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Cleaning and lubricating


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I am just curious after I clean my Saiga. Whats the best lube to use and where to get it. Also Im wondering do i put grease on the gas piston? I noticed that it is dry right now. I dont want to get oil in there and plug something up. Ive read that Moly grease is good. Where do I get that?

 

 

Also I just wanted to say I just got my 2 factory 30rnd clips from Ramsey sports in the mail today. They are great. Tight fit and great quality. Cant wait to go shooting again and try them out :killer::rolleyes:

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I am just curious after I clean my Saiga. Whats the best lube to use and where to get it. Also Im wondering do i put grease on the gas piston? I noticed that it is dry right now. I dont want to get oil in there and plug something up. Ive read that Moly grease is good. Where do I get that?

You are not supposed to grease or other wise lube the piston...just clean it.

 

I've used Breakfree CLP over the years for my auto weapon lube -it has done well.

 

Actually, there is not much wrong wit husing ATF (for oil) & petro jelly (for a grease).

 

IMHO, people make too much of the "right" lubes. I mean, like damn! It's a AK...not some lame barely working design!

 

Lollygagger ;)

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I use PB to clean all my firearms with, then I use a light machine oil on everything from springs, triggergroup parts, to the exterior. 3 in 1 works good, as do a number of thin oils.

 

I never oil my gas pistons, as I figure they would have a massive powder residue buildup if I did. Once in a while, I will wash out the gas tubes with PB, and then put a TINY bit of oil in them just to help protect the metal, but not to lube the part.

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Grease or 3in1 oil are not high temp. high shear lubes! A Qt. of synthetic motor oil is a 10 year supply of excellent lube! It is high temp , extreme shear strength and non oxidizing - good stuff! It even floats dirt and chemical residue out of the pores of the metal.

G O B

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Not lubing the gas system is totally BS. If you choose to let it run dry is up to you. I've owned my very first Chinese norinco sks since the beginning of when they were first imported here and its been lubed with moly since it was brand new and shows no sign of wear yet at all. If you look at some of the yugo sks's that were imported here with gas system problems because of worn pistons and tubes whats that tell us?? My saiga gets moly inside the reciever, on the bolt carrier, on the bolt and on the gas piston too. Plus on the sear too it smooths out the trigger too just like an expensive trigger job too. Nothing is allowed to actually run dry its your choice if your going to replace it sooner or hock it when it doesn't function anymore. Moly can take the heat, stays were you put it, stays wet during long storage so its ready to rock n roll at anytime and isn't tempature sensitive too. How long your saiga will last is up to you but all my guns have moly in them wether its bolt actions, pistols, revolvers and semi auto rifles it reduces all friction, all wear and galling and moly works into the small pores of the metal and actually wears against itself there is no metal to metal contact plus it doesn't attract dirt. Now its up to you what lube you use!!!! Oil is for bores its not a good enough lube for semi auto's. None of my guns will wearout in my lifetime!!!

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I've gotten my 7.62X39 up to 30,000 and had to replace some worn stuff. the rated life span of an ak (told by Shiek) is supposibly 40,000. but easily enough, the parts are readily available, and if I had to use a dead man's ak as parts - it's just no problem. ok maybe somebody elses broken ak I got for cheap!(sounded tuff though didn't it).

 

trigger

extractor (eea charged $20 bucks, bastards!!!)

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The premium blend of moly anti seize costs $20 at McMaster Carr Industrial Supply on the net. I've used moly since the boys at dow corning developed it and tested it. I've used the moly paste and the premium blend of anti-seize and both are pretty close to the same thing. I used it in racing engines that had high lift camshafts with tripple valve springs that were prone to fail early because of extreme pressure and the moly extended the life plus helped the break in wear problem too. I felt if it worked in that situation it will work anywhere. Thats what comes in the engine kits now as assembly pre lube and camshaft kits as assembly pre lube too its "moly". You can feel the difference in the action the minute you try it, there is no drag like you get with using oil. Just try it on the trigger sear too it will lighten the trigger pull by 50% right away and more as it works in too. My guns won't leave home without it

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UKP-Molly is great stuff, but 5W30 synthetic oil works good too! Any quality lube is better than no lube! Good lube only requires a miminal film to protect, crap is crap and more is just more crap!

 

G O B

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Ive been putting white lithium on my trigger parts lately, as its what I have availible. seems to work good.

 

GOB: Ill try the motor oil in place of the 3 in 1, but I am relatively sure I will have to reoil after every session anyway. I smoke the oil right off the gun, usually on my AK. I have it for high volume firing. I detect no wear inside my extttra lightly lubed Ultimak rail after i dont know....2000 rounds? I dont like the powder buildup associated with extra lube. If there is something out there that wont burn up and will work well with a light coating, tell me what it is. Also, I sprayed the rails on my AK with white lithium when I cleaned it last. havent fired it yet, but the action felt a lot better than just oiling it. Im thinking of just using white lith from now on the non-heatstressed parts. try some on your trigger group if you dont have any moly around.....it lasts a LONG time.

 

I should get some moly and try that and see what Unknown is talking about. never tried it.

Edited by Bvamp
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My brother sells industrial chemicals. He sent me a sample years ago and I never used it except to lube drill presses, vices, and such.

 

godawful expensive and only sold in case lots, I'm afraid. The lable reads:

Logix dry moly lubricant

Vision Laboratories, Inc.

PMB 282

4347 Northwest Highway-120

Dallas, TX 75220

 

[edit] I found a web site: http://www.logix-mrop.com/

Edited by Smiley_Guy
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Her's one about bore claning.

 

Has anyone used an electric bore cleaner on their Saiga? or is it bad for the chrome lining? The electric cleaner has a steel rod in the barrel surrounded by a mixture of 2 parts water, 1 part ammonia, and 1 part vinegar.

 

I did this on my M48 and was stunned by the amount of crap pulled out of the bore, I actually have some rifleing now :up:

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