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Dented 308 brass - solutions??


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I've recently taken to reloading most of my ammo, and am using pulled military bullets. My cost is running less than the steel cased stuff, and accuracy is better. I also have a 308 bolt gun and an H&R single shot that don't do well with the steel stuff, so I'm wanting to stay the course with brass.

 

However, it's becomming apparent that the dented cases will lower the overall case life of my ammo. I'd heard long ago that someone made a small rubber part that fit over the receiver cover preventing the ding, or at least eliminating the small cut in the brass caused by the slap on the receiver cover. Does anyone know where I can find one of these? Are there any other solutions to this problem when running brass?

 

I'd think there could be some other creative solutions, everything from rubber bands to pocket protectors are swimming in my head. Put me out of my misery and give me some valid thoughts. Thanks...

 

B&aQQSt

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over in FAL-land there are a number of threads on tuning the fixed ejector (just like the AK's ejector) so that the ejected brass flies where you want it. tuning means modifying the lateral angle of the ejector and also modifying its pitch.

 

i think the brass has too much spin but im not sure. i cant figure out where its hitting for sure. once i do im thinking of doing the mods. if i mess up then ill have to weld a bead back onto the ejector and refile.

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I just reload them,the ding is unsightly but harmless.The resizing die irons most of it out but not all.I have some LC brass that I have loaded 5 times and is still fine-all shot in the saiga.

 

Bossman how many times would you say you can safely reload the dinged brass? With the price of ammo I am looking to reload myself but have zero experience with it. It would seem to me that the dents would cause variations in powder (grains, weight, or whatever the proper term is).

 

Although I did see your groups from an earlier post and they are pretty good so would you say the differences are negligible for the distances you are shooting?

 

BTW the outdoor range I am joining this summer has a 600yd line. I'd really like to see if I can pull off a body shot with iron sights at that distance.

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If one of the dinged areas gets hit in the same place time after time it may cause a problem but it hasnt happened to me yet.

I really dont think the difference in volume is worth a second thought,when they are new they are all the same and when they are dinged they are all the same so point of impact will be similar,that amount of volume is miniscule anyway,probably more variance in volume from the factory anyway.To check my brass I make a tool from a paper clip,looks like the letter "L" with the short end sharpened,stick it in a case and try to feel a dip inside the case wall just above the case head,if you do then case head seperation is imminent,throw that case away,in the garbage-dont leave it at the range for some unknowing brass scrounger to pick up and reload once too many.........

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You might be able to modify an HK 91 to work, I'm not sure.

 

The 91 unit wraps up over the top of the receiver. You would probably have to cut that piece off and weld

another piece on the back side to slide under the AK top cover.

 

Tony

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I wouldn't worry about the looks - autoloaders are generally hard on brass anyway and the dent is the least of your worries.

 

Oh, and good for you for reloading - we all should handload/reload - I've been at it for over 15 years now.

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Considering the big price increase in 7.62x39, Im getting a 223. With the cheap bullets and brass available its well worth it. You can probably tune the ammo to a Saiga and get good accuracy. Also if you use a soft point bullet its very effective for combat.

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  • 1 year later...
over in FAL-land there are a number of threads on tuning the fixed ejector (just like the AK's ejector) so that the ejected brass flies where you want it. tuning means modifying the lateral angle of the ejector and also modifying its pitch.

 

i think the brass has too much spin but im not sure. i cant figure out where its hitting for sure. once i do im thinking of doing the mods. if i mess up then ill have to weld a bead back onto the ejector and refile.

 

I was thinking the same thing, my thoughts are if you file a little and make the tang slant inboard slightly (or at least angle the first part of the outside tang then transition into flat. It should cause the case to remain forward facing longer and lessen the amount and violence of outward rotation and 'whiplash' which SHOULD greatly reduce the damage to the case in theory at least.

I mean to me the fact that some guns seem to almost fold the rounds in half while others barely dented them tells me that there is allot of room to play with before it would effect things. Just my thoughts though, SO EVERYONE please put in your 2cents on this, cause it is a huge pain to add back metal to the tang if some one (maybe me) F's it up.

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