an Allen wrench to use as a punch so you can give the screw a SHARP rap with a hammer can also help.

Never brutalize the screw, just fuck with it until it gives up!!!

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Thanks for all the info on removal. They are cheap screws and i did plan on heat since i did use actual loctite, i just didnt want to use a torch, never did think about solder iron.

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