Saiga Paint

[t-amzn 0]

I am going to attempt my first conversion and want to know what best paint matches original finish. Thanks--

[Nomad 0]

I am going to attempt my first conversion and want to know what best paint matches original finish. Thanks--

 

i'm wondering the same thing.

[hoop762 0]

there are a LOT of different options you can go with. This is the best one i have found, keeping in mind cost Very Low) and quality (Very Good)

 

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=10018

[dinzag 31]

I second hoop on that, that stuff works great. Very durable - best bang for the buck!

[juancho 0]

there are a LOT of different options you can go with. This is the best one i have found, keeping in mind cost Very Low) and quality (Very Good)

 

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=10018

 

 

I'll go with your choice, that's the best and chepest !!! but....could you please tell me more about the baking ???

[t-amzn 0]

I to am wondering about the bake, oh, and thanks for the info.

[BlenderWizard 12]

I to am wondering about the bake, oh, and thanks for the info.

 

I GunKoted mine in Matte black... it's in the WTS forum if you need a pic. It's tough as nails.

[DaGroaner 2]

I'd like to know about the bake as well. What temp? How long?

 

TIA

[dinzag 31]

I will find a can tonight & see. I got a couple around. I don't remember seeing anything off hand, but typically most engine enamels harden at room temperature. No need to oven cure. Overall it isn't as durable as Moly or K&G, but it's a 10th the price and more than most people will ever need. K&G GunKote takes an hour at 300 degrees. I think DuraKote will harden over a period of time, but will cure at 180 in an hour or two.

 

For me - I used my handy-dandy grill at 300 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes. When I did my AKS-12 with it, I did 1/2 of it at a time as my grill isn't that long. If you do intend to use heat to bake it on, make sure you preheat the part(s) before hand to bring any greases or oils to the surface & remove. That way it doesn't happen after you apply the paint.

[dinzag 31]

Checked out the can - nothing about baking. 10 minutes between coats; dry to touch in an hour (usually less); allow 7 days to fully cure. Impervious to gasoline, oils, etc...good stuff!

 

I always heat anything metal or plastic I'm painting to help avoid drips or runs and to speed up drying.

[Nomad 0]

Just used the Dupli-Color 1634 and what a match! Easy application and hopefully durable. $5.00 at autozone--walmart did not have it.

 

I think i'll paint my other A.K's with it.

 

Good product!

[headshot 52]

What is the best way to strip the paint off the saiga?

 

How much disassembly of the gun is necessary to repaint it?

 

Also, what is the best thing to use to fill the lettering? I have some white and red engravers wax, and I'm wondering if that'll do.

Edited May 3, 2006 by headshot

[kresk 10,063]

What is the best way to strip the paint off the saiga?

 

How much disassembly of the gun is necessary to repaint it?

 

Also, what is the best thing to use to fill the lettering? I have some white and red engravers wax, and I'm wondering if that'll do.

White crayon can be used to fill the letters and the excess removed with lighter fluid; or Whiteout and use acetone to remove excess and use fine point magic marker for the red "fire" position.

[O.S.O.K. 0]

The can of Dupli-Color High Heat that I have recommends that for "maximum hard, heat resistance, cure at 300 degrees ferenheight for 2 hours or 400 degrees for 1 1/2 hours."

 

I haven't used this yet, but have read many posts from those that have and everybody recommends baking. This goes for regular and high heat varieties.

 

They also recommend complete disassembly (remove all furniture, fcg, etc.) and clean with a good degreaser like purple power or just dishwasher detergent/hot water and after drying, finish with acetone or something to get the best prep for application.

 

Will look just like standard Saiga or Bulgarian finish when done.

 

FWIIW

[headshot 52]

The can of Dupli-Color High Heat that I have recommends that for "maximum hard, heat resistance, cure at 300 degrees ferenheight for 2 hours or 400 degrees for 1 1/2 hours."

 

I haven't used this yet, but have read many posts from those that have and everybody recommends baking. This goes for regular and high heat varieties.

 

They also recommend complete disassembly (remove all furniture, fcg, etc.) and clean with a good degreaser like purple power or just dishwasher detergent/hot water and after drying, finish with acetone or something to get the best prep for application.

 

Will look just like standard Saiga or Bulgarian finish when done.

 

FWIIW

 

 

Can you paint over the existing paint, or do you need to strip it?

 

What is the best method to strip the old finish?

[Nomad 0]

The can of Dupli-Color High Heat that I have recommends that for "maximum hard, heat resistance, cure at 300 degrees ferenheight for 2 hours or 400 degrees for 1 1/2 hours."

 

I haven't used this yet, but have read many posts from those that have and everybody recommends baking. This goes for regular and high heat varieties.

 

They also recommend complete disassembly (remove all furniture, fcg, etc.) and clean with a good degreaser like purple power or just dishwasher detergent/hot water and after drying, finish with acetone or something to get the best prep for application.

 

Will look just like standard Saiga or Bulgarian finish when done.

 

FWIIW

 

 

Can you paint over the existing paint, or do you need to strip it?

 

What is the best method to strip the old finish?

 

 

 

 

No, you do not have to strip it. Fine steal wool it, blow it off, clean with contact cleaner, or carb cleaner. This is a quick and thorough procedure.

 

As for the baking--you can. But remember the manufacterer does testing and following THEIR instructions is more than sufficient. If they recomend baking it may be for HEAT resistance. Dupli-color 1634 says room temperature curing is 7 days.

 

This paint is an engine paint, tough, and durarble as is. NO need to do more than you have to unless you want to.

Edited May 3, 2006 by Nomad

[O.S.O.K. 0]

The can of Dupli-Color High Heat that I have recommends that for "maximum hard, heat resistance, cure at 300 degrees ferenheight for 2 hours or 400 degrees for 1 1/2 hours."

 

I haven't used this yet, but have read many posts from those that have and everybody recommends baking. This goes for regular and high heat varieties.

 

They also recommend complete disassembly (remove all furniture, fcg, etc.) and clean with a good degreaser like purple power or just dishwasher detergent/hot water and after drying, finish with acetone or something to get the best prep for application.

 

Will look just like standard Saiga or Bulgarian finish when done.

 

FWIIW

 

 

Can you paint over the existing paint, or do you need to strip it?

 

What is the best method to strip the old finish?

 

 

 

 

No, you do not have to strip it. Fine steal wool it, blow it off, clean with contact cleaner, or carb cleaner. This is a quick and thorough procedure.

 

As for the baking--you can. But remember the manufacterer does testing and following THEIR instructions is more than sufficient. If they recomend baking it may be for HEAT resistance. Dupli-color 1634 says room temperature curing is 7 days.

 

This paint is an engine paint, tough, and durarble as is. NO need to do more than you have to unless you want to.

 

I agree on the steel wool and in fact, the instructions recommend sanding or otherwise roughing up the existing finish.

 

As mentioned, this is engine paint - and engines get HOT - and therefore, no baking is required - the engine will bake the finish during normal operation. However, the rifle's barrel is the only part that gets significantly hot enough, so for a uniform finish, I am planning on baking mine.

 

Again, I am just going by the directions on the can, my own "logic" and from posts that I've read about doing this...

[Nomad 0]

 

I agree on the steel wool and in fact, the instructions recommend sanding or otherwise roughing up the existing finish.

 

As mentioned, this is engine paint - and engines get HOT - and therefore, no baking is required - the engine will bake the finish during normal operation. However, the rifle's barrel is the only part that gets significantly hot enough, so for a uniform finish, I am planning on baking mine.

 

Again, I am just going by the directions on the can, my own "logic" and from posts that I've read about doing this...

 

 

So the 1634 does require baking on the can? I think when engines are painted they are usually on a engine stand. I think curing would take place while on it.

 

But hey! If one can bake--why not!

[O.S.O.K. 0]

So the 1634 does require baking on the can? I think when engines are painted they are usually on a engine stand. I think curing would take place while on it.

 

But hey! If one can bake--why not!

 

 

Not required- just an option. And yeah, I figure, why not?

[Nomad 0]

Paint applied!!! It's hard to make this stuff run!!!! The barrel past the gas block was previously painted. I had a make shift back stop for the spray.

 

 

 

Edited May 4, 2006 by Nomad

[O.S.O.K. 0]

Can't wait to get mine to that point!

[vulcan762 0]

I have found that it is easier to simply touch up the bottom of the receiver than re-coat the whole rifle. After a conversion from old stock to a pistol grip you have un-painted metal behind the mag release to the rear of the receiver. I use Duplicolor High Heat black. (somebody remind me to verify the exact product as its in the garage)

 

The trick is how you apply the paint.

 

A.) make sure the area is clean. Wipe the parts to be painted with MEK or Acetone (same stuff but MEK evaporates slower)

 

B.) Then tape/mask off the areas that will not be painted. Run your tape right along the edge/corner of the receiver fold where the factory paint ends. Allow about 1/16" of your new coating to overlap the factory paint.

 

C.) Grab your wifes hair dryer and heat the area to be painted.

 

D. Spray your paint from a distance of about 16"-24". The distance gives your paint time to dry a little before it hits the metal surface. This will give you a powder coat look that matches the factory so well you cant tell the difference.

 

I have done several this way and the coating is durable (as durable as factory) and looks great.

[O.S.O.K. 0]

great info - thanks! I especially like the powder-coat technique...

[Unknown Poster 5]

I have used Brownells Aluma-Hyde II on my french 49/56 in gray park color to touch up the wornoff park finish and after washing the metal so its clean and free from oils and going lightly with 0000 steelwool i heated the metal with a hair dryer and applied the aluma-hyde II and its epoxy paint and holds up just as good as any other stuff if not better. It comes in all kinds of gun colors too. I think they have a black park too.